Converter Issue

[Bill]

Brian -

There are a number of parasitic loads. The radio, or the radio antenna, is one. The electronics for the water heater, or the electronics for the furnace is another. Maybe the electronics for the refrig? I'm not sure. The easiest way to find them is to set your VOM/DVM to a DC amp scale (actually milli-amps), connect it into the battery postive lead, collapse the rear bathroom wall so the safety switch is open, note the current, and then pull the fuses in the converter, one by one, until you find one (or more) that cause a decrease in current when pulled.

GFIs trip reasonably easily when you plug stuff in, so I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you can reset it, all is well.

Yes, your refrig will work fine when you set it to shore power (AC) and plug in the TM to a house outlet. Sometimes you can get the air conditioner to work, but that's pretty iffy.

Bill

Thanks for the info Bill. I did actually measure the amperage draw at battery with trailer closed early on and it was small so did not pursue it any further. The spark created when reconnecting the battery was a little unsettling but I felt better once I measured the low draw.
Also good to know that I can test the fridge on AC at the house and troubleshoot there if needed.