Quick Splice Connector Questions

[MrGallegos]

What is the recommended way to remove a quick splice self-stripping connector?

When replacing the connection, should I connect on the same spot?

[Bill]

Is this what you are referring to? If so, you can open the connector easily, by lifting the narrow edge of the snap tab that keeps it closed. At that point you have to pull up the metal knife blade with pliers, to remove the wire. Once removed, discard the old connector, as the knife blade has probably been damaged and you can't trust it. Carefully examine the wire at the connection point - pull back the insulation a bit - to determine if the copper conductor has been nicked or gouged. If so, cut the wire at the nick and start again with a new connector.

Bill

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by MrGallegos

What is the recommended way to remove a quick splice self-stripping connector?

When replacing the connection, should I connect on the same spot?

Best solution.... Cut the wire, carefully strip both ends until you find clean, shiny wire, add heatshrink, twist wire together, solder, slip the heatshrink over the splice and heat it with a heat gun.

2nd best solution.... cut the wire, strip it back 3/16" (after finding clean shiny wire) use a heatshrink, crimp connecter with a proper crimping tool. Heat the connector with heat gun until it seals the wire.

3rd best solution... cut the wire, strip it back 3/16" (after finding clean shiny wire) use a non-heatshrink, crimp connecter with a proper crimping tool.

I would recommend NOT using one of those quick-connectors. A lot of the time, if you strip that wire back, you may find the copper has turned black from corrosion and poor connection. That wire should be removed to obtain a proper connection.

[Shane826]

Solution #1a… Cut the wire, strip it back 3/16" (after finding clean shiny wire), and use one of these heat shrink self-solder connectors.

50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector, Sopoby Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Terminals Electrical Waterproof Insulated Marine Automotive Copper(23Red 12Blue 10White 5Yellow) https://a.co/d/4qUIJbT

And I 100% agree about getting rid of those quick clip connectors. Same with wire nuts on 12VDC systems, especially outside the camper… It’s a matter of when, not if, they cause an issue.

[MrGallegos]

Originally Posted by Bill

Is this what you are referring to?
Bill

Yes, those are the ones.

[MrGallegos]

Originally Posted by Shane826

And I 100% agree about getting rid of those quick clip connectors. Same with wire nuts on 12VDC systems, especially outside the camper… It’s a matter of when, not if, they cause an issue.

That is not good, so far every wire connection I have seen on my TM has been either a quick connect or wire nut.

[Bill]

For the most part, I agree with Wavery and Shane, particularly for new home-brew (non-factory) connections. But I'm a bit less hard over about the whole thing - and I know those guys will disagree. While their advice is excellent, I don't think the world will end if you use other methods carefully.

My feelings are these. Others are free to disagree.

1. My first choice is always solder and heat shrink. But you have to know how to solder, and most folks don't. And you have to know how to shrink heat shrink tubing, and most folks don't.
1a. I have not used the self-solder heat shrink connectors, but they look like a great solution IF YOU HAVE A HEAT GUN. A hair dryer will not get nearly hot enough, and attempts to use matches, a lighter, your stovetop, etc, will likely fail.

2. I never use plain wire nuts where they may encounter water. I'm disappointed that TM uses them on the brake wires under the TM. However, you can buy blue wire nuts that have a rubber membrane over the entry, and are grease-filled, which seals them well. Picture below. The trick with wire nuts is that the prep must be done correctly. The wires must be stripped to the correct length, cleaned, aligned neatly and evenly, twisted tightly in the proper direction until it won't twist any more, and the end of the bundle squared off. If it never stops twisting, or if any copper shows outside the skirt when you are done, it is wrong and may fail. Start over.
Some folks consider wire nuts to be re-usable. I don't know the official answer, but I generally disagree.

3. My personal feeling - and it is only my own - is that I try never to use crimp connectors. Machine crimping as used in assembling automobiles is great, but I have had too many home-brew crimps fail, even when I use a proper tool.

4. Finally, I have repaired a few TM connections that use the connectors you asked about. I don't like them much, but if you use new connector, the wire is not nicked, they are applied according to the manufacturer's directions, there is no tension on the wires, and they will not be exposed to moisture, I don't worry much about them.

5. If the copper has turned black, you have a bigger problem than the connector. Fix that first.

Bill