A poor man’s Sealand alternative - Page 4

grubbyjeans · 06-16-2018, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmhellings

I recently completed my Poor Man's Sealand Alternative, largely following the advice of Dudeabides. One difference is that I added about 6 Gallons of capacity by doing the 3" -line-around-the-gray-tank-mod. All in all, I should have about 14 gal. black water capacity.

Also, instead of trimming the flange on the right side of the tank, I opened up the wall under the shower, and pushed the tank partially under there. It achieved the same end but with less tank cutting.

THANK YOU DUDEABIDES, for all your research and launching me on this mission to remove the regurgitating toilet.

Paul

Please post pictures.
Thanks

jasonv31 · 07-04-2018, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmhellings

I recently completed my Poor Man's Sealand Alternative, largely following the advice of Dudeabides. One difference is that I added about 6 Gallons of capacity by doing the 3" -line-around-the-gray-tank-mod. All in all, I should have about 14 gal. black water capacity.

Also, instead of trimming the flange on the right side of the tank, I opened up the wall under the shower, and pushed the tank partially under there. It achieved the same end but with less tank cutting.

THANK YOU DUDEABIDES, for all your research and launching me on this mission to remove the regurgitating toilet.

Paul

Do you have a link for the "3" -line-around-the-gray-tank-mod" that adds additional capacity ? Also as the previous poster asked ... please post a few pictures ! Thanks for the tweaks on this mod and thanks a lot for the great mod @dudeabides !

**pmhellings** · 07-04-2018, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonv31

Do you have a link for the "3" -line-around-the-gray-tank-mod" that adds additional capacity ? Also as the previous poster asked ... please post a few pictures ! Thanks for the tweaks on this mod and thanks a lot for the great mod @dudeabides !

I don't have a link. I heard about it and just went under and ran the line. Go from the original 3" drop towards the back of the camper put in an elbow, run across the width of the TM, another elbow to turn the pipe towards the front run pipe until yo get near the wheel add another elbow and run the pipe back to a point just in front of the original toilet drop. Glue on a new valve.

I tee'd into the gray water on the first leg with an 1-1/2" valve between the tank and the tee. Make sure to use strong hangers and ensure that there is a slight drop in height on each pipe run. Total drop for the whole run should be about 1".

No photos as I really wouldn't know how to take a photo of it unless the TM were on a lift. If you go under the camper, you can see that there is really only one path for the pipe to run.

Paul

jasonv31 · 07-09-2018, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmhellings

I don't have a link. I heard about it and just went under and ran the line. Go from the original 3" drop towards the back of the camper put in an elbow, run across the width of the TM, another elbow to turn the pipe towards the front run pipe until yo get near the wheel add another elbow and run the pipe back to a point just in front of the original toilet drop. Glue on a new valve.

I tee'd into the gray water on the first leg with an 1-1/2" valve between the tank and the tee. Make sure to use strong hangers and ensure that there is a slight drop in height on each pipe run. Total drop for the whole run should be about 1".

No photos as I really wouldn't know how to take a photo of it unless the TM were on a lift. If you go under the camper, you can see that there is really only one path for the pipe to run.

Paul

Ah ok ... its the line that adds capacity (I was thinking another tank etc), I have seen that mentioned already, but didn't put two and two together that was what you meant. Good info... I will try that later when I completely do the full mod and do away with my camco portable :-) I understand about the pictures lol ... I bet it was tight under there :-)

**Bill** · 07-09-2018, 11:28 AM

I'm thinking that a washout fitting (a garden hose fitting glued into that final cap) would be a good idea. Otherwise, if junk flows up to the top/end and gets stuck there, you have no way to get it out.

Bill

Wavery · 05-07-2022, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmhellings

I recently completed my Poor Man's Sealand Alternative, largely following the advice of Dudeabides. One difference is that I added about 6 Gallons of capacity by doing the 3" -line-around-the-gray-tank-mod. All in all, I should have about 14 gal. black water capacity.

Also, instead of trimming the flange on the right side of the tank, I opened up the wall under the shower, and pushed the tank partially under there. It achieved the same end but with less tank cutting.

THANK YOU DUDEABIDES, for all your research and launching me on this mission to remove the regurgitating toilet.

Paul

I know that this is an old thread but I thought that someone may know the answer.

Why us 3" pipe? Is there a reason for not using 4" Pipe?

Just as an example........ if you were to use 190" of 3" that would give you approximately 6G of capacity. If you went with 4" pipe, that would give you about 10.5G capacity. Almost double.

If the only reason is the 3" trap, there are reducers from 4" to 3" for hooking up to the trap.

**Deb Mac** · 07-06-2022, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DudeAbides

For the vent I made a hole in the side right above the line from the tank.

I love your set-up and am using it in my TM. PO had removed the recirculating toilet and simply replaced it with a high-profile aqua-magic, but no black tank. Just did their business straight down into the waste valve, sewer hose and into the sewer at the the campground. Since I already have a nice toilet in there, I am going to extend the box about 12" in the front, or get a nice short 5"-6" step stool, to step up to the toilet, and your feet aren't swinging in the air!

Did you find that 3/4" vent gives enough air behind when you open the dump valve? I was thinking of using one of those (except a straight fitting) T'd into an Oatey Sure-Vent. That should be plenty to give air as well as odour venting out the side wall. I figured I would press fit the Oatey to begin with, just in case it didn't work out. If it wasn't for wanting odour venting, I would just go with the Oatey, and avoid drilling a hole in my wall

(I might try that to begin with anyway, and see how it goes)

**Bill** · 07-06-2022, 03:36 PM

Quote:

I was thinking of using one of those (except a straight fitting) T'd into an Oatey Sure-Vent. That should be plenty to give air as well as odour venting out the side wall.

If I understand correctly, the Oatey would help with air admittance into the tank when you dump, by providing easier flow of air coming into the tank.

But I don't think the Oatey would play any part in preventing odor intrusion into the interior of the trailer. Odorous gasses flow out of the trailer through the sidewall vent.

So what would be the point of adding an Oatey? If it is simply to increase air flow during dumping, wouldn't a slightly larger vent pipe do the job?

I may have lost the thread here. If so, straighten me out, please.

Bill

**Deb Mac** · 07-06-2022, 05:41 PM

The Oatey is just what you said… an air admittance valve. But it is a one way valve - a spring loaded flap valve of sorts. Air comes in when dumping but the flap keeps air from coming out when nothing is happening. They are in a lot of bigger rv’s under the kitchen sink to help them drain since they are far from the main grey tank vent (frequently).
I could just use a bigger vent pipe out the side of the trailer, but I was hoping to minimize drilling holes in the side of the trailer. I was curious whether dudeabides found that the 3/4” vent pipe was sufficient diameter to allow a good rush of air to follow the dumping process? Too small and it would slow down the speed of flow from the tank. I think generally a 2” vent is the minimum you find, but I’m not sure. Happy to go with 3/4” angled vent if he found it worked out well.
Edit… I suppose it would actually work fine since it’s such a short length of pipe. Less than a foot- probably wouldn’t restrict air flow much. If I could find a 1” vent that would be even better!
Edit: Found the same vent in 1 1/2"... for $80! Not sure if I want to go that high. But at least I know it's there if I want to use it.

**Deb Mac** · 07-10-2022, 11:51 AM

I have a question regarding the bottom outlet on the tank. Does yours have a ~ 1/4" lip inside the tank? I discovered that yesterday (haven't started my install yet) and have sent a question to Icon to ask how a black tank is supposed to completely empty when the drain lip is higher than the bottom of the tank?

I am considering taking my dremel and cutting that proud rim back to be flush with the floor of the tank. And do the same to the threaded hub that I have to put into it. (I also plan to use rectorseal 5 on the threads) I realize that the tank bottom is sloped toward the drain, but with that lip, there will always be a reasonable amount of residual liquid (and other stuff) in the bottom of the tank.

Anyone else that has done this mod find that to be an issue? Or am I overthinking it? I suppose that at the end of a trip I can do a real solid rinse, but with the top down, I can't get into it at the dump station to do a "power wash" from the inside.