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Old 02-24-2005, 06:18 PM   #1
rpcoombs
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Smile TM factory to automate rise/lower function

I've heard that TM is studying a mechanism which would electrically power the raise/lower function. It doesn't seem to be too hard given the present system's counterweight (torsion bar) system. I think that would almost double sales given the fact that the TM's price is generally only in the reach of us "Baby Boomers" and we find it harder to "get it up"! I only hope they will make a retrofit kit given the fact I have invested over $3,000 in solar panels, custom options, etc. What say you (not to steal from a right wing talk radio host --- wonder which side of the aisle most TM' owners are but that's another question)? Cheers, Dick
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:27 PM   #2
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As you pointed out, baby boomers and even more so laters, like their dodads. The more Tech it is the more we want it. I think it is great.
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Old 02-26-2005, 06:24 PM   #3
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Some skepticism here... After all, one of the good points about these units is that they require no mechanical input other than modest body leverage. Putting power on it has the potential to increase cost, plus give us all one more thing to maintain and/or replace.

That said, I'm a (relatively) fit 36 year-old. I understand that someone who is limited in their physical movement might wish for assistance.

Perhaps this should be an extra-cost option, and easily disconnected (like, pull a pin or something) so that if it fails one can simply raise the shells normally, as if the motor weren't there at all.

FWIW...

Steve
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:12 PM   #4
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I'd much rather have an electric jack for the tongue. It's a lot more work cranking it up and down than it is raising and lowering the trailer.

Wayne
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Old 03-01-2005, 05:09 PM   #5
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Cool Automation

I vote for powered stabilizer jacks. Raising and lowering the shells is really quite easy, if you lower the end your trying to raise, lowering them is almost automatic. I'm 73 years old and find no problems with my TM. It will add more weight, more mechanical headaches and there goes the battery if you boondocking. No, I like what I have.
I realize there may be a market for automation, but I feel this would head the TM in the wrong direction.

Jack
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Old 03-19-2005, 05:35 PM   #6
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Default My perspective

From my angle, I'd go for small battery powered motors on the leveling jacks that the newer models have. All four (4) of them. Having to bend over is rough on this bad back; and invaribly, having to 'tweak' them takes a lot of bending and cranking. It'd be nice to simply put the footing board under the jack base and 'press the button' to adjust ... rather than crank ... crank ... crank ... well, you get the idea.
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Old 03-19-2005, 06:09 PM   #7
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I don,t know what all the concern is about power this and power that! My wife has no trouble at all !!!
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Old 03-20-2005, 05:05 PM   #8
Bill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalberdash
From my angle, I'd go for small battery powered motors on the leveling jacks that the newer models have. All four (4) of them. Having to bend over is rough on this bad back; and invaribly, having to 'tweak' them takes a lot of bending and cranking. It'd be nice to simply put the footing board under the jack base and 'press the button' to adjust ... rather than crank ... crank ... crank ... well, you get the idea.
dalberdash -

You are aware of the quick-and-dirty solution to this, right? Get a cheap battery-powered reversible electric drill. Also get a reasonably large allen wrench - 1/4" is a nice size. Chuck the long end of the allen wrench in the drill. Slip the small end of the allen wrench through the crank-hole in the jack. Pull the trigger, and ZIP! It's done.

This is real simple. Others will suggest slightly more complex versions of the same solution - also good. By the way, a lightweight drill will lower the jack to the ground, and set it firmly there, but that's all. If you actually want to raise the trailer using the jacks, you'll need a heavy-duty drill.

Bill
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Old 03-20-2005, 06:54 PM   #9
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Default Jacks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
dalberdash -

You are aware of the quick-and-dirty solution to this, right? Get a cheap battery-powered reversible electric drill. Also get a reasonably large allen wrench - 1/4" is a nice size. Chuck the long end of the allen wrench in the drill. Slip the small end of the allen wrench through the crank-hole in the jack. Pull the trigger, and ZIP! It's done.

This is real simple. Others will suggest slightly more complex versions of the same solution - also good. By the way, a lightweight drill will lower the jack to the ground, and set it firmly there, but that's all. If you actually want to raise the trailer using the jacks, you'll need a heavy-duty drill.

Bill
Yes Bill, very aware of that.

Your last sentence part covers the issue. If the factory offers the battery powered version, then there'd be no need to switch to the hand method when you make contact with the ground.
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Old 03-21-2005, 01:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
If the factory offers the battery powered version, then there'd be no need to switch to the hand method when you make contact with the ground.
I wasn't as clear as I hoped. A lightweight drill will set the jack pad firmly. In fact, if needed, it will raise the TM perhaps half an inch - but not more. You would need a heavyweight drill only if you haven't levelled the TM, and have to lift the entire TM using the jacks.

When I pull into a campsite, I level the TM on a few scraps of board that I carry on the tongue. Having done so, a lightweight drill is fine for setting the jacks, and I never get out the hand crank and "switch to the hand method". Others of us don't pre-level, preferring to use the jacks to lift the TM into level position. If you are in this group, that's fine. To each his own.

I agree with you, I would hate to lift the TM using the hand crank. Perhaps TM will offer optional electric jacks in the future. My personal feeling is that the cost, the weight, the battery drain (for those of us who dry camp), the complexity and associated failures (these jacks are right down in the water, salt, and mud kicked up from the road) would not be worth it. To me, levelling on boards, then using my $10 drill, is much easier and more reliable. YMMV.

Bill
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