What kind of anti sway bars ? - Page 4

Shane826 · 12-14-2022, 06:17 AM

Go all the way through the frame. If you have an incident it would rip screws right out. And yeah it wouldn’t hurt to seal those holes somehow.

markozip · 12-14-2022, 02:42 PM

I forgot to mention some additions to make Anderson work with our 2922KS trailer. I [and others] had to modify a bit to avoid a clash of the tension bolts with frame. I did relocate the safety switch closer to truck to make room for the clamps/bolts. I had to buy extra plates and longer bolts to shift the tensioners away from the frame. Pic12 shows the switch moved forward and the plates in front of the safety chains. Notice 2 plates on the outside, you got one with your kit. This places the bolt outwards more and no contact/clash. Pic22's show the space you get now when the bolt is moved over. I had to buy longer grade8 bolts at Farm and Tractor supply for about 2$ each or less. Pic3 shows the other side that had a natural stop against the angled plate. You can see the 2nd outer plate again. If you know a welder, great, get a copy made, but I ordered mine from Anderson. There wasn't a specific part number to order it and the parts guy was at home and not near the manufacturing site so we had confusion. Plates came a week later and all fit. Since the set screw now is of no use, I really had to tighten to freeze the plates in place. If I had a welder, I would tack weld some spots. But what we have now works.

Wavery · 12-14-2022, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephene1219

I already took the cables and break away switch off. So they will be moved. Since on my TM the safety cables were held on by 4: bolts that went all the way though the frame should I fill the old holes with clear silicone, to keep water out of the frame? do I need to drill all the way through the frame again or I I just use a 3/4" screw on the safety chains.

Don't move the safety cables unless you have to, Install your Anderson brackets but just tighten the bolts hand tight. See if you can situate the brackets so that you can still put the safety cables in the same holes.

The Anderson brackets should be mounted so that the top bolt can be as far back against the top of the frame as possible and the bottom bolt as far forward. Then, if you can put the 4" cable bolts in so that the Anderson brackets are firm against the bolts or added washers, that's great. The Anderson brackets will have a tendency to slide forward while you are towing. It's great if the brackets are stopped (from sliding forward) by the cable bolts on the right side. My left side brackets are stopped by the swing away tongue brackets.

I think that I might spot weld my brackets in place on the right side because they still have a tendency to slide. My other thought is to simply run a 1/2" self tapping bolt in the frame. I don't want to tighten the bolts too much for fear of crushing the frame.

markozip · 12-15-2022, 04:29 PM

One more thought about sway. If you try all the suggestions and no results...
Today I looked underneath where the axle is bolted to the frame. Is the axle mounted perpendicular with the frame? In the picture you can see a slot. Is the gap the same on both sides? If the axle is NOT perpendicular with frame a small misalignment [one tire might be more forward than the other] may not appear until you reach the right speed. I am only guessing about this.

Stephene1219 · 12-16-2022, 04:18 PM

I got my Andersen WDH today and sure enough I will need the extra plates as well. I went ahead and attached the two plates and the tension plate on the drivers side. I tightened to 90lbs and the frame did not seem to mind at all. When I order the other two plates tomorrow, I will ask if it is fine to put a self tapping bolt through the same set screw holes and into the frame.. This should keep them from sliding forward. On the door side where is the bracket for the swing away hitch. I checked clearance for the brackets and brackets just clear where it attaches to the frame. The break away cables will be able to be reattached into the same holes after the WDH install. I absolutely hate the break away cables that came with the TM. They are so hard to work with and attach. Mark, thanks so much for the help. I also checked the axel today and everything seems good.

Wavery · 12-24-2022, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephene1219

I got my Andersen WDH today and sure enough I will need the extra plates as well. I went ahead and attached the two plates and the tension plate on the drivers side. I tightened to 90lbs and the frame did not seem to mind at all. When I order the other two plates tomorrow, I will ask if it is fine to put a self tapping bolt through the same set screw holes and into the frame.. This should keep them from sliding forward. On the door side where is the bracket for the swing away hitch. I checked clearance for the brackets and brackets just clear where it attaches to the frame. The break away cables will be able to be reattached into the same holes after the WDH install. I absolutely hate the break away cables that came with the TM. They are so hard to work with and attach. Mark, thanks so much for the help. I also checked the axel today and everything seems good.

I put my chains on the second link and avoided having to go with 2 plates.

The set screw is really a "Pivot point". All of the load is transferred from the chain to the lower end of the frame mounting plates. This forces the lower end forward until the lower mounting bolt contacts the bottom of the frame and the upper mounting bolt contacts the top of the frame. The best solution is to have the bar welded to the frame. You would only need a few inches on the lower part of the bar to keep the bar from sliding forward. On my trailer, that bar is stopped by the hinge bracket in the picture..... problem solved. On the passenger's side I had to loose everything up, slide the bar back in the correct position with the upper bolt hard against the frame and the lower bolt pivoted forward until it was hard against the frame and I put a self tapping screw in the lower part of the frame, to stop the bar from sliding forward.

**Bill** · 12-24-2022, 01:38 PM

Markozip -

Interesting. I was unaware of this slot, but sure enough, it is there. In your photo, it looks like your axle is mounted partway back in the slot. On my TM, the axle is mounted all the way forward in this slot, which obscures it from viewing from below. I have no idea if mis-positioning could cause sway, but it is nice to know the slot is there.

Bill

Quote:

Originally Posted by markozip

7One more thought about sway. If you try all the suggestions and no results...
Today I looked underneath where the axle is bolted to the frame. Is the axle mounted perpendicular with the frame? In the picture you can see a slot. Is the gap the same on both sides? If the axle is NOT perpendicular with frame a small misalignment [one tire might be more forward than the other] may not appear until you reach the right speed. I am only guessing about this.