Torsion bars adjusted to max.

[coralcruze]

My torsion bars are already adjusted to the max. The front shell is difficult to open without additional torsion at this point. From my understanding the torsion vars are a lifetime warranty on these trailers. What's the process of getting these bars replaced? Obviously a trip to the factory but how does one go about setting this up and how long of a stay would be needed to get something like this completed by the factory. Has anyone had to do this? I would love to hear from you.

[ShrimpBurrito]

My understanding, at least when the factory was in Tennessee, was that this warranty only applied to the original owner. So if you didn't buy it new, there was no warranty. I don't know what the warranty terms are with the current company, which is a different entity with different owners/management.

Dave

[Ramblin' Rec]

I'm also interested in what you find out, as I have the same situation with my 2020 2720QS.
In the meantime, you can try lowering the front of the trailer using the tongue jack before opening the shell, then leveling the trailer after it's open. I haven't tried it myself yet, but I read about it here, so it must work. ;-)

[Shane826]

To set up service you’d call either the factory or a known service center*. Keep in mind just because a dealer SELLS TrailManor doesn’t mean they know how to service TM specific parts.

TrailManor Service
605-999-9605
[email protected]

*”Known” Service Centers
MCD RV Cape Cod, MA
Custom RV Hawaiian Gardens, CA
Van City RV Colorado Springs, CO (Rumor has it they won’t work on anything more than 10 years old)


As for replacing the torsion bars, the factory could likely do all 8 in a day. They have a ceiling hoist to lift the shells and all kinds of dollies to move them around the shop. That’s the hardest part. After that the bars are easy to replace. Once I figured out how to crack open a TrailManor I could probably do them over the course of a weekend including getting everything dialed in afterwards.

[jagizzi]

Shane,

Have you written up the procedure for splitting the shells? It would be a great thing to have access to at some point.

[Shane826]

It’s pretty simple. The hardest part is you have to disconnect any wires running up the lift arms. Disconnect middle lift arm pins, push the shell outward onto something to support it. The front or rear lift arms act as a pivot. A couple old tires work well as a cushion.

If you need to go the other way, leave the cables and pins connected to the middle lift arms, disconnect the outer lift arm pins, then lift the front or rear edge upward off the lift arms and support the shell. TrailManor Geek YouTube shows how to even use the tongue jack to do the lifting for lifting the outer ends.

If you just need to get the shell off the lift arm to replace a torsion bar or lift arm and you’re not looking for a ton of clearance, you can lift the shell off whichever pair of lift arms, then slide an 8ft 2x4 across the top edge of the lower box and rest the shell on the 2x4.

One person can do it, definitely easier with two, and rooftop A/C definitely will add some weight lifting the front shell. And obviously always have one pair of lift arms connected to each shell.

When I crack this project 2720 open again this summer I’ll try to get some pictures or maybe even video.

[coralcruze]

Originally Posted by Shane826

It’s pretty simple. The hardest part is you have to disconnect any wires running up the lift arms. Disconnect middle lift arm pins, push the shell outward onto something to support it. The front or rear lift arms act as a pivot. A couple old tires work well as a cushion.

If you need to go the other way, leave the cables and pins connected to the middle lift arms, disconnect the outer lift arm pins, then lift the front or rear edge upward off the lift arms and support the shell. TrailManor Geek YouTube shows how to even use the tongue jack to do the lifting for lifting the outer ends.

If you just need to get the shell off the lift arm to replace a torsion bar or lift arm and you’re not looking for a ton of clearance, you can lift the shell off whichever pair of lift arms, then slide an 8ft 2x4 across the top edge of the lower box and rest the shell on the 2x4.

One person can do it, definitely easier with two, and rooftop A/C definitely will add some weight lifting the front shell. And obviously always have one pair of lift arms connected to each shell.

When I crack this project 2720 open again this summer I’ll try to get some pictures or maybe even video.

Wow, looks like you have this one figured out. That is quite a task... I hope I don't have to go there but please post a link if you do a video. I am sure people could benefit greatly.

So I think I may actually have to release some tension in the middle torsion bars which should allow the front to rise evenly with the middle better. I think thats my issue afterall...not the torsion bars themselves. Its a badly needed alignment lol.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by coralcruze

Wow, looks like you have this one figured out. That is quite a task... I hope I don't have to go there but please post a link if you do a video. I am sure people could benefit greatly.

So I think I may actually have to release some tension in the middle torsion bars which should allow the front to rise evenly with the middle better. I think thats my issue afterall...not the torsion bars themselves. Its a badly needed alignment lol.

That is a possibility. When you release all 4 bar clamps for the front shell, check the height of rise in the center. If the rear end of the front shell has risen more than about 6" above the still-clamped rear shell, then it's possibly pushing the front of the shell forwards and down by too large a factor. In that case, lowering the front end (on the A-frame jack) to provoke more forward movement could accentuate the problem with "somewhat weak front bars" problem even more.

The "lower the front" strategy is primarily for addressing problems at the end of the lift, helping to pull the already-lifted shell more forward (to reach it's final and most forward position).
- - -
But, if the front bars are extremely weak and your problem occurs at the very beginning of the lift, the opposite strategy might work better. Leave the excess gap at the center present, or even increase it a bit with respect to a leveled TM. In this strategy, you raise the front jack a lot for both raising and lowering. (Be absolutely sure to have the wheels chocked, or the TM will slide backwards on the rear leaving jacks.)

The resulting 'tilt', towards the rear, moves more of the shell weight onto the rear support arms. You keep raising the front jack, until the center 'rise' above the rear shell is reduced, by front shell weight being focused on the rear lifts, into the intended range of 4-7". Your lift at the very front end should be easier - but pushing it all down, with extra-strong center bars, will be harder (you have to raise the front jack for both directions).

The complex balancing act in this strategy is between getting enough assistance at the start versus pulling the shell sideways and somewhat UPHILL at the end. In the long term, you and I should both have those front bars replaced.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Shane826

TrailManor Service
605-999-9605
[email protected]

*”Known” Service Centers
MCD RV Cape Cod, MA
Custom RV Hawaiian Gardens, CA
Van City RV Colorado Springs, CO (Rumor has it they won’t work on anything more than 10 years old)

If that's true, they are probably afraid that they might have to actually "work" to fix something.

[Shane826]

Originally Posted by Wavery

If that's true, they are probably afraid that they might have to actually "work" to fix something.

Hadn’t thought of that. I figured they didn’t want to open Pandora’s Box with things like water damage and wood rot.