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04-19-2018, 01:50 PM
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#11
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 504
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Nice work indeed. The sealand tank is only maybe a gallon more than that. An excellent idea and way less cost than the Sealand.
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04-19-2018, 05:21 PM
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#12
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,900
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Looks awesome. The one complaint I have with my SeaLand is it seems to leave little to no foot space in front of it. Yours looks a little “roomier”.
I’m gonna get me one of those vents. I currently have a hose going through the floor for a vent. It works fine, but I want to put a Camco Toronado tank tinder on the tank. I could then put a hose adapter on my current vent hose and vent the tank through the wall like you have.
Again, nice job!
__________________
2007/21 TM 3326 (Pride of the Fleet)
2000 2720SL (Rebuild Project)
2002 2619 (Parts TM)
SMARTER THAN GOOGLE!
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04-19-2018, 07:07 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 25
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Thanks, for the wall holes the outside hole is 1-1/2” and the inside is 1”. I happened to have both in forstner bits which worked perfectly. I had 3/4” rubber and metal washers which I used on the inside. Came with an o-ring for the outside.
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04-19-2018, 08:33 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 200
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nice work
__________________
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Bob Heisser
Bay Village ohio
2017 Silverado 1500
Anderson 3324 WDH
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04-25-2018, 09:42 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 210
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Great Idea
Bought my Sealand some time ago and just finished installing. it works great but would have followed your pattern. Just one thought. I installed my Sealand and then took it all apart to add one piece. I was a little concerned that the 3 inch rubber connection might wiggle loose. So I bought a metal 3 inch mounting bracket (<$2.00). I mounted it it on the floor and had it drop down. Now there is a bracket holding the piping under the tank up, not just the hose clamps. I am glad I used the rubber connection (that came with the Sealand) rather than a pipe connecter because if I ever need to remove anything (as I already did for the bracket) the task was and will be far easier. I also cheated and used shark-bite fittings for the fresh water. Everything is connected and leak free after being tested with a direct connection to my home water supple. Ready for the new season. Once again, great idea.
__________________
Casey. TM:2006 2720SL TV: 2014 Yukon 300 Watt Solar, 300 Amp lithium, 3K watt Inverter
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04-25-2018, 10:52 AM
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#16
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey Freswick
Bought my Sealand some time ago and just finished installing. it works great but would have followed your pattern. Just one thought. I installed my Sealand and then took it all apart to add one piece. I was a little concerned that the 3 inch rubber connection might wiggle loose. So I bought a metal 3 inch mounting bracket (<$2.00). I mounted it it on the floor and had it drop down. Now there is a bracket holding the piping under the tank up, not just the hose clamps. I am glad I used the rubber connection (that came with the Sealand) rather than a pipe connecter because if I ever need to remove anything (as I already did for the bracket) the task was and will be far easier. I also cheated and used shark-bite fittings for the fresh water. Everything is connected and leak free after being tested with a direct connection to my home water supple. Ready for the new season. Once again, great idea.
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I had to do something similar. I also used a rubber collar with clamps to connect to the down spout of the Sealand. Then another one to reconnect the grey water pipe after having to cut it for moving everything over an inch.
I was then getting a small amount of "sag" in the outside pipes, just enough to cause a drip where it exits the gray water tank. So I rigged up a hanging strap to support the plumbing at its original height, enough to stop the leak.
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04-25-2018, 03:13 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 25
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Thanks for the suggestions about supporting the pipes. I’ve completed my tank repair. So now I’m tackling that part tomorrow and was thinking it would be a good idea to support them.
The fittings I used on the water line are the Watts brand of sharkbite fittings. They have worked just as well for me in other projects and are cheaper.
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04-26-2018, 10:47 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 25
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Finished up the exterior work this morning minus some sort of support bracket. I flipped the 3” valve bc the grey tank plumbing prevented it from fully opening.
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04-26-2018, 01:53 PM
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#19
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Interesting concept. Will probably keep the recirculating toilet because we would likely be emptying the holding tank too often for my preferences, especially if we are boondocking.
With regards to the venting, has anyone tried venting using a flexible hose to the roof? Combined with a small 12 V fan, this may eliminate most odors from even the recirculating toilet.
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04-29-2018, 01:18 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 26
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Great job! I have a 1996 Trailmanor 3023 that I purchased, it was sitting up for 6+ years... I'm looking at options for the toilet, as I expect that getting the old Thetford working may not be possible. This will be a possible inexpensive option.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
__________________
1996 Trailmanor 3023
Mods completed so far : New flooring; New Curtains; Removed Thetford for CAMCO portable; installed 110 volt refrigerator
Mods to be installed : 300 watt renogy solar system (MTTP controller), 3000 watt inverter, Automatic transfer switch, 2 - 6 volt Trojan FLA batteries; Scissor Jacks; LED lighting inside and out.
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