Leveling

In the beginning I level the fridge. But when washing dishes the water on the counter ran onto the sofa.

Then I started leveling so the water ran back to the sink. The fridge was still in spec but the stove was quite a bit off.

I also had been annoyed the entire time that the trailer wiggled when walking around more than I thought it should.

After 5 years of camping here is the procedure that I continue to use.

1. Level the trailer side to side as best you can. I carry several 2.8 planks that I can place under the wheel on the low side. I use a 6 inch level on the rear bumper and across the tongue.

2. Chock the front side of both tires.

3. Pull the TM into the chocks tightly.

4. Set the rear chock on both tires. It is helpful to have an assistant for this.

5. Put the TV in neutral and let the TM center itself between the chocks. The chocks are so tight that it is not possible to kick them out. It is this tightness of the chocks that results in a very stable (no rocking) result.

6. Disconnect and level front to back. I use the same 6 inch level.

7. Pop the TM open.

8. Set the four corner jacks. I use a tightness equivalent to what I can do with my are hand.

9. Place a frying pan with a little water on the stove. I the fine tune the corner jacks to center the water in the frying pan.

The end result is:

1. The fridge is within spec.

2. Water on the counter drains to the back and towards the sink.

3. The beds are very level.

4. The TM does not rock and roll.

5. All doors work properly.

6. I can fry an egg in the center of a frying pan. However, I have never fried a egg in the TM. But a level frying pan makes it easier to cook other things.

This topic comes up often. I post this about twice a year for the last several years. I should keep a copy or a link so I don't type it in again, although I do not mind typing it in again.

Several people have admitted that they have adopted my technique.

I don't recall anyone suggesting a procedure that produces a better result.

This might sound time consuming but it really is not.

Is it better to use leveling blocks under the wheel (and "touching up" with the leveling jacks)? ... rather than just using the leveling jacks all by themselves?

Don't know from experience, but my guess is that the trailer would be more stable and secure if the weight on the wheels was evenly distributed by using the leveling blocks.

The jacks are not perfectly rigid, especially when fully extended. I can easily rock mine a bit in the trailer's side-to-side direction. Having the wheels leveled with blocks should help with that side-to-side rocking ... I think.

[rvcycleguy]

I prefer to level the TM, if necessary, with blocks under the low side tire. This allows the TM is open evenly, from side to side, much more easily. With the 3124KB, the length can be heavy and I need to make it as easy as it possibly can be. I'm not using any type of level devices. I feel I can eyeball side to side and front to back well enough to get the job done. After lifting the roofs and sliding the beds in place, I will then crank down the 4 corner jacks to stabilize the TM.

[Brittany Dogs]

I own the BAL tire leveler and I used it during the days when I had the Coleman tent camper. I use it for the TrailManor unit now for two reasons; first it does a nice job leveling with a variable amount. While I do use at least one level block under the low tire, the BAL leveler can be cranked up until level. Using the leveling blocks alone often means using one, then realize you need two, then realize that maybe three is better but guess what three was too many and well, back to using two. In other words the blocks are a trial and error thing.

The second reason why I like the BAL leveler is because the thing is the worlds best wheel chock. I use it even if I don't need to raise the low tire. I just snug it up and let the safety begin.

I also find that if the tongue is initially lower in level by just a little, the first shell with the AC unit opens easier. Once both shells are open and locked, I then re-level front to back with the level on the floor.

Originally Posted by brulaz

The jacks are not perfectly rigid, especially when fully extended. I can easily rock mine a bit in the trailer's side-to-side direction. Having the wheels leveled with blocks should help with that side-to-side rocking ... I think.

I put wood or LEGGO blocks under each of the four jacks. I never crank the jacks down more than about 4 to 6 includes.

As you point out, fully extended jacks do not reduce sway.

To minimize sway:

1. chock the wheels so tight, using two chocks per tire, that it is not possible to kick any chock out. If you can remove a chock then you did not set it tight enough. A tightly chocked wheel will minimize wiggle for and aft.

2. The corner jacks do not need to carry a lot of weight. As an experiment I once tightened the jacks only as tight as I could with my bare hand. This was just adequate. Another full turn or two with the wrench or drill will take care of the remaining side to side wiggle.

The only reason to tighten the jacks more than this is to fine tune level, when you did not start out level enough using the three point method.

[rotor_wash]

I also use a BAL Leveler. You can really "dial" in an exact side to side level. I've found that too much dependance on the scissors jacks can slightly twist the frame which may prevent the door from latching.

Originally Posted by rotor_wash

I've found that too much dependance on the scissors jacks can slightly twist the frame which may prevent the door from latching.

This is exactly why, as I posted earlier, that I tighten the 4 corner jacks to hand tighten plus about 2 turns more. This is enough to remove the wiggle in the floor as you walk around.

[CAmark]

As I recall older TMs had jacks that could not support as much load as the newer units -- so for older TMs (I don't know how old) perhaps this is another good reason to get level with blocks/tongue jack then "snug the wiggle out" with the jacks.

Hi-

What we do for leveling here in Arizona when we pull into a camp site and we are off level my wife pulls up a little and I take a small shovel in the sandy gravel and scrap a little hole in the ground then the tire drops right in. This way if you have to level on the door side with blocks you don’t make the steps going into the trailer higher which can be a pain if you have bad knees. Just a little trick. Then when we leave the hole is corrected... The campground guys taught us this.

Dave

Hi-

We just got back from Payson AZ. from a one week trip today. We had our TM for one year now, and I swear we have the worst entry door ever made. It takes two hands to close it from the outside and I have to pull so hard to close it from the inside. We are perfectly level at all times. This has been going on for 13 trips and I have READ every little trick here on the search forum. I spent so much time here (search) to correct this problem and no luck at all. I think it is time for a 5th wheel... We are going to Show Low AZ. for two months in July and I just can’t take this no longer. This is our 5th trailer in our life and NEVER had a door problem they all closed just like my home doors.

Again My leveling is perfect!
Dave