The drain valves I leave open to let the system breathe. Just my theory. I have subzero temps to 80F while the unit is in storage. In spring when I "summerize" the system, I use a weak bleach solution in the water tank and after it sits for a bit, I turn on the pump to push some of that water into the pipes and out the drains for a quart or two. That should get rid of any bugs or dust that unlikely entered the drain valve areas. Then once the fresh water tank is sanitized I drain the weak bleach solution (1/4 cup to 20 gallons) and fill up with fresh water. Then run that in the lines and hot water tank. Then drain that.
For the gray water tank, I bought a replacement pipe cap, like $3 or so, drilled several small holes in that and use that cap over winter with the valve wide open.
I also remove the anode rod in the hot water tank, drain the water in fall, clean out the tank, siphon out the water above the drain hole, then replace the anode rod with only one turn for the winter. Then in spring I rinse the tank again once, put new Teflon tape on the threads and then screw that in.
__________________
2011, Model 2720SD, 13.5k btu Dometic Low Profile Penguin II with a user installed Easy-Start modification, "Jack" TV Antenna, 15" Goodyear Marathon 225/75R15D Tires on Alloy Wheels, Swing Hitch, Electric Tongue Jack, Front Window (now an option). Powered with a Honda 2000i or 3000 handi (depending on the weather) generator when dry camping. Powered with two 6V Trojan T145 batteries when I need to run silent and deep. TV = 2016 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab w/ WDH.
Home Port: Western New York.
|