Safety chain strength ratings

[Brittany Dogs]

Oh and both of them said it is a crap shoot on whether their staff puts the chains on crossing under the tongue or not.

Interesting. My uncle-in-law just told me that New York State Troopers want to see the chains crossed and might be more forgiving about things if they pull you over for something. Otherwise they might go the other way and be a little more ticket-happy if they see chains not crossed.

With the new cable type safety "chains" that TrailManor is now installing, I always just did the straight across method. But now I might be inclined to cross the cables just in case I get pulled over for some reason.

I don't have the mechanical engineering degree to do the calculation and for that matter, the variables are many, but I bet the strain on the cables or chains is much less than one might expect given the trailer is most likely moving about the same speed as the TV if all hell breaks loose.

I was surprised to see the TM ends of my safety cable attached to the same bolts that hold the tongue jack on. It doesn't look like a strong attachment point to me.....where are others attached at? Do I need to drill some holes and get me some grade 8 bolts? Thanks

In Pennsylvania it is state law that you must cross your safety chains. And I hear state troopers are real sticklers about it.
I agree you don't want it bouncing around behind you,but neither do you want it taking off and plowing into some one and well, it could get pretty ugly...

I always cross my chains. Just smart practice. Something, and I hate to say it but, my father-in-law taught me to do. Have even pointed out to friends to make it a habit.

If you forget to lock down the tongue hitch, and it bounces off the ball hitch, the crossed chains are to keep the tongue from digging in to the pavement/ground. I was in a hurry to break camp with our pop-up and it came loose while going up a steep hill. It is a little tricky to get-it-together then. I wasn't a newbie at towing boats and campers with over 30 years experience, but I still messed up.

[Mr. Adventure]

Originally Posted by clown9644

I know someone has the answer on the forum, I could not find it.

I was installing my new WDH when I realized my safety cable was too short to reach their latching place on the truck. In doing my research I found that these cables, and all other class 3 safety cables I came across are rated for 5000 lbs. and I could not find any that were more than the 48" ones I have. So I went to Tractor Supply and was going to buy some chain make my own. I discovered that any of the chain they sell only has a rating of 750 lbs. unless you get one of the VERY big links. For example, I have a small spool of 1/16" steel cable that's labeled "breaking strength" 1600#, safe working load: 400#" (I've tested both of these numbers and found them pretty accurate, but that was a different adventure).

Questions: What can possibly be the difference between the chains or cables used to make 5000 lb rated safety chains over what chains Tractor Supply sells?
Where can I find chain rated at this higher value?
Does it really matter?

I am going to Niagara with my old hitch till I figure out an answer or maybe Ed can tell me what to do. Hmmm, maybe take it all with me.

The mystery is probably that the chain was labeled 750# for it's safe working load, which would make it's breaking strength several times that amount (for ropes and cables, I think the safe working load is typically 1/4 of the breaking strength).

Oregon's rules for this were easy to find on the Internet:

"(b) The chains or cables must have a tensile strength equivalent to the loaded weight of the towed vehicle and a means of attachment to the towed and towing vehicle of sufficient strength to control the towed vehicle in event the tow bar or coupling device fails."

This would mean that in Oregon, at least, you're supposed to have tow chains or cables with a breaking strength equal or greater than the weight of your trailer. Less clear is whether that means "each" or "both together". Either way, I doubt a cop would have a way to test them very well at a traffic stop.

After all this conversation, I'm going to feed the tow cables down through the tongue and cross them before they attach to the tow vehicle. In Oregon, I'll add the step of speaking to the officer with my shoulders shrugged, palms up and thumbs out.

Originally Posted by Redhawk

I was surprised to see the TM ends of my safety cable attached to the same bolts that hold the tongue jack on. It doesn't look like a strong attachment point to me.....where are others attached at? Do I need to drill some holes and get me some grade 8 bolts? Thanks

My guess/hope is that the bolts are as strong as the clamps holding the end loops of the cables together (?).

But thanks for bringing this up. After 2 years of ownership, I've never looked closely at how the cables were attached on my Elkmont. Here's what I found: Cable on right poorly attached

The right hand cable lacks a metal insert in the attachment loop and so can be pulled off the bolt more easily than the left. But at least the pull would have to be from above (not likely?). And I wonder how strong those big washers are?

Cripes, talk about the "weak link in the chain." And another example of Trailmanor's poor QC back in 2009-2010 when they were making these Elkmonts.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Bruce - that's the same exact way my chains are attached, although IMHO there isn't quite as much chance for failure with mine as yours as the chain links are much smaller than your cable loops. Your cable loops could slip off the bolt; my chains could snap the head off the bolt. Neither case is confidence inspiring.

I think the proper way to attach the chains is to weld some sort of bracket onto the tongue. Or at least that's the way it's done on boat trailers. And even on TV hitches, the chains are held by simple welded-on loops.

Here's a good discussion on safety chains from several years ago:
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=6693

Dave

Thanks, Dave. That's an interesting discussion. But like many discussions here, there sure were some differences of opinion.

#5 vs #8 bolts for example. (Redhawk, you will find that interesting)

And drilling through the side of the frame. (I cringe at the thought, but that's just my gut reaction)

What did you end up doing?
EDIT: From your remarks above, I guess you left them as installed.

I solved all of my problems after stepping back and looking at it like the retired Engineer I am.
I bought the Heavy Chain that Tractor Supply sells and used the existing bolts, which in my case are on the inside of the frame just behind the folding part of the hitch. I did add a heavier washer, (just in case) but used the original bolts, after all these TMs had to meet standards when built so figure they are within spec.
Chains were $5.24, and the "links" (5000lb) that you screw together cost me $4.99. I connected the chain (each app 6 inch long) to the original cable using the links which allowed the hooks to reach the Ford's connections and they are crossed under the tongue. I have plenty of slack to allow for tight turns now.
I was not able to find anyone that made longer than 48 inch safety chains as a product. Even the ones that have the longer chain that you bolt to the trailer in the middle uses a small bolt. Go figure I guess.
All is well and I am heading out to Niagara Falls in the mid afternoon and stopping in NY to say hello to my brother (and sponge a meal out of them).