Leveling Issue

Most of the posts we've received recommended your method or some very similar variation of it. That's the procedure we'll use going forward.

I have a problem with the Lynx levellers when it comes to chocking

Lynx does have chocks that hook right to the regular blocks. Look at the upper left corner of this page:
http://www.lynxlevelers.com/

Originally Posted by Freedom

I have a problem with the Lynx levellers when it comes to chocking

Lynx does have chocks that hook right to the regular blocks. Look at the upper left corner of this page:
http://www.lynxlevelers.com/

I knew I had seen those puppes somewhere local.....now if I can only remember where??

Chap

Originally Posted by Shandysplace

Most of the posts we've received recommended your method or some very similar variation of it. That's the procedure we'll use going forward.

Nearly every time we camp, one wheel is too low, so I need to raise it.

I always start with a plank, 2x12 (left over from a project). If that is not enough then I use the plastic LEGO style locking blocks. I do not recall what brand I have, but the pattern is all squares.

So, sometimes I have chocks on the grounds, usually dirt or gravel, sometimes asphalt, but never concrete. Sometimes the chocks are either on a wood plank or on the plastic levelers.

I have never had the plastic chocks slip. Some people have reported problems slipping, but I have never experienced that. I do not know why.

Hmm, I just crank the jacks until everything reads level, though I do look for a level spot to begin with. I've even used the jacks to change a flat. The frame is the same strength all the way through and supported by seven points is better than three IMO. I figured people go through the work of driving on to the blocks because most TT are too heavy to crank up. Are there some other benefits I'm missing? I saw a round doughnut the other day that goes under the tongue wheel to keep it from rolling. Good? Bad? I opted for some Walmart $3 chocks as I camped at the edge of a large hill last time and it occured to me that the jacks may not provide much braking action. The thought of rolling down the hill while snoozing away didn't sound like my kind of vacation adventure.

Originally Posted by larsdennert

Hmm, I just crank the jacks until everything reads level, though I do look for a level spot to begin with. I've even used the jacks to change a flat. The frame is the same strength all the way through and supported by seven points is better than three IMO. I figured people go through the work of driving on to the blocks because most TT are too heavy to crank up. Are there some other benefits I'm missing? I saw a round doughnut the other day that goes under the tongue wheel to keep it from rolling. Good? Bad? I opted for some Walmart $3 chocks as I camped at the edge of a large hill last time and it occured to me that the jacks may not provide much braking action. The thought of rolling down the hill while snoozing away didn't sound like my kind of vacation adventure.

larsdennert,

I use the wheel blocks for the reason that you stated....seven points is better than 3. Most places that I camp don't have very level campsites. So, if I can use the blocked, chocked wheels as another support point (instead of off of the ground), than that feels more stable to me than just using the jacks. And as far as the wheel donut, it seems like a good idea, if TMers use the dolly wheel. I carry mine on each trip just in case I need to move the tongue by hand, but remove it before completing the setup.

Chap

Originally Posted by larsdennert

Hmm, I just crank the jacks until everything reads level, though I do look for a level spot to begin with. I've even used the jacks to change a flat.

I used to do that, but the frame sagged a little in the middle and the door did not work properly. That is why I put the wheels on blocks. I keep most of the weight on the wheels.

I find that I can use the chocks with the LEGO style levelers if I build up the stack so the top platform is 2-3 levelers wide. This obviously takes more levelers but does solve the problem. I also use the flat attachment rather than the tongue wheel except in the garage at home...less to roll.

On our first trip with our old tent trailer, I leveled side to side and blocked one side front and back of the wheel. Then disconnected from the TV and watched the trailer pivot on the wheel that was blocked! Thank goodness the safety chains were still attached so it didn't go far. Now I make sure both wheels are chocked before I disconnect and I don't use the tongue wheel! As someone else mentioned, the goal now is to have 7 secure places...2 wheels, 4 stabalizers, and one tongue! Gravity is a powerful foe!!! As far as the donut-thing goes, I have one and it works fine when I do use the tongue wheel.

Originally Posted by Scott O

I find that I can use the chocks with the LEGO style levelers if I build up the stack so the top platform is 2-3 levelers wide. This obviously takes more levelers but does solve the problem. I also use the flat attachment rather than the tongue wheel except in the garage at home...less to roll.

On our first trip with our old tent trailer, I leveled side to side and blocked one side front and back of the wheel. Then disconnected from the TV and watched the trailer pivot on the wheel that was blocked! Thank goodness the safety chains were still attached so it didn't go far. Now I make sure both wheels are chocked before I disconnect and I don't use the tongue wheel! As someone else mentioned, the goal now is to have 7 secure places...2 wheels, 4 stabalizers, and one tongue! Gravity is a powerful foe!!! As far as the donut-thing goes, I have one and it works fine when I do use the tongue wheel.

I have had a similar experience, so I always:

1. chock front and back of both TM wheels, so it can not pivot.
2. always leave break away cable and safety chains connected until I disconnect from hitch, just in case I forgot to chock both wheels in both directions.

Many of these replies recommend the use of chocks before unhitching, to prevent a roll forward or aft. I agree. I have 4 jacks (front and rear) that I used with a single axle TM, now I use (different) chocks which lock both wheels on each side. They are mechanical scissor-jack appearing and lock up when installed correctly between both tires. One worked so well that I bought another, and now I lock both sides.

These also lend a great deal of stability when the 4 TM scissor jacks (stabilizers) are extended.