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Old 01-26-2011, 07:43 PM   #41
Brutus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv View Post
I have all the 12 and 14G marine wire that a guy would need to re-wire a boat. I also have hundreds of heat-shrink crimp connectors.

Some people mentioned reaching those wire by removing the radio. Is it easier to just pull the fridge out a bit?
For me, it was easier to move the fridge out. Biggest thing there is you have to lift up the wood strip at the front base of the fridge. I got it lifted up without breaking it by using a large flathead screwdriver. It's just stapled to the floor. Once you pull the fridge out roughly 5", the four connections are staring at you. Pretty simple, even for an electrical novice like me.
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:02 PM   #42
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OK............I replaced those wires today and the fridge works perfectly again.

Thank you guys for your help.

For me, it was a lot easier to just remove the upper outside panel then remove the inside baffle (3-screws), pull out the insulation and the wires were right there (like commodor47 suggested).

I made 2 wires with 12G wire (that's all I had in red & blue ). The originals were 18G but I don't think that the bigger ones will hurt anything.....they work.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:49 PM   #43
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Glad it worked for you too Wayne. Another one for the win column!
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:34 PM   #44
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Default pilot staying on

I have replaced the wires and it worked for a year or so. Then I replaced the thermocouple and got another year out of it. This year I found that the burner was dirty and cleaned it with a brass brush, now the pilot will stay on.
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Old 02-13-2011, 09:03 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Harry Womack View Post
I have replaced the wires and it worked for a year or so. Then I replaced the thermocouple and got another year out of it. This year I found that the burner was dirty and cleaned it with a brass brush, now the pilot will stay on.
Thanks for the info Harry! I'll keep an eye out for that in the future.
r/Pat
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:14 PM   #46
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Default Just got the 2720 home and now starting the mods

Just got our 04 home and noticed the Norcold did not work. Found this site and this week I will start the mod. Exactly as described, pilot light goes to green and then when I release valve, pilot light goes out with nothing happening. Hope you guys are still around in case I need help. John from Tampa. Thanks again for a place to start. Fridge works great on 110v.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:27 PM   #47
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Many people have done the mod.

Because mine was still under warranty I had the dealer install the Norcold factory service bulletin.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:13 PM   #48
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Default Thanks to All

After fixing my "Neutral Ground" problem because of a shorted heating element in my water heater, I read all the posts regarding the refrigerator problem with propane and not staying lit. I pulled the Refrigerator out about 5 inches and installed new wires I prepared from the Posts information. Everything works fine and I now finally have a true "3 way" Refrigerator.

Thanks again. Joining the Forum and reading the posts is saving us alot of time and money, and we get the pleasure of interacting with others.
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:26 PM   #49
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Default I did the mod also and it worked

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate your help. It works great. John
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:44 PM   #50
J&C&L&K
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Default 2004 - 2619 Same problem with flame going out.

Just bought a 2004 model 2619 from an individual. Tested everything today and found that the flame would go out on the fridge when I release the gas button. I am going to try this over the weekend and see if it works. Sounds like the exact same issue.
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