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11-18-2017, 01:51 PM
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#21
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larryjb
As Bill said, more spring tension at the beginning of the lift will make it more difficult to latch down. That's why I was suggesting a latch down mechanism that would make it easier to close. This could be an assymetrical lever or perhaps a screw down system. A lever would be quicker, but perhaps more difficult. A screw down lock could be easier, but increase the setup and close down time.
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A power latch-down system, kinda like the automatic tailgate latch on newer SUVs? Larry, I'm liking this more and more. Keep going!
Bill
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11-18-2017, 02:44 PM
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#22
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826
You could simply weld a tab on the middle of the U. Torsion bar springs on the front of a Chevy Silverado are straight lines, with a tab to catch the adjuster key. That was just a rough idea.
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Maybe I need to look at my Tahoe again, but I thought the tab on the torsion bar was made by bending a straight rod into the "L" shape to catch the adjuster key, rather than welding a straight tab on the side of it.
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11-18-2017, 02:58 PM
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#23
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
A power latch-down system, kinda like the automatic tailgate latch on newer SUVs? Larry, I'm liking this more and more. Keep going!
Bill
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If the power latch system were like your screw jack idea, except to pull the shell down instead, it could be operated by a cordless drill or manually. This could remain a foolproof mechanism that would rarely fail, but have the power option.
My only concern with increased torsion bar assistance when opening is that that tension is constantly pushing up on the shell. If they continued to use those little tent trailer style hold down clamps at the corners, they would be more likely to pull away from the side of the trailer. I think one would have to use 4 of those heavy latches that they use in the centre of the trailer, one at each corner of the shell. The power latch-down system could simply pull the shell down until each latch engages.
I think I'd also like to see some vertical aluminum pieces from the pockets stops to the upper horizontal shell frame. This would take the forces off the skin of the shell. The drawback is that the aluminum would make a cold spot in those locations along the wall.
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11-18-2017, 03:16 PM
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#24
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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a very rough idea for a mechanical / powered latch down mechanism.
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11-18-2017, 05:34 PM
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#25
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larryjb
My only concern with increased torsion bar assistance when opening is that that tension is constantly pushing up on the shell.
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Yes, it is. But that tension is absorbed entirely by the big latches in the middle of the trailer.
Quote:
If they continued to use those little tent trailer style hold down clamps at the corners, they would be more likely to pull away from the side of the trailer.
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I'm not sure why. The little clamps don't see any of the force, since they are not latched until the big clamps have snapped closed and taken the force of the torsion bars.
Quote:
I think one would have to use 4 of those heavy latches that they use in the centre of the trailer, one at each corner of the shell. The power latch-down system could simply pull the shell down until each latch engages.
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I'm not sure I understand this thought. The only time the little latches at the corners are latched is when the big latches in the middle are also latched. At that time, the big latches take all the force of the torsion bars, so the little latches never see the force of the torsion bars, no matter how much you crank them up. You release the little clamps before you release the big ones, so again, the little ones never see that big force.
In other words, you can beef up the torsion bars as much as you like, and the little clamps will never see it.
Bill
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11-18-2017, 05:42 PM
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#26
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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I would agree that those latches aren't meant to take much force from the torsion bars. If, however, we wish a greater lifting force on the shell from the torsion bars , the latches at the ends would be trying to hold down a lifting force. That is the reason for my suggestion for having large latches at the outer ends as well.
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11-19-2017, 08:28 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Rockford IL
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvcycleguy
I have found that if you lower the tongue significantly the front roof becomes much easier to lift as if it's opening downhill.
Same for the rear, if you then jack up the tongue.
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Good Tip!! I will have to try that, Thanks RVcycleguy
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11-19-2017, 09:35 AM
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#28
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larryjb
Maybe I need to look at my Tahoe again, but I thought the tab on the torsion bar was made by bending a straight rod into the "L" shape to catch the adjuster key, rather than welding a straight tab on the side of it.
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It has what looks like a cam lobe on the adjustment end of the torsion bar. I believe the stationary end is hex shaped and fits into a hex hole on the control arm.
__________________
2007/21 TM 3326 (Pride of the Fleet)
2000 2720SL (Rebuild Project)
2002 2619 (Parts TM)
SMARTER THAN GOOGLE!
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11-19-2017, 10:57 AM
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#29
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826
It has what looks like a cam lobe on the adjustment end of the torsion bar. I believe the stationary end is hex shaped and fits into a hex hole on the control arm.
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Right, it has those hex ends. I still don't recall seeing anything actually welded to the torsion bar. There is that cam shaped thing that fits on the end of the torsion bar towards the rear, but as I recall, it slides into a hex shaped end of the torsion bar.
If such a cam key could be slid onto the torsion bar, a hole could be drilled through both and pinned. I've seen enough failed welds that I wouldn't trust a weld on a torsion bar. Maybe it could welded, but what effect would it have on the spring of the bar, and how well would it last over 20 or 30 years. I honestly don't know the answer to those questions.
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11-19-2017, 03:25 PM
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#30
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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droid app to rise and lower the camper. lol. Might be a stretch???
Really, I would like to see better seals on the sides of the rear bed. I have had 2 different TM's and both the seals around the rear bed suck. I think the current design allows for the top shell and bed to have a lots of play in the alignment. But this makes a big gap to seal. At best it seals maybe 80% and the rest of the sealing you are counting on the fabric flap to do the job of a seal.
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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