Plugging into 110 volt while TM is in garage

[RottieMom]

Sean, here's an option to consider--

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=16098

My battery is under my sofa inside the TM, so the easiest way I found, with Bill's instructions, was to use the Bargman with my battery tender.

[seanlou]

Thanks RottieMom!

[flipflop]

To recap this, maybe I have it correct:

1. Later models like my 2008 2619 (when closed) have a 15A 3-prong AC plug under a hatch on the rear left side of the trailer.

2. This 15A 3-prong is fine for keeping the batteries charged, and overcomes the parasitic loads.

3. This 15A 3-prong, continuously plugged in, will not overcharge the batteries. The factory electronics function as a high-quality battery tender.

Correct?

(I have the dual 6V batteries on the tongue, no modifications that I can see, looks to be stock everything, control panels, everything)

[TrailManorMan]

Most of us won't agree, the charger built in is just not a great charger.
While it will be fine week to week I won't use it over long periods of time, I prefer removing my batteries and using a good battery tender, worked for me for many years. My batteries sit about six months for winter on a battery tender.

[BrucePerens]

Originally Posted by flipflop

The factory electronics function as a high-quality battery tender.

Correct?

If the 2008's still had the WFCO converter, no.

[flipflop]

Originally Posted by BrucePerens

If the 2008's still had the WFCO converter, no.

Yep, the 2008 has the WFCO converter, has a sticker on the fuse panel coverplate proclaiming such.

To clarify, this 2008 not only has the bigheaded roundended power cable stored under the rear bumper cover (which you cannot access unless you open up the trailer) it also has an adapter on it that converts it to a 3-prong male AC plug that you can plug into a house AC outlet via everyday extension cord.

This 3-prong male AC plug is available when the trailer is closed via an access port at the left rear of the trailer. So the later models at least you have the ability to run AC to the trailer with the trailer closed.

If you want to access campground power (aka 'shore power') you open the trailer, remove the bumper cover, disconnect the 3-prong adapter, plug into shore power.

I'm not advocating one setup over another, just trying to get the facts straight in as few posts as possible.

It's been an informative and helpful thread. Learned to be wary of the WFCO converter plugged in all the time, learned about 6V batteries amperage vs 12V batteries amperage, learned about the solar system.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by flipflop

... To clarify, this 2008 not only has the bigheaded roundended power cable stored under the rear bumper cover (which you cannot access unless you open up the trailer)...

Turns out this is not correct. If you release the rear corner latches, the shell rises just a tiny bit, which takes the pressure off the bumper cover. You can then pull the cover off. Replace it the same way. This has worked in both my 2002 2720SL (diamond plate steel bumper cover) and my 2006 2720SL (plastic bumper cover).

I haven't used the mouse hole in years. It's cute, but is simply too inconvenient.

Bill

[Padgett]

I use the mousehole but have no problem removing the rear bumper cover when closed. Tight but slides right out. Is my '06 2720SL different ?

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Padgett

I use the mousehole but have no problem removing the rear bumper cover when closed. Tight but slides right out. Is my '06 2720SL different?

Not sure if your question refers to the mousehole or the bumper cover.

I gave up on the mousehole for a number of reasons, not all of which will apply to everyone else.
1. The cord is really difficult to push back into the mousehole when it is cold - too stiff, and it doesn't want to coil.
2. When pushed aggressively back into the mousehole, it sometimes twists instead of coiling neatly, and that makes it jam when it comes out. Straightening the jam-up is annoying, especially if you are doing it in the rain.
3. The mousehole cover kept coming off and getting lost as I drove, and I got tired of replacing it. I think it came loose when I was pulling a cold cord out of the mousehole.
4. TM changed the storage location of the cord. For a while, the mousehole led to an area behind a false wall in the back of the tool compartment. This kept the cord out of the way, and kept a grubby cord from making everything else dirty. A good idea, I thought. But then they changed the mousehole so it leads directly into the small compartment in the streetside end of the bumper. I decided to stow the cord directly into that compartment, and avoid annoyances 1, 2, and 3 above.

As I say, these reasons don't apply to everyone.

Bill

[flipflop]

Originally Posted by Bill

Turns out this is not correct. If you release the rear corner latches, the shell rises just a tiny bit, which takes the pressure off the bumper cover. You can then pull the cover off. Replace it the same way. This has worked in both my 2002 2720SL (diamond plate steel bumper cover) and my 2006 2720SL (plastic bumper cover).

I haven't used the mouse hole in years. It's cute, but is simply too inconvenient.

Bill

Ah, ok, that's interesting. This pic is opened up as it sits in the driveway now (I pulled the Barger connector out only to show the 3-prong adapter plug).

But it seems that the male 3-prong can stay INSIDE the mousehole. You run an extension cord into the mousehole and can still lock the mousehole cover closed.

Of course, with the trailer closed up and locked down, I'd have the bumper cover on and the 3-prong connection made inside the mousehole with the mousehole cover locked also.

I'll be sure to treat the mousehole cover with Aerospace 303 so it doesn't become brittle and wither away someday.

I'm still not sure if the factory solar with the WFCO electronics overcharges the batteries. Doesn't seem like it does, since even with a bright sunny day the panel only read 'good'. Plugging in the orange extension cord in the picture the panel jumped up to 'charged'.

Question: I pulled the faceplate off of the radio, does that eliminate the radio's parasitic loss????

By the way, I see you have 15" tires. Are those stock or did you modify? Can I get 15-inchers on this 2619 with the round wheelwells?