TM factory to automate rise/lower function

Originally Posted by Bill

I wasn't as clear as I hoped. A lightweight drill will set the jack pad firmly. In fact, if needed, it will raise the TM perhaps half an inch - but not more. You would need a heavyweight drill only if you haven't levelled the TM, and have to lift the entire TM using the jacks.

Others of us don't pre-level, preferring to use the jacks to lift the TM into level position. If you are in this group, that's fine. To each his own.
Bill

Ok, now is the time for you wise folks to settle a disagreement . What impact, if any, is there on the TM frame if the leveling jacks are actually used to level the TM instead of just using them as stabilizers? The co-owner of my trailer believes that there can/will be torque on the frame by using the jacks as levelers and that this torque will weaken or perhaps even twist the frame.

Thoughts? Experiences?

Thanks!

Thanks Bill for the clarification and further insight. As you know, more often than not, all sites are not level. Additionally, for traveling, the jacks are usually cranked up into a closed position against the under carriage. As a result, when situated at resting point, one then has to unscrew the jacks down to the support footings; which in itself constitutes several 'hundred' turns of the drill ... or the hand crank ... just to get ready to complete the final levelling process; which now becomes the 'heavy lifting' part.

While I readily admit the small hand drill part about putting the jacks down into the raising condition is OK, and have used it at this end, my comment about having to then change to the hand crank remains; unless of course one has a heavy duty stout drill; which most of us may not because of the space, size, cost, etc.

Thus my suggestion of an optional addition; that being automated leveling jacks powered by small 12vdc motors mounted at the jack's location; controllable by a weather proof button box mounted on the undercarriage in line with the wheels.

In the case of these 12 vdc motors 'eating' up battery power, that could easily be addressed by connecting back up to the Bargman connection on TV and starting it up temporarily until the process is complete. Of course in a park area, with power, that would not apply.

You may use the jacks to level!!! I would try to lift within reason and try to level the whole unit not just one point at a time (design to give you less work) but the frame is very strong and each jack can lift 5000#. The trailer frame is not like a car frame in that it is steel welded to other steel, not bolted as in some cars and trucks, it is not designed to "give" as all light trucks and cars are (by law).

In short, Crank that sucker up!

[Bill]

Sally -

There has been a LOT of discussion on this board about use of the jacks as jacks, vs stabilizers. A quick search on "stabilizer" will find most of it. The universal conclusion is just as Windy stated it - the jacks are indeed jacks, and are plenty strong to lift the TM bodily off the ground. Go for it!

The only remaining question is whether it is easier to pre-level the trailer by pulling it onto boards or Leggoblocks as Leon describes, or to simply park the TM at whatever angle the site presents, and then muscle it into level position using the jacks.

We will never come to universal agreement on that last question - and fortunately it doesn't matter! Both approaches are good. Like Leon, I don't like heavy lifting, so I use boards - no heavy lifting is ever involved. But other folks don't like the fussiness of prelevelling, so they opt for the muscle approach. Whichever floats your boat, as they say.

Bill

[Denny_A]

in the archives. I'm not real keen on searching for it.

The method I use, and have since reading the procedure, is as follows: Perform the leveling operation with 3 jacks first, then lower the fourth jack. That way, leveling is similar to ballancing a triangle on the horizontal plane. The final jack stabilizes the frame without introducing an undetectable twisting moment on the frame.

If jacks at opposite corners were inadvertantly doing all the the heavy lifting, and the other two, at the other opposite corners were only stabilizing, the twisting moment can (could) create misalignment and possible damage.

Anyone ever notice that sometimes the split door opens and closes normally, and other times the upper half will become disengaged when even the slightest downward pressure is applied to the door handle. I've found that almost always happens when overnighting and the WDH remains connected. I can only hypothesize that the bending moment on the frame affects the stabilization effort by creating a bit of a twist in the frame. I also used to experience the same problem after normal setup... but only prior to using 3-corner stabilizing. So, I think there is someting to it.

As others have noted, I also level (when I had a trailer ) side to side with Levelor blocks to minimize the magnitude of force needed to achieve the scissors jack leveling. Then, level with the tongue jack. Finally use 2 jacks to level the low side first, then use the third jack on the opposite side to fine tune. Once it's perfect, I drop the 4th jack.

HTH
Denny(gettin' by on lite beer now)_A