Leveling on uneven ground - best method??

Would appreciate some tips. We like to boon dock and often end up on sites which are not level. Have been using the interlocking "lego type" blocks under the stabilizing jacks. Often we end up with one wheel entirely off the ground in order to get the TM level. Boy!   can it be a challenge to lift the weight of the TM with the stabilizing jacks on the TM's low side. We decided a couple of hydraulic jacks might make it easier. In reading the threads on where to place the jacks, came across this one which makes it sound like what we have been doing is bad for the frame:

http://tretta.hypermart.net/cgi-bin/...345099;start=5

Please share thoughts and experiences.

Betty Ann

Betty Ann;

I had those same questions.  Some have said about using boards or the leveling blocks and using the jacks just for stabilizers.  Then I saw a few posts in the forum that quoted the owners handbook that used the stailizers for leveling.  Is it possible that the older TM had jacks that would only stabilize, and the newer ones actually use the stabilizers for leveling.  I'm sort of as confused as you -- is it or isn't it bad for the frame, and does it only apply to the older TMs?

I don't know if this helps, we've only had our tm for a little over a year but have used it app. 30 nights.

When on really uneven ground side to side I use the legos under the wheel to kind of even things up side to side. I have no problems taking some of the weight with the jacks but have never moved a tire off the ground or legos.  I don't jack one really high then go jack the other, I try to move each a little at a time.

I figure using a little moderation in this as in all things can't be too wrong. If the jacks weren't ment to be used why would they put them on there? Of course the tm is only a year old maybe not enough time to see if I have done something wrong but all looks right to me. If using the jacks is such a bad thing wouldn't someone have gotten a used one that had a twisted frame? I've seen no post to that problem. Tire wear would be a major clue if a frame weren't right, I've seen no post to that problem. I agree that it is better safe than sorry but I also think not using the jacks to help level is going too far. When I baught my tm the the guy said use the rear door side jack to start the side to side leveling and move clock wise to get as it should be. I do that.

Hi all -

I still don't have a trailer, but in doing a lot of shopping & research I have read/heard over & over that the proper way to stabilize a trailer (not just a TM) is to level side-to-side using blocks of some type (the "Lego" type or just wood planks - I've seen people with 2x8's that they beveled the edges to drive up them easily), then level front-to-back using the tongue crank.  The jacks on any trailer (generally, they are "options" not standard equipment) are only to stabilize the trailer.  Using them to lift the weight of a trailer can seriously damage the frame of the trailer.

Incidentally, I learned something from a campground owner this spring:  He said to NEVER back a vehicle onto blocks for leveling (motorhome or towed vehicle) because the reverse gear doesn't have the same power or torque as the low gear, and you risk damaging your transmission.  

I just love learning from those that have "been there, done that" a million times!

Thanks for the input. I thought I had read everything on this and the old forum when we bought the TM last summer but didn't absorb sufficient info on leveling. This year we are more adventuresome and have done more boon docking. Since I posted my question I found this tread under door jamming:

http://tretta.hypermart.net/cgi-bin/...d=maintenance; action=display;num=1055300457

From reading this thread, it looks like a ramp arrangement under the wheel we've been raising off the ground is a good idea. Even if twisting the frame is not an issue, the sheer muscle power involved in raising the low side is awesome. Don't need a husband to have a heart attack Complicated leveling also can be time consuming.

Betty Ann

Hi all -

Incidentally, I learned something from a campground owner this spring:  He said to NEVER back a vehicle onto blocks for leveling (motorhome or towed vehicle) because the reverse gear doesn't have the same power or torque as the low gear, and you risk damaging your transmission.  

I just love learning from those that have "been there, done that" a million times!

So you're saying, back up past where you want to park, put down the wheel ramp on the low side, and pull forward. Sounds like we can use those "lego" blocks and construct a ramp to suite the site. At times we've been in situations where one wheel was 6-8 inches higher than the other in order to be level.

Did a lot of checking into the Bal Tire Leveler mentioned on this board and decided to order it. Can lift up to 6.5 inches and can handle 3500 lbs per manufacturer. Best price I found was at Cabelas.com Liked the review at Camping World by a TM owner. It is attractive that you can get the trailer in place and then level.

Hi -

Regarding the "don't back onto leveling ramps," the way I do it now is to position my rig a couple of feet behind where I want it, then pull forward onto the levelers.  I usually try to park my rig in the spot that is not only closest to all the hookups (if available), but the most level part of the spot so I don't have to do too much leveling with those darn Legos!  

[Sinclue]

All,
I wouldn't think that backing up onto a ramp or staggered blocks (like the lego type) would put that much strain on your transmission.  Now if you are trying to push it up over 2x4s that wouldn't be good.  But I've been in sites where there wasn't room to back in far enough and then pull forward to level.  And sometimes you have to back up an incline into a level-able (new word) spot. We use the lego type blocks.  Lightweight, easy to pack, and they dry quickly (unlike wood blocks). Boondocking can put you into some interesting and challenging situations.  
I certainly wouldn't recommend any situation where either of your wheels wound up hanging in the air.  Much discussion has taken place elsewhere about using the jacks as stabilizers vs support.  But I wouldn't want to depend on just those two bolted on spindly things to support my investment...no matter what their rating.  Its designed and built to sit on those wheels and I'm a firm believer in letting them do their job supporting the trailer.
Jim

Regarding "Don't back onto leveling blocks, as it will damage your transmission"
Baloney!! Power or torque is determined by the gear ratio and REVERSE is geared a heck of a lot lower than 1st gear. Most vehicles will go 25 to 30 mph or even faster in 1st gear, try that in reverse, it ain't gonna happen!!

Jack & Gayle Hall  

Nobody has mentioned this yet.... my husband digs a little hole in the ground for the wheel that is too high and drives into it.   We aren't talking much of a hole and it is usually in a sandy soil that is easy to put back when you leave. Rather than spend lots of time with the levelers, he gets the sides level, then adjusts the hitch up or down. We attached stick-on levelers to the bumper and the hitch when the trailer was perfectly level in our driveway.