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Old 08-24-2010, 03:34 PM   #11
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This has been brought up several times but I thought I'd show you my version that I made b4 our last trip. It's made out of 1" X 1" angle from Lowe's cut, bent and welded to 2 - 45 degree angles and 1 - 90. The plate is Stainless Steel .060" thick liberated from a outside conveyor belt motor cover that we dismantled at a friends house. (Anybody need a 3HP reversible electric motor w/ controls and gear head?) I bolted the front to the support behind the wheel and the rear was bolted to the frame on the inside, after it had been drilled and tapped, and the torsion bar plate on the outside. Bolts are all SS and nuts are all SS Nylock.

I was a bit concerned over the ground clearance but, after 3300+ miles, there is no sign that it had dragged. Even going thru the construction in Chicago with their numerous tank traps.

Hope it never gets tested but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
Anyone figure out how to build one without the use of a welder?

I do not have a welder and the last time I welded was as an engineering student. I took a stick welding class 30 years ago.

The only other option is to hire someone to fabricate one, including the design.
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Old 08-24-2010, 03:40 PM   #12
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I'm a terrible electric welder but do fair with a gas outfit. Borrowed a buddies for this job.

There is stuff we called Dexion that is available at Lowe's. Angle with many holes you can use like an old erector set. Should be tough enough to act as the frame for your "deflector".
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Old 08-24-2010, 04:19 PM   #13
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Anyone figure out how to build one without the use of a welder?
Mine was not welded, but it I did have a shop cut and bend it.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=10254

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Old 08-24-2010, 04:42 PM   #14
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A friend of mine has a break in his garage. I think it i wide enough.

He even has a CNC machine, but I don't know how to use that. They didn't teach that in 1974.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:10 PM   #15
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This one inspired me.

I'm not feeling well right now but when I do, I plan to build a similar one. It looks clean and easy.

I will go with a 6" radius bend on the lower corners in hopes of making a cleaner flow for the offending material.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:15 AM   #16
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Protectors aren't just a good idea for blowouts - I backed into a campsite last year where the railroad tie tire stop had been knocked up at an angle and I crunched my grey water plumbing. Fortunately there was a hardware store not far away and I picked up one of those flexible black rubber couplings that incompetent plumbers (like myself) use to connect PVC which doesn't quite meet. That got me through the weekend with only a slow drip at the junction with the tank which I had repaired at the local RV dealer.

I know that our Owner's Pages aren't supported by the factory but am certain that someone at the factory checks the site daily. The factory should commision a protector and offer it as an accessory (or option on a new TM). I'm sure that they could work out a deal which would be cheaper than for each of us to fabricate our own. My reccomendation is one similar to that fabricated by Dave (ShrimpBurrito). As always, thanks for letting me vent! - camp2canoe
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:06 PM   #17
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I would not want it to impede my ability to cross dry creek beds.

As long as the approach is even side to side and no "speed bumps" then the first thing to hit in the rear is the factory hitch receiver.

Actually, the rear hitch receiver can carve a trench in the dirt and rock about 2 inches without the plumbing hitting the ground. I'm not sure how much more I can drag the hitch receiver.

I am still interested. But, it would have to be designed to be as small as possible to just barely clear the plumbing and therefore relatively strong so it does not collapse on impact.
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:57 PM   #18
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Good to see you back on the board. Was begining to wonder what happened to you! Get better soon!
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:30 PM   #19
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Any thoughts on using gas pipes (black iron piping) to bild a bar or cage around the plumbing vs a cage?
not 100% coverage,but easier to mount and would protect in most situations I'd guess.
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:33 PM   #20
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Any thoughts on using gas pipes (black iron piping) to bild a bar or cage around the plumbing vs a cage?
not 100% coverage,but easier to mount and would protect in most situations I'd guess.
The only thought that I have is that it would be a lot of work cutting, bending & welding all that pipe..
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