Highlander chugging while towing?

[woodlandcottage]

Originally Posted by Bill

I wouldn't be pleased with what I see. So I have to ask again, when you put the hitch weight on the ball, how much does the tow vehicle squat? In other words, if you measure the height of the rear bumper above the ground at some convenient point near the center, then hitch up the loaded trailer, and measure the bumper height again at the same point, how much has the bumper dropped? If it is more than an inch or two, you need to do something about it.

At the same time you are measuring the rear bumper drop (squat), you might also measure the front bumper rise.

Bill

Well isn't that scientific! We didn't notice any squat or lift when hitching up, but I will definitely measure next time, Great idea!

[tentcamper]

I see the same thing as Bill. It may be the photo or the levelness of the ground the TV is parked on. I assume were seeing your photo without anyone in the TV, not loaded and maybe full tank of gas??

I would do some measuring. On level ground with the wheels straight. Measure the before and after measurements to the fenders right above the axles. Also measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the TM frame at the comers of the box.

The TM should be level or error with the tongue slightly lower no more then 1". The rise on the front fender, I would go no greater then 3/4 inch, or I would get WDH. Much Squat in the rear a WDH can fix it or more springs. But play it safe if you have to much rise on the front your taking traction off the steering axles. I had 5/8 inch rise on the front and got a WDH.

[woodlandcottage]

The TV was empty except 3/4 tank of gas. The pad was almost 100% level. I squatted down to take the closer pic so I might have been leaning. :P We will definitely be measuring before we take it out again. WDHes aren't expensive if it turns out we need one. I just don't know why it's so tricky to figure out if we do need one. I guess I thought towing problems would be more obvious when you were doing something wrong. One day I'll look back on this experience and laugh at how dumb I was "in the beginning".

[MarkoPolo]

I'm wondering how you would know if it's level with your stabilizer jacks down? Seems the only way to tell is with the trailer closed and the jacks up. I've said it before, but you don't want to find out "the hard way" that you need a WDH. After some scary totally unexpected "incidents" I will never tow mine without a WDH.

[LoveToCamp]

A link to a WDH explanation.

But, a different way to measure, just to see how much squat: Have TM level, on the levelers. Measure to the bottom of the hitch, where the ball will go. Write it down. Back your Highlander close to the TM hitch. Measure to the bottom of the ball mount on your drawbar (right where your ball is mounted). Write it down.

Hitch the TM to the Highlander. Make sure no stabilizers are down, just as you are when you are ready to hit the road.

Measure to the bottom of the TM hitch, the same spot you measured to before. Write the measurement down. Measure to the bottom of the drawbar, where your ball is mounted. Write it down.

Compare the measurements to one another. Is your TM hitch at the same level as when unhitched, but level? How much difference? Is your ball mount the same level as it was without the trailer attached, and unsupported by the leveling jacks? How much difference?

My guess is that your ball is not the same level as it was without the TM attached. If this is the case, your drawbar is lower. If it is lower, then your headlights are aiming higher. If you are driving at night, your low beams will appear to be high beams to oncoming traffic, and they will flash you. That is but one reason to get a WDH.

Other reasons, as mentioned: Not enough weight on the front wheels, which impairs steering and braking. Too much weight on your rear axle. Highlander is not riding level, causing all these problems.

In my mind, unless someone has a very stiff rear suspension, towing anything other than a utility trailer will require a WDH. I did not use a WDH when we had our 1,200 lb popup. I didn't drive at night, but I bet my lights aimed high. I do know my rear sagged (and not just because I am aging!), but didn't think about it. Since I got the TM and started reading the forums, I have learned much about proper towing setup and equipment. Glad I got onto the forums!

Good luck, and keep us informed of your measurements.

[Mr. Adventure]

Squat can be a problem. But lift on the front wheels is a much bigger problem and an important safety issue because of the braking and steering loss. A WDH is a must for most of us.

[woodlandcottage]

MarkoPolo, I thought about the jacks being down messing with how level it looked as I was posting the pictures. Duh. Honestly it looked exactly the same to me before they were down but "exactly the same" to an untrained eye might have been the difference of 1-2 inches. Don't know. I'm going to be much more scientific and observant the next time we hitch up!

LoveToCamp, I saw a video last night with almost your exact description of how to measure and I was thinking "Hallelujah! It's starting to make sense to me now!" We'll be hitching up this weekend to move the TM from the RV pad to practice backing into the garage. We might have to let some air out of the tires to do that since I don't think the AC is the low-profile model. It's going to be a tight fit regardless. Anyway, we'll take some measurements then.

Thanks so much for all the help!

[tentcamper]

Originally Posted by woodlandcottage

The TV was empty except 3/4 tank of gas. The pad was almost 100% level. I squatted down to take the closer pic so I might have been leaning. :P We will definitely be measuring before we take it out again. WDHes aren't expensive if it turns out we need one. I just don't know why it's so tricky to figure out if we do need one. I guess I thought towing problems would be more obvious when you were doing something wrong. One day I'll look back on this experience and laugh at how dumb I was "in the beginning".

Glad to hear that you will be checking out the measurements. When I stared towing there was no internet and I counted on a hitch shop to do all the measurements, setup the hitch with the camper attached and educate me. They custom made hitches at that time and welded the WDH together. I too was lost as to what I needed. Most of us went through this learning curve.

The rear squat can be solved with a WDH or airbag or springs, but to much rise on the front end which affects your safety and how the TV handles can only be solved with a WDH.

If you find you need a WDH. There are two numbers that they are rated for: tongue weight (spring weight) and tow capacity. Tongue weight is the most important number to be concerned with. This is a time when more is not better.

For the WHD to work right, which has to do with the bars spring. You never want you camper tongue weight to exceed the WDH tongue rating, but you don't want too much tongue capacity of the WDH. So you need to find a hitch that is rated for your tongue weight. In my case I found a reese WDH that was rated for 600/10,00 lb (600 tongue and 10,000 tow capacity). My research found that it' it was designed to operate between 200 and 600 lbs of tongue weight. My TM dry is around 350, LB loaded it's somewhere around 425.

[scrubjaysnest]

Got a look at a Highlander while we were a Fairfield SP. The receiver was very low, just barely above the curb. That might explain such a high lift on yours.

[bheisser]

i tow with a 2014 tacoma, i notice my trailer from a
going up hill and going from a dead stop,,, cruising on a flat highway not as much
also i dont drive in overdrive perhaps that may be your issue