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03-09-2008, 12:45 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 54
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Re: Screws pulling out -- repair
Phil & Bill,
The problem is in my poor wording. I live in an area with a fair amount of industry. I've not been able to find these locally or on the web in smaller quantities.
As to which manufacturer, the better installation tools are not cheap and the brands I have are the brands I have had the opportunity to pick up reasonably. That's why I mentioned the ones made by the manufacturer of Pop-rivets which I had seen years ago in the consumer stores. However, when you install this type of fastener, the tool threads into the machine threads and pulls to mushroom the fastener behind the panel. How much to pull is critical to avoid pulling out the threads (it's easy to get too heavy a hand) and the better (read more expensive) tools make this easier to avoid.
As to which size to select, I have always looked at the screw I am replacing and picked something in that size range. Also, a little seat-of-the-pants engineering helps. Putting a 5/16-18 fastener in a 30 thousandth aluminum sheet would seem to be overkill. I am not a mechanical engineer. There are tables out there if someone wants. I'm more seat-of-the-pants. As you suggest, an appropriate grade of loctite would make sense. Not sure if you would need stainless. Someone more knowledgeable can weigh in, but it seems the aluminum is failing, not the fastener.
These simply seem a step up in quality, size for size, over sheet metal screws and a reasonable, permanent repair alternative. Again, I am a new owner. Over the years I have had sheet metal screw fastening fail and was only anticipating the same with the TMs due to vibration. Nothing on mine has pulled out....yet.
As the install tools are not cheap for a few repairs, I will offer to any Forum Sponsor who is traveling I-95, and needs to repair a hole or two, to stop by and we can have at. I live just south of Baltimore. I have an acre and they can dry camp outside our back door for the evening. They would have to PM me and coordinate schedules. Being retired and new owners, our intention is to exercise our new toy this year.
Arn
__________________
Perfect is the mortal enemy of good enough.
Arnold in Maryland
TVs - 2003 GMC Yukon XL 6L
TM - 2007 2720SL
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03-09-2008, 01:24 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,233
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Arn -
Long ago in another life, I used rivnuts for something. I'd forgotten all about them, but it may be time to buy a kit of tools and nuts, just to have around. I agree, they would be far superior to sheet metal screws in any stressful application. Grainger seems to have a good stock of rivet nuts in small quantities, and they have retail outlets all over the place (or web ordering if none are near you).
Bill
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03-09-2008, 07:48 PM
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#13
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Guest
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Grainger Thread Insert Kit Part Numbers
Here are the Grainger Part Numbers for two Kits,
Aluminum Kit
Thread Insert Kit
Grainger Item # 5JK68
Nut Insert Kit, 62 Inserts per Kit, Thread Type Coarse And Fine, Aluminum, For Installation in Metal, Fiberglass And Rigid Plastic, Includes 10 Each 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, 10-32, 1/4-20 and 6 Each 5/16-18 and 3/8-16, 5JK71 Plier Style Setting Tool, Plastic Case Grainger Item # 5JK68
Brand MARSON
Mfr. Model # 3921
Steel Kit
Thread Insert Kit
Grainger Item # 5JK74
Nut Insert Kit, 62 Inserts per Kit, Thread Type Coarse And Fine, Steel, For Installation in Metal, Fiberglass And Rigid Plastic, Includes 10 Each 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, 10-32, 1/4-20 and 6 Each 5/16-18 and 3/8-16, 5JK71 Plier Style Setting Tool, Plastic Case Grainger Item # 5JK74
Brand MARSON
Mfr. Model # 39214
Question is, should you stay with an Aluminum Kit or go with the stronger Steel ones? Dialectric problems? Rust issues with steel?
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03-10-2008, 06:53 PM
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#14
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Guest
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Good find Earl. Pricey but it looks like it has a little of everything.
I think I'd try aluminum first. Should have more threads with these guys so should be stronger than the original. Aluminum is also easier to drill out so, if it doesn't work, probably easier to get out.
Phil
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05-27-2008, 03:24 PM
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#15
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Guest
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Stainless in aluminum can set up a galvanic corrosion cell which will attack the stainless fitting.
BK
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05-31-2011, 09:06 PM
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#16
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 412
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The screws are coming lose for the anchors for my front slider and it seems like these rivet nuts are the best idea I have seen to replace the screws. I was able to find a reasonably priced gun at Harbor Fright, but no rivet nuts come with the unit. I think it comes with a size 6 and 8.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...kit-94100.html
Amazon seems to carry the nuts but I am not sure what size to use. I am thinking 8-32 but am not sure what all the other sizing is about. If anyone has used these and knows what size is best to use, I would sure like to know.
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node...nut&sort=price
__________________
Roger and Patty
TM:2006 2720SL
TV: 2010 Tundra w/ tow pac.
Dealer Options:swing tongue, sink cabinet, awning, air conditioning, tile
Modification: 15“ tires & monitor system, WDH, Prodigy B.C., 2-6 V. batteries & clipper monitor, LED's. Additional modifications can be seen in albums.
Pictures of campsites and places we visited can be seen at https://www.flickr.com/photos/101899116@N06/sets/.
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