Noisy water pump - making it quieter

Problems resolved. I installed my transfer pump and everything is working so far (the only thing I didn’t test was hooking up to city water, but I don’t plan to do that often). I went to 3 hardware stores and nobody had anything that was a small enough OD to fit with those gray nuts. In the end I realized that what TM uses between the pump and fresh water tank looks like a standard potable water hose. So that is what I did. I took a 10 foot Camco hose and cut it into sections. The Camco hose package tells you to use a pressure regulator of 45-50 psi, but on amazon it shows the Valverta potable hose can handle up to 160 psi (that seems really high) – and the Camco hose felt beefier / thicker. Anyhow, I hope it will stand up to the pressure long term.

On to the project / pictures:

If you look a few posts back you can see my original configuration (stock 2720 plumbing). First picture in this post shows the city port cut and unscrewed. High pressure drain with push on style shark bite connector on the PEX, and a NPT to barbed fitting attached.

Second picture is my bridge with the three flex attachments (two on right side go to pump and fresh water tank – left side goes to high pressure side), PEX goes to city water port.

Third picture shows the bridge installed. It is kind of a spider web of flex tubes, and I haven’t even replaced the PEX going from the high pressure side of the pump. I had to install it upside down because of the configuration.

That leads to my QUESTION:

Where are the two check valves for the pump and the city water port? My assumption is that the brass thing on the city port has a check valve built in, and the pump itself has a check valve built in. But then I do see two similar looking black pieces at the city port and the high pressure side of the pump (in the third picture – circled in red), and that makes me wonder if those are check valves.

Now, if it is a check valve, I need to leave it in place when I go to install flex tube to reduce the noise. I’m really not sure how to do that, or if I can get a replacement check valve.

If it is NOT a check valve, I’m still not sure exactly how go to a flex from the high pressure side of the pump. I think it is NPT on the pump, so I can just buy a brass or nylon ½” NPT to barb, and when I screw it on, the NPT threads will keep it from leaking right? The only reason I’m hesitant on this is that on the low pressure side of the pump they use a compression type fitting (makes me wonder if I need a similar type fitting, which I can’t find at the hardware store).

Sorry for the long post. My questions in summary:

1) Do you think my use of a Camco potable water hose will stand up to pressure over time? It is reinforced. If the answer is “no” I have no idea where I can find the correct type of reinforced tubing that will fit with my iplumb.tv connection system (small enough OD).
2) Where are the check valves?
3) How do I go from the high side of the pump to flex (dependent on the answer to question 2)?

Thank you all again for your great help. I never would have done this without your support.

[Brittany Dogs]

Nice pictures. It must be nice to have all that room to work. On my 2720 the water pump is under the sink and above the water tank and when I replaced the water pump with a microprocessor controlled pump, I had like 7" to work with and it was a very difficult job.

By the way, I like the microprocessor controlled pumps so much that I removed the pump from my old Coleman pop up camper when I sold it (put the original back in) and then when I got my new TrailManor unit, I replaced the pump in that unit with the microprocessor controlled pump.

The microprocessor controlled pumps do not "cycle" and are nearly silent if you run the water slowly. This is because the DC motor only turns as fast as the water demand requires of it. And for dry camping, running the motor slowly is less power demand on the battery since a cycling motor uses a lot of current when it first starts up.

Originally Posted by Brittany Dogs

... I replaced the water pump with a microprocessor controlled pump ...

Was that a Shur-Flo Extreme Series?

Sounds nice ...

[Brittany Dogs]

Mine is a FloJet Sensor VSD pump. It was well worth the money in my opinion.

Originally Posted by Brittany Dogs

Mine is a FloJet Sensor VSD pump. It was well worth the money in my opinion.

And looks to be a bit cheaper than Shur-Flo's. Wish I had known about this before putting in the accumulator tank ... hmmmm

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by Mike_M

My questions in summary:

1) Do you think my use of a Camco potable water hose will stand up to pressure over time? It is reinforced. If the answer is “no” I have no idea where I can find the correct type of reinforced tubing that will fit with my iplumb.tv connection system (small enough OD).
2) Where are the check valves?
3) How do I go from the high side of the pump to flex (dependent on the answer to question 2)?

1) If the Camco hose is that braided hose shown prominently in your second picture, I think it will do fine over time. However, I got some thick-walled 1/2 reinforced hose for my mod, and it went on fine, so I'm not sure why you had a problem. I had to really tighten it down though. Keep an eye open for leaks the first time or two you are out after you finish the mod, but after that, I certainly wouldn't be paranoid.

2) There is a check valve in the city water connection -- water can go into the TM from the pressurized city water hookup, but can't go back out. The city water thing you have circled has the valve. According to the very handy diagrams ThePair made and posted in post #32 of this thread, there is also a check valve on the outlet side of the pump -- looks like it could be the connector that screws onto the pump directly, which, again, is what you have circled. I don't know for sure. There is NOT a check valve in the pump, I know that for sure as I confirmed that with the manufacturer some time ago.

3) On the high side of the pump, I connected the tubing with a fitting exactly like the on that was on the low side. On the other end of that tubing, I used a fitting with a barb on one end and 1/2" male threads on the other. The PEX connector that screws onto the pump in the factory setup screws onto those threads.

Hope this helps! Let us know if you need more help.

Dave