Quote:
Originally Posted by tritterbrew
Hi,
We just bought (3 weeks ago) a used 2004 2720SL. Other than needing a bath, it's in perfect condition. However, when I went out to practice the opening/closing ritual I found that it took a lot of force to pull out the front slide. ................ I do know that the unit didn't get much use so I'm wondering if the hinges need attention?
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I live in a hostile climate. Cold, rainy, humid...etc. at different times of the year. Rust is a problem, but my slide out never was difficult to open. If the slideout doesn't move straight out initially (skews a bit) then it can feel as if it has brakes of its own. Check for skew by sighting along eithe edge of the slideout and comparing alignment with the trailer wall. If you can see an obvious angle between the two verticle surfaces, it's going to be difficult to move w/out correction.
I always found it easiest to start motion by pulling on the handle and the outboard portion of one of the rotating support beam. The first motion will skew the slideout slightly. Then I'd do the same on the opposite side. By the time the skew is eliminated, a continuous straight pull on the handle allows the slideout to continue to nearly full extention. Finally, I would occasionally need to give a tug on each support beam to finish the last inch or two of travel so that the inside locking pins could be inserted w/out using a few expletives.
I made a mark on the slideout(at the end of the trailer box; each side), after engaging the locking pins. Since then, before going inside, I could confirm from the outside that the pins would engage on the first attempt.
Re: Ray's comment... carpet and roller effect... that isn't a problem. There is a steel strip under each roller. The only possible resistance, as a function of the carpet, is the rubber sweep friction as it drags on the carpet. But, in my experience, it certainly must not have been much of an effect.
Denny_A