Leveling confusion

Originally Posted by PopBeavers

I keep the level in the driver's door.

I level side to side with planks and then fore/aft with the tongue jack while the TM is closed. I get it as close to level as my 6 inch level will allow.

After I open the TM, I set a frying pan with a little water in it on the stove. I use the corner jacks to level the TM so the water is in the center of the frying pan.

The fridge is within specification, the door works properly and the bed is not leaning.

fwiw, I chock my wheels so tight that it is not possible to kick them out. When leaving I have to pull the TM forward a bit with the TV to get the rear chocks out. Very tight wheel chocks contribute significantly to stability when walking in the TM.

Sounds like the same procedure I use (minus the fry pan). I put the level on the floor inside the door for my fine tuning. In my early trips, I would double check various surfaces (counters, stoves, fridge, etc.) but I found that they all seemed to 'average' around the floor. So, now I just use the floor reference for final tunning. All my systems work and we never feel 'tilted'. Fine tunning doesn't ever take too much.

I actually use the TV to tighten my chocking. Put cocks to the rear and back into them, put chocks tight in front and let it 'settle'. Requires TV to release.

[Brittany Dogs]

OK, the Blackberry takes good photos except when the tiny lens has a little dirt on it. My version of Photoshop doesn't have a remove dirt button.

First I stow the steps as normal. I guess there is a possibility that my steps on the 2011 model could be different than previous years so your steps might be different.

Second, I unscrew the leveler screw so that it can lay flat to the ground. My greasy lifting screw has a piece of shrink-tube around it and I shrunk (is that a word??) the shrink tubing just until it was a bit snug so that it stays on but is easy to slide off when I need to use the leveler. Otherwise the grease of the screw will get everywhere instead of just most everywhere.

I use a black velcro strap to hold the BAL leveler halves together so that the leveler acts as one piece when it is not in use.

Third, I slide the BAL leveler over the step bottom bracket but under the folded steps. It will hit a stop which is actually the folded steps stopping the BAL leveler. However, at this point the leveler is sticking out way too much.

Fourth, I reach near the rear of the steps assembly and lift the guide that the steps use when folding the steps in and out. See photo with arrow.

Last, I bungie the BAL leveler in place just to over engineer the certainty that I don't drop the leveler on the road somewhere. The leveler is really quite secure even without the bungie given the slanted metal pieces that cup the tires will prevent a lot of unintended movement.

Does this help? Just make sure that when you push the trailer ends down that the bottom side of the wall still clears the leveler before your final clamp-down of the trailer. I don't know if all models or all previous years of TM's will have the same mechanical dimensions of my 2011 unit.