Help! Damaged Trailer to Vehicle Power Cord!

[hinxster]

Our German Shepherd chewed through the black power cable that leads from the trailer to the vehicle. Most of the wires within the black casing have been compromised about 2 feet from the connector that mates with the plug on our tow vehicle.

I don't think that splicing and repairing the wires within the cable would be wise. I'm worried that the only option is to replace the entire length of cable. Unfortunately, I can't tow the trailer to get it fixed because there's no power to the taillights or electric brakes.

Where does the other end of the cable terminate? Can a replacement be purchased and, if so, where from? Has anyone else experienced this or had to replace their cable? I am mechanically inclined, but is the replacement of this cable a fairly straight forward process?

I appreciate any help, guidance and/or suggestions from others in this forum. We have camping plans soon that I hope we don't have to cancel!

[Bill]

Slow down and breathe deeply. Everything is OK!

First, I agree that trying to repair the cable is not the best plan. The fact that the repair would be outside in the weather, subject to water and road grime and salt, would make a repair kind of iffy. But if you decide to repair the existing cable, make sure to solder all the joints, and get some self-fusing rubber splicing tape. I get mine at Ace Hardware, but Lowe's and Home Depot probably have it too. To see it, go to www.acehardware.com and type 30986 into the Search box. You wrap this tape tightly around the joint, in overlapping layers, and the layers melt together and form a solid rubber watertight seal. By the way, the clerk at Ace may not know he has this stuff - just ask for electrical tape, and then look around the nearby area.

Second, on many models, including the 2720, the cable is routed under the road side of the TM and terminates under the kitchen sink. The termination is made with ordinary wire nuts, nothing elaborate.

Third, yes you can get a replacement cable, and it is not hard to install. I have seen them in RV stores, though with the LONG cable length, they are not a common item. Best bet might be to get one from the TM factory. Give them a call - they are very good about sending out replacement parts. Talk to Ed Lytle if you can - Ed is great!

Sorry you have to go through this, but it's nothing to really worry about. We have a nibbling dog, too.

Bill

[hinxster]

Bill,

Alright, I've caught my breath! Thank you for the wonderful information. I would much prefer to get a replacement cable, so I'll be contacting the factory this week. I was worried that the cable terminated at the power converter box. If that's not the case, you're right, it should be an easy fix.

Just about any trailer place should be able to repair this if you are not comfortable doing it. If it is not to far, you should be able to take it to them. Go slow as you will have no brakes. Have someone follow you since the lights do not work.

[Denny_A]

My pigtail connection separated from my new trailer on our first trip. Dec., 2006! I discovered the problem at the Tennessee welcome center just after leaving KY! Bummer. The road had ground down the connection plug, shredded 2' of cable casing and bared 5 of 7 wires. Bummer.

A nice man from a nearby KY town replaced my entire cable and plug in 30 minutes (after waiting 3 hours for his arrival).

He removed the entire cable from its connection point to the underside of the trailer (not a TM, but same process I'm sure). He cut a 7 wire RV cable to length + some extra. Stripped the wires for the trailer connection and crimped connector loops to each. He secured them with the nuts which came from the trailer.

Then he performed a continuity check from the trailer to the wires at the the other end of the cable, then cut to the finish length. He used my diagram (which I heisted from Bill) of the configuration of both the trailer connector and the Tow Vehicle connector. After a bit of checking to ensure the wires going to the new plug were crimped to the proper points, he slid a waterproof sleeve over the whole plug.

The full function test was anti-climatic. All worked perfectly on the first try.

Now having seen it done by a professional in 1/2 hour, I know it would take me no more than, say, 2 days to do it myself. After all, I would do a lot to save $210.

I imagine a local RV sales/maintenance business could do the same for the TrailManor - for less than my emergency repair cost - if all other solution fail b4 your scheduled trip. Bona fortuna!

Denny_A

[B_and_D]

Originally Posted by Denny_A

My pigtail connection separated from my new trailer on our first trip. Dec., 2006! I discovered the problem at the Tennessee welcome center just after leaving KY! Bummer. The road had ground down the connection plug, shredded 2' of cable casing and bared 5 of 7 wires. Bummer.

Denny_A

And we've had that happen to us too, but in our case just the cable itself was apparently dragging on the ground and most all of the wires were ground down. We made a "quick" fix ourselves (there was an auto supply store nearby and we were on the way to Yosemite; we didn't want to waste time waiting for someone to come help us in Mariposa) but had it replaced when we got home. I don't know how long we drove along like that.

After that incident, we always travel with the trailer running lights/truck headlamps on. I'm constantly looking back to see if they're on, whether I'm driving or not. That way we can tell if the electricity isn't getting through to the trailer (at least to the lights), and that would mean that we need to pull over and find out what's going on.

We have not had that happen, and the reason is that I always fasten the extra cable to the jack with a small Bungee. It's the kind with a ball on the end for fastening tarps. There is enough slack in our cord that if I didn't Bungee it, it could drag on the ground. I also route the cord around the right side of the jack and back to the left to the plug on the TV. The Bungee mostly keeps the cord from rubbing on the trailer frame and such. You can buy the seven-way wire at almost any RV store or truck parts/supply store (read NAPA). You can buy the plug at Wal-Mart if you need a new one.

I would consider using marine grade wire for any electrical repairs where the wire may be exposed to the weather. I would also consider using heat shrink tubing to cover it up.

To prevent my power cord from dragging I wrap it once around the tongue jack. I still have too much cord, but at least it won't bind on anything or touch he ground.

My cable became damaged somehow by the WDH mechanism on my trip home when new. It looked like it had been pinched as it was slit lengthwise.

Firstly, I repaired it using crimped connections and black tape while on the road. I got these parts at an auto repair store.

Secondly, to prevent this from happening, I wrapped bungee cord around the jack head (1 loop) and pulled the bungee down to grasp the cable mid span. This both holds the cable from dragging and away from the sway bars.

Thirdly, I check my cable by a) reading the Prodigy controller ("c" means "connected") and testing the brakes using the manual brake lever.

Forthly, when I disconnect, I put the cable connector between the propane tanks to hold it so it won't drag if I do forget to connect it.

One time I forgot to connect the cable and after 20 miles made the realization. I was very happy to find that the cable had not been dragging because of the bungee.

Now, I do have another cable problem. My 110V cable worked its way out of the bumper while on my way home from Mexico a year ago. By the time I saw it in the mirror and pulled over the electrical contacts had been ground shorter . I purchased a replacement connector but have been hesitant to install it. I don't like the idea of this being in any way loose as the OEM part is molded and this one more open. Maybe I can fill it with silicon rubber to keep water out?

Now that I am retired, I should have time to make these repairs..... Life is good!