Winterizing

As we head for winter here in New Hampshire, we're concerned about the winterizing process. The description in the manual seems too easy. We live where you can expect hard freezes by early November and are worried about making sure there is no water in the lines, pump, or water heater. Do we need a bypass? How do we assure that the water heater is empty? How much anti-freeze will we need? Are there other questions I haven't asked that I should be thinking about? - Ted

[RickNewcomb]

I use the same process as Leon with only one variant. I open the faucets and drain values on my last camping trip of the season. I assume the bouncing across the road on the return trip home will let a little more water out, especially from the hot water heater.

If you're at all skeptical about whether the water heater drained, just remove the anode rod and you can even look inside. Also a good time to check the anode rod for deterioration. (and possible replacement) The anode rod is on the big plug that is at the bottom of the heater tank on the outside. Mine is 1 1/16" and I assume others are too since that's the size on the replacements you can buy.

You take a chance not blowing the lines out. It's been my experience that something is likely to not survive the winter here in Michigan if I winterize as TM states by simply opening up the drains. I had to replace the shower valve this summer because some water from the shower hose collected in the area where the hose connects to the valve. A couple of years ago I had to replace the 12 volt pump.

Does anyone have any experience with keeping the TM open year round or are we just asking for problems with frozen black and gray water lines lines, etc? We would like to use the sink drain and toilet only and would not connect to water or have the internal tank or hot water heater operational. Water we use would come from a portable container we can re-fill nearby.

Here is the information that I sent to our members. I already had a couple calls thanking me for the info. Both found that the water tank hadn't drained.

Hello all, Well its that time of the year when the leave turn to a different color and drop to the ground. And when most place their TrailManor into mothballs. As you are aware, there are several recommended steps to following setting up your TM as well as there are for putting the roof down. This Rv of remarkable engineering and is unique in winterizing it. The following steps are those that are recommended.

1- open all four drain valves located under the trailer on the street side.
2- open the sink and bathroom and tub faucets fully.
3- If you have and outdoor shower remove the spray head and pull the hose fully out. Open the faucets found here.
4- Once your water heater and freshwater tank have been emptied, flip the switch to the water pump. (located on the front of the sink.) Run this pump for a half minute, but don't allow it to run any longer.
5- Leave all faucets and valves wide open for storage.
6- Push the dangling hose back into the outdoor shower box.
7- Place the shower head back into the box for storage. (don't reattach it to the hose.)
6- Sit on your porch and watch the owner of another brand of Rv spend the last warm Sunday winterizing his RV.
7- Get in the line at the Rv shop for winterizing RVs. Note the huge amount spent for having this done and if you do steps 1-6 it doesn't cost you a thing.

The above steps should be all that you need to do. There are some people who carry this preparation further than they need to by doing the following things.
1- pour potable antifreeze into each drain.
2- Disassemble your plumbing to remove possible places for water to settle. (people actually do this)
3- Uninstall your sink and bathroom and have it shipped to somewhere warm, like on the equator.
4- Pull your TM to South Padre islands and enjoy the winter from there.

About the battery:
the battery......
1- inspect the water level in the battery. It should be high enough that it just reaches the bottom of the filler tube.. It is not best to add water to the battery and then not allow the water to mix with the acid (especially bad if weather is cold.)
2- Give your battery a good charge. ( a battery that is "fully" charged should make it through the winter in better condition.)
3-disconnect the battery at the battery post.
- by removing the fuse or by pulling the connection from the post.
- if you pulled the fuse, place the fuse in a baggy and lay it on top of the battery before closing the battery cover. You will find the fuse easier when next spring comes

Some people prefer to remove their battery in its battery box and store it in a warm place. (no the Bahamas are way too far to carry it). Deep Charging batteries are very heavy and cumbersome, especially if carrying down staairs it to the basement and then back up in the spring. Don't allow acid to slop out or for battery box to touch your clothing. For acid burns, immediately flush area with water.

For storage of the battery if is removed, be sure to place the battery on board and not directly on the concrete floor. Somehow the battery will lose its charge if it is placed directly on the floor.

If you are storing your trailer uncovered out doors where snow or rain can get on the top, to prevent those ugly black streaks, raise your tongue as high as you can. Water should shed further down the back instead of washing dirt into the roof seals.

Hal

Any input on covering the TM if storing outside? We do not get a lot of snow or rain here, but it's unpredictable. A couple of years ago we had couple of feet of snow hanging around for weeks. We can also get a rapid warming trend (Chinook winds) that will melt the snow in a day. DH is interested in shrink-wrapping the TM. Has anyone done that? Thanks in advance for your input.

Virginia doesn't get as cold as Michigan in the winter (I grew up in Michigan) but we used our TM year round last year and intend on continuing to do so this year going out at least once a month. That means we "winterize" at the end of every campout.

Once you have drained everything it IS a great idea to momentarily run your water pump to push out any water still in the impeller but don't over do it as the impeller is normally cooled by the water it moves and you don't want to melt your impeller vanes.

From experience you WILL NOT drain the hot water tank if you just open the valves on the bottom. You MUST open at least one set of faucetts inside and best to open all. If you do this as you are breaking down to leave it will be obvious from the steam comming off of the water stream that the hot water tank is draining.

I leave the drain valves open and the ride home does tend to help shake out some final bits of water. Draining the water supply system WILL NOT get all of the water out of your Gray tank or your plumbing air traps (the U shape in the piping under the sink and tub) so a little bit of antifreeze poured down both definately will not hurt and may be needed for an area where there will be a good hard freeze. (Water as it freezes expands reaching it's max expansion at around 4F after which it will actually contract as it gets colder).

Bill