Lower door jamb problems - Page 2

06-09-2006, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ripp1202

So what you saying is you leveled the trailer and 8 turns of the back right jack door side and the door closed great?

Yes that is what I am saying.

With the TM level on the stabilizers, the door does not close good. Once I raise the back right stabilizer, the door closes good. If I am not using the stabilizers and the TM is leveled front to back with tongue jack and side to side is level on driveway, the door closes good. Of coarse before trying to close the door, I have to set the lower door jamb pinned to the upper door jamb. With TM leveled on stabilzers only the jamb has to be forced and the door does not close good. Once I raise the back right stabilizer, the jamb sets easy and the door closes good.

ripp1202 · 06-09-2006, 08:23 AM

Thank you because some time my door does the same thing and I will try this. I normally just run the jacks up and relevel and this has work. Can't wait to try this!! And it is the back door side jack?

The Rip

06-09-2006, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ripp1202

Thank you because some time my door does the same thing and I will try this. I normally just run the jacks up and relevel and this has work. Can't wait to try this!! And it is the back door side jack?

The Rip

Yes, the back stabilizer on the door side. I tried each corner one at a time until I proved to myself the back right stabilizer worked best.

06-09-2006, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas_Camper

While the reference to pop-up frames was a good one, the TM frame is much more "solid" than that on a pop-up. The TM frame won't flex near as much. I find it easier to: level side to side, fore and aft, then put the screw jacks down, firm, then open the shells. This method works for me...
It could be that your TM has a personality that requires you to put pressure on the rear jack. If so, then do it....
By the way......
When I bought my 1 yo pre-owned unit, it had some small stick-on levels on the shells, and in an inconvenient place. I opened the unit, put a six inch carpenters level inside the fridge on the floor. Got that rascal level and put all the jacks down, firm. Closed the shells and stuck on some larger levels on the front shell so I could see them easily. Now I can level the unit side to side, chock the wheels, unhitch, then level fore and aft with the tounge jack and be assured that when I open the unit, everything is fine...
As you become more familiar with the TM, you'll love it...
Please let us have a trip report on your next time out.
Thanks

The dealer put 2 levels on the front left corner of the shell. They are reading off level. I put a 3 foot level on the floor near the refrigerator for leveling front to back and side to side. I put on 2 new bubble levels on the right front corner of the shell. I also modified the dealers bubble levels. Until my problem is solved, I will level, then twist.

**Brightsu** · 06-15-2006, 06:51 PM

This may have nothing to do with your problem, but we also have a 3326 and our door wouldn't line up exactly after setting up, we would be level but when we opened the door all the way to latch it to the side for carrying in things it would come apart from its inside latch, in your picture 5 that brown block actually has a adjustment screw in it to adjust the side in or out to help with the door working properly. Figure that, we found it by accident.

Pam

**Bill** · 06-16-2006, 07:48 AM

I think Denny_A outlined the fix that Pam is referring to, complete with pictures. See

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...read.php?t=924

Bill

06-16-2006, 09:28 AM

I've been having a similar door separation problem as Pam described, but I did not find an adjustment screw at the brown block in picture #5. Is this something on newer TMs with slides?

So I was interested in Bill's thread link, but unfortunately the pictures don't seem to be there any longer.

What I found in the TM was a triangular brace bolted to the frame through the floor and screwed with a several self-tappers to the wall adjacent to the door hinge. The triangular brown block appears to be a trim piece to hide the "works". The wall screws had lost traction in the thin aluminum of the wall and so the brace was no longer holding the wall vertical. I fixed the problem by replacing two of the screws with stainless steel machine screws which go all the way through the wall to fender washers and acorn nuts on the outside.

-Paul

**Denny_A** · 06-16-2006, 10:47 PM

.....slide show is fixed! Fixed in the link offered by Bill.

Denny_(don't check in much anymore)A

06-17-2006, 07:04 AM

Thanks, Denny, that's cleared up things for me.
I guess I never considered the brace as an adjustable device so I was confused, but I suppose if you you loosen/tighten the bolts to the frame it could be regarded so. Once I got around the screws not holding, I got the best results with everything cinched up tight.

-Paul

**Denny_A** · 06-18-2006, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pbuck1

Thanks, Denny, that's cleared up things for me.
I guess I never considered the brace as an adjustable device so I was confused, but I suppose if you you loosen/tighten the bolts to the frame it could be regarded so. Once I got around the screws not holding, I got the best results with everything cinched up tight.
-Paul

......the factory folks adjusted mine whilst I looked on. I went ther to install the "modded" shell stirrup brackets, and they adjusted a few other items...the door being one of them. Said the angle brace can be adjusted, short of crushing the floor, in order to "return" the wall back to vertical!

No charge for the labor or for new stirrup brackets or for replacing a faulty spring-loaded latch (which engages the stirrup bracket). That's what I call service!!!!!

Denny_A