keeping battery charged

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by ZekenSpider

My 2 cents is:



Maybe the converter has to sense not only a low battery voltage (I should say DC Buss voltage since it really only senses the Buss voltage) but a heavy load as well.

This is my thought also but have been a little hesitant to use a battery with low charge plus the 50 amp load tester I have.

As to test #1, I have seen the same thing, but attributed it to the "phantom load" (constant 2 to 3 ma control circuit loads) that keep the battery (Buss) discharging. Perhaps that prevents the "converter" from sensing a "fully charged" condition.




Jerry

I had the same thoughts so pulled all DC fuses except the reverse current protection.
This was done for both test 2 and 3.
I was also running a "48 hour" test to see if the converter would "float" but that got hit with the power just went out at 37 hours into the test so I may have "reset the clock". Prior to our loss of power the battery had risen to 13.70VDC with 13.71VDC at the Converter. The manual says to lift the batter leads and check for 13.6 +/- 0.3 VDC to determine if the converter is working.
Also have noticed with the fuses pulled I am only showing blown fuse indication on two of the seven fused circuits.

Ken

[Bill]

Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest

Also have noticed with the fuses pulled I am only showing blown fuse indication on two of the seven fused circuits.

Ken -

I wouldn't be too concerned about this. The "blown fuse" indicator light is wired directly across the fuse. Normally all the current flows through the fuse, so the light doesn't light. But if the fuse is blown (or pulled), some small current flows through the light, which comes on. But notice that in order for the little indicator light to come on, there must be some load, even a tiny one, connected to the circuit, so that the light's current has somewhere to flow.

For example, one circuit in the TM is wired so that current flows:
- from the battery, through the fuse, through the refrigerator, and back to the battery.
If you remove the fuse, the current flow is:
- from the battery, through the indicator light, through the refrigerator, and back to the battery.
But if the refrigerator is turned off, no current can flow anywhere in this circuit, and the light won't light.

Hope this helps.

Bill

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by Bill

Ken -

I wouldn't be too concerned about this. The "blown fuse" indicator light is wired directly across the fuse. Normally all the current flows through the fuse, so the light doesn't light. But if the fuse is blown (or pulled), some small current flows through the light, which comes on. But notice that in order for the little indicator light to come on, there must be some load, even a tiny one, connected to the circuit, so that the light's current has somewhere to flow.

For example, one circuit in the TM is wired so that current flows:
- from the battery, through the fuse, through the refrigerator, and back to the battery.
If you remove the fuse, the current flow is:
- from the battery, through the indicator light, through the refrigerator, and back to the battery.
But if the refrigerator is turned off, no current can flow anywhere in this circuit, and the light won't light.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Wasn't to concerned about it was just posted more as an FYI. Also as an FYI that isn't the way I design blown fuse indicating circuits. But that is another story.

Harbor frieght has a solar panel set for sale right now (45w) for 149.00. This will keep the batteries charged. Also add a key switch to the batteries that when you are not using or charging you can turn the key and isolate the draw.

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by sojofamily

Harbor frieght has a solar panel set for sale right now (45w) for 149.00. This will keep the batteries charged. Also add a key switch to the batteries that when you are not using or charging you can turn the key and isolate the draw.

A friend has a set of these which he uses all winter here in Fl. Down side of these may be the material is sprayed on the glass and there are a few reports of the PV material falling off the glass. With my friends set up the panels are set out in the fall and stored in the spring with out moving.

[scrubjaysnest]

When I checked this morning the converter was finally at 13.2VDC for a float value. It took closer to 60 hours then the 48 the manual calls for. This may mean its ok to leave the converter plugged in for for long periods of time. I would still check the battery fluid levels and for excessive bubbling, gassing, about weekly. Still don't know if it has a bulk, boost, mode of 14.4VDC.

fwiw, I have left my 200 TM 2720 plugged in for well over a month at home several times. I have never had a problem. I still have the original pair of batteries, Interstate RV/Marine group 24.

I added water once, but it was not very much. Maybe as much as a teaspoon in some of the cells.

I have no idea what converter I have. With a pair of batteries and a Honda 2000 generator, I really don't worry about it too much.

I have gone 3 days easily in the summer (meaning no furnace) without using the generator.

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by PopBeavers

fwiw, I have left my 200 TM 2720 plugged in for well over a month at home several times. I have never had a problem. I still have the original pair of batteries, Interstate RV/Marine group 24.

I added water once, but it was not very much. Maybe as much as a teaspoon in some of the cells.

I have no idea what converter I have. With a pair of batteries and a Honda 2000 generator, I really don't worry about it too much.

I have gone 3 days easily in the summer (meaning no furnace) without using the generator.

PopBeavers,
FWIW From your sig with a 2005 TM you most likely have the WF 8955 converter. I have found only once where it was reported in any forums where a WF 8955 boiled the battery dry.
Prior to getting our '11 TM with its WF 8955 converter my close to 30 years RV experience says don't leave it plugged into shore power for long periods of time without checking on fluid levels. I started testing the WF 8955 based on my previous experience. Your experience plus that of others on this site and the testing I have done so far leads me to believe the WF 8955 is a much better converter. Because I haven't been able to force the converter to Bulk, boost, mode of 14.4VDC I am still not ready to call it a 3 stage as the manual claims. It may take both a low battery voltage and a high current draw. 10 or more amps?

Congrats on the 13.2V

As for the "bulk" charge, have you found anything about how many amps the WFCO can/should bulk charge at? My guess is that it's pretty (s)low. Another reason for a separate charger. My batteries are 232Ah, and I charge at 20A.

OT: we haven't seen any Florida Scrub Jays down here in pine scrub near Fort Myers. Looks like Ocala N.F. might be a better bet.

Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest

PopBeavers,
FWIW From your sig with a 2005 TM you most likely have the WF 8955 converter. I have found only once where it was reported in any forums where a WF 8955 boiled the battery dry.
Prior to getting our '11 TM with its WF 8955 converter my close to 30 years RV experience says don't leave it plugged into shore power for long periods of time without checking on fluid levels. I started testing the WF 8955 based on my previous experience. Your experience plus that of others on this site and the testing I have done so far leads me to believe the WF 8955 is a much better converter. Because I haven't been able to force the converter to Bulk, boost, mode of 14.4VDC I am still not ready to call it a 3 stage as the manual claims. It may take both a low battery voltage and a high current draw. 10 or more amps?

I pulled the name from my converter a year or three ago and sent email to the manufacturer about number of stages etc.

If I can find it I will post it.

I rarely delete email. I have been collecting it at home since 1995.

I'm a pack rat. I still have canceled checks from 1972.

Busy tonight. Maybe Thursday.