spare tire carrier: mod to prevent "mashed" sidewall

[rickst29]

As I learned here (by reading other Threads), the TM spare tire carrier causes "deep impressions" in the sidewall of the spare tire over time. The entire weight of the tire and wheel is supported only by the 4 small points of contact at which the tire crosses the two supporting tubes.

Seeing this damage already occurring in my own spare, I went to a steel fabrication place and had them cut two plates of 1/8" steel, each 8" by 18". (If I had another chance, I'd make them even 19" or 20" long, but 18" really is good enough.)

The plates rest on top of the supporting tubes. The first photo shows a plate (painted), with holes drilled close to one side (look below the hardware). These holes should be near one side, and NOT in the middle.
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Second photo shows the assembly, with both plates bolted in place. Because the tire weights a lot and squeezes down (hard) on the plates, I feel that only one hanger is needed for each plate-- on the tube near the front end of the TM. Just one is sufficient to assure no movement after the tire is loaded on top.

I used hangers, instead of welding because (1) it allows for adjustment after seeing where the tire lies; (2) the metal tube is awfully thin; and (3) hangers with nuts and stabilizer bars, plus lockwashers, costs next to nothing.
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Third photo shows the assembly after putting on the tire. This is upside down (I flipped it over to show the UNDERSIDE to the camera). The "circle" at which the tire is widest now rides on the plates for many, many inches (instead of just the four tiny contact points which occured before adding the plates). The 1/8" steel is strong enough to have almost no flex, but also thin enough to avoid consuming too much of the distance below the TM floor. My spare has always ridden tight against the TM, but this 1/8" makes almost no difference at all.

You do need to place the plates so that the hanger bolts and nuts are in free space under the rim, not hitting tire rubber. That's why I drilled the holes in a "mirrored" fashion, close to the edge of the plate. In picture #3, you can see that the plates are positioned so that the bolts are under the wheel, and not the tire.

Sweet!!!

Any reason you didn't use aluminum??

mtnguy

[Bill]

Very nice installation, and a good solution to the issue.

I would also like to see a non-welded mod that would lower the parked position of the carrier about 1/2" toward the ground. With a fully aired up spare, mine is so tight that it is VERY difficult to raise the carrier enough to engage the support bracket on the curb side. I end up having to pry the carrier upward with a big screwdriver, and then push it in with my feet.

I suspect that lowering either end of the assembly by 1/2" would be sufficient. But I don't see an easy way to accomplish it without getting a welder involved. Ideas?

Bill

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

Any reason you didn't use aluminum??
mtnguy

Nice idea. Aluminum would've cost more, but avoid any need for painting (and possible future "issues" between the paint and the tire sidewall).

There's two reasons I didn't: #1, I knew a convenient place to go for iron and steel (they don't stock aluminum); #2, Mr. dummy didn't think of it! Hey, it's my first mod ever and didn't turn out too bad.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by Bill

I would also like to see a non-welded mod that would lower the parked position of the carrier about 1/2" toward the ground. With a fully aired up spare, mine is so tight that it is VERY difficult to raise the carrier enough to engage the support bracket on the curb side.
I suspect that lowering either end of the assembly by 1/2" would be sufficient. But I don't see an easy way to accomplish it without getting a welder involved. Ideas?
Bill

Yes, Bill I now have the same problem-- and it's 1/8" worse than yours, I need to jack up the carrier to get the and then whack it with a mallet (my version of your kicking) to get the holes lined up to insert the stabilizers bolts (and their clips after insertion).

Here's the non-welding fix I'm gonna do after we get back from this trip:

On the CARRIER, cut off the two vertical bars (curb side), about halfway up. then drill two holes above and below each end by about 1". Cut holes in dual "extension plates" to provide a gap. (two for each of the current vertical bars will avoid torque force completely, although I might use only one). High grade bolts and lock washers, torque it up, paint, done. I think a 1/2" inch gap sounds about right for me, with the 1/8" plate added.

I'll provide pics when I do it, of course.

No changes

[Bill]

Ha! Great solution! Can't wait for photos, but I think I'll just plan to do it after my annual migration to Maine.

By the way, I might try something similar, but on the roadside end of the carrier, rather than the curbside end of the carrier. Reason? My blue tote won't QUITE fit in the empty space on the road side of the spare tire. I would really like to carry it there.

Bill

[Joe]

I'm going to put the spare in the truck. After reading about the marks on the spare and then checking the spare on our new 3124, I've decided to take it off and put it in the back of our GMC Sierrra. The difficulty of pulling the spare out while the TM was in the driveway with the stablizing jacks down convinced me that it would be very difficult to remove the spare on the side of the road with a flat tire. Getting it out of the pickup would be a 'piece of cake' compared to that.

[Bill]

My experience?

Pulling out the spare tire rack with a fully inflated spare on it? Easy.
Pushing the rack back with the flat tire on it? Easy.
Pushing the rack back into place with a new, fully inflated spare on it? Oh, my!

BTW, I really like this spare tire carrier compared to the older rear-bumper carrier.

Bill

[CAmark]

I have not had my spare down yet so this may be an impossible work around but IF the equipment is available, could the spare be loaded to the TM in the 1/2 inflated configuration, then, after raising the carrier bar, be inflated to "full-up" with a 12v or 120v compressor.
Mark

Originally Posted by CAmark

I have not had my spare down yet so this may be an impossible work around but IF the equipment is available, could the spare be loaded to the TM in the 1/2 inflated configuration, then, after raising the carrier bar, be inflated to "full-up" with a 12v or 120v compressor.
Mark

Interesting idea!

But I would make sure that I had a good 12v compressor....might be a little had to find a 120v recepticle on the side of the road.

Anyone: Would the sidewall be compromised under partial inflation??

mtnguy