Roof slope?

[Pele2048]

Originally Posted by Bill

Oops! Sounds like you've got it. My apologies, and thanks for your patience.

Bill

It's all good. If possible, can you retrieve the old version of my post. I sometimes refer back to my own writing to keep myself organized.

[Bill]

Pele2048 -

I don't have the tools to do that (do you, on your other forum? I may have to converse with the admin here.) If you really need the original version, I imagine he can get it for you. But I can't.

[Robert's TM]

I'm wondering if it could bent back?

Are the connecting joints that join the two halves aluminum?

One could brace the floor with 4x4's ( spread the weight ) as long as can be put inside
4x4 at the top inside maybe 10 inches long..... Jack and a post to stretch upward... Towells to keep scratches or scrapes... Possibly may have to put a strap around outside with cushion and boards to stop any other movement.

All that might work.... Or could make it worse...



Have to know what the connectors are made of. Since it bent.... I'm thinking its probably malleable.

[rvcycleguy]

Originally Posted by Robert's TM

I'm wondering if it could bent back?

Are the connecting joints that join the two halves aluminum?

One could brace the floor with 4x4's ( spread the weight ) as long as can be put inside
4x4 at the top inside maybe 10 inches long..... Jack and a post to stretch upward... Towells to keep scratches or scrapes... Possibly may have to put a strap around outside with cushion and boards to stop any other movement.

All that might work.... Or could make it worse...



Have to know what the connectors are made of. Since it bent.... I'm thinking its probably malleable.

What would keep the roof from not sagging back down after you remove the jack post? I think it's lost the integrity internally. I also think the factory could offer some insight into how or why the roof sagged. I'm sure they have the history and experience to have seen almost every possibility of damage over the 35 years of TM.

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

I also think the factory could offer some insight into how or why the roof sagged. I'm sure they have the history and experience to have seen almost every possibility of damage over the 35 years of TM.

I'd certainly be interested in that response as well! I don't like the idea of having to jack up my rear roof, but since I have a few house jacks laying around, at least I have equipment to handle it - IF that would work to fix the problem.....

[Pele2048]

Originally Posted by Bill

Pele2048 -

I don't have the tools to do that (do you, on your other forum? I may have to converse with the admin here.) If you really need the original version, I imagine he can get it for you. But I can't.

If you click on the "Last Edited By" it should give you the option to compare the new version with the old version...

Additions are shown in Green, Deletions are shown in Red.

[Pele2048]

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

I also think the factory could offer some insight into how or why the roof sagged.

Originally Posted by HoMiPa

I'd certainly be interested in that response as well!

I am in contact with Sonja from the parts department at TrailManor.
That was one question I asked them.

Most of the wall consists of:
-Interior Layer of Aluminum
-Expanded Polystyrene foam (Styrofoam)
-Exterior Layer of Aluminum
-External "KrystalKote" Polyester coating

There are some 1" square aluminum tubes, but most of the roofing is what you


They do sell the center trim. It used to be white, but is now being supplied in black. It is shaped like an upside down "U" and has two strips of 3M adhesive tape on the ends. It costs about $2 a foot.

After the trim is applied, the factory installs a fine bead of caulk at either edge of the trim. Nothing is supposed to go under the trim.



What I've done so far is to place a piece of plywood on the floor to protect it from the floor jack. I used a floor jack and a 2x4 to lift up on the roof.

In my pictures I have a 4x4 to distribute the load on the roof. I have removed that 4x4 and replaced it with a bathroom scale turned upside down. It takes just shy of 100 lbs of force to straighten out the roof.







My plan is to install 1.5" angle stock aluminum (1/8th inch thick) on the front edge of the rear shell. (I've removed the original 12 inch long center aluminum bit.) My aluminum will run the full 7 feet from side to side and place the loading closer to the walls.

This angle stock should easily hold 100 lbs with just a bit of deflection. I will use the original mounting holes for the original center aluminum brace and the two bumpers at the edges.

If needed, I will add a second angle bar to replace the curtain rail for the rear bedroom.

[rvcycleguy]

Good work.

[HoMiPa]

This is awesome! And I think completely doable by me on mine. Please post photos of the angle stock aluminum, etc once you start that process. I'm a visual person. :-)

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Pele2048

If you click on the "Last Edited By" it should give you the option to compare the new version with the old version...

Additions are shown in Green, Deletions are shown in Red.

Pele2048 -

We're both talking about post #24, right? It doesn't have a "Last edited by" entry. I do see the "Last edited by" entry on post #29, so I recognize what you are talking about. But for me, it ain't there on #24.

Bill