Atwood A/C installation took 1 and 1/2 hours - Page 2

[email protected] · 07-18-2016, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davlin

Probably this one?

that looks just like the sticker on the top of my unit...do you have an Atwood 15K Dave?
Tom

Padgett · 07-18-2016, 06:34 PM

Ayup. Looks like about 14.4 running amps and 63 LRA (locked rotor amps - what it would pull without a start cap). Probably needs about 40A of 120vac for 200 ms to start. Soft start would cut the turn on to about 20A for a second.

BrucePerens · 07-18-2016, 06:53 PM

It looks like a conventional compressor, then. It so, it would work with a soft-start. We can see better once Tom puts up his schematic.

There's still some room for improvement in RV air conditioning, it appears. The air conditioner for the Prius is two-rate - it doesn't have to run full-bore all of the time - and it uses the ejector cycle to recover energy from decompression.

Nor would I mind seeing that sort of tech in the next version of the Danfoss compressor used in the Dometic CR-1110 electric 'fridge.

Shane826 · 08-15-2016, 09:40 AM

Now that you've had the Atwood a while, any further thoughts on it? How tall is the Atwood vs the Coleman it replaced? I have barely a couple inches to spare going in the garage... Does your Atwood have the "arctic blast" where you can direct a cold blast of air straight down to cool a person quickly? Thanks, Tom!

mmayville · 10-06-2016, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padgett

Ayup. Looks like about 14.4 running amps and 63 LRA (locked rotor amps - what it would pull without a start cap). Probably needs about 40A of 120vac for 200 ms to start. Soft start would cut the turn on to about 20A for a second.

Hi Dave,
I dropped my TM off yesterday for the RV repair center to work on it. I told them to replace my Coleman A/C with the Atwood 15K. I know I can probably look it up but what is the Model number? I want to email it to them and if there are any additional tweaks they need to make to the mounting space to put the A/C in? They are replacing the awning, a/c, and repairing the passenger front side of my TM. So will have pics of the repair when my unit is complete.
Thanks

Mike

grubbyjeans · 02-23-2017, 05:46 PM

Just finished installing my Atwood. I'm working the pics now and will have them posted here tomorrow. The install went very smoothly with a couple of small caveats. I'll explain with the pics.

I took the trailer out last week and disconnected all inside. Took the trailer down and swapped the units inside the garage. A neighbor helped me take the Coleman down and place the Atwood on the roof. I had to dodge a rainy spell. Once the unit was outside I dropped the Atwood in place without assistance.

Set the trailer up and completed the install today. I'm really impressed with the Atwood. It cooled the rig from around 90 to 74 in a very short time. It is quiet enough that my wife and could carry on a conversation at normal volume.

More later....

Later:
To begin, if you store your TM in a residential garage, you MUST HAVE 83" clearance in your door. This unit, cover installed, is 14" so it is 2~3 inches taller than the Coleman unit. I was aware of this before I ordered my Atwood. I resolved the height issue by removing a 30" section from the header jam (not the header) of my garage door. I mitered it so the cuts would run away from the front /---------\. I attached the plug with two deck screws and it only takes a few seconds to remove the plug when moving the TM in or out. I also raised the up limit on my garage door opener.

The install sequence needs to be altered as the duct location is of major importance. If it is not correctly placed, you cannot install the plenum in the recess. Locate and attach the duct first. That will give you the location for the mounting bolts. Once they are installed, everything is per manual instructions.

I only have one issue with this install. Drilling holes for the mounting bolts compromises the barrier that is formed in the top of the ac platform. While this shouldn't be a problem, seals do fail. All the bolt holes are inside the seal and a failure of the sealant around the bolts would cause a problem with any system. A failure of the seal under the unit wouldn't likely leak inside because of the lip formed in the top of the a/c platform. Having to drill four, rather large holes outside that barrier didn't excite me much. Should I have a leak in the future, I'll remove the plenum and inject automotive windshield sealer in the gap between the pan and the platform, around the screws. I've used Permatex® Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer for years and have had very good results. Its advantage is that it flows into spaces before the curing process begins. It is very good.

grubbyjeans · 02-24-2017, 04:48 PM

Pix uploaded - bump to the top

Shane826 · 02-24-2017, 06:06 PM

Shoot I'm gonna have to rethink this mod. My garage door is 84". That's awful close.

grubbyjeans · 02-24-2017, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane826

Shoot I'm gonna have to rethink this mod. My garage door is 84". That's awful close.

If you have 84" door opening you should be clear. With the plug removed from my door opening, I have 83". I pulled my trailer out before attaching the a/c which means it was sitting 1/2" or so high. I had just over an inch to spare when I pulled the TM out.

mmayville · 03-24-2017, 08:00 AM

Finally got my TM into the Dealer to get the new Atwood Command A/C installed. Mine has the ducked cover on the inside of the unit. The filter slides out of the front of the unit. Air flow is forced downward and to the left and right from the vents in the rear. Temps are going to be high enough today for me to check the heat pump. Ambient temps have been way below 45 degrees since I brought it home. They did a nice job on the install and the IR panel is mounted in the front just underneath the cabinets. Will upload pics this weekend. And it is soooooooooo quiet.