Not closing right

gonzo628 · 03-05-2017, 10:57 PM

We just got our camper back from Custom RV and are having problems closing the front shell. (Well to say "just" is a bit misleading, we got it back at the beginning of February). the back end drops and latches just fine, but the front, though it pushes down fine, seems to pop back up on the street side. As we are closing it up, we are able to get the door side to latch fine, but the street side just won't catch (even if I stand on the stirrup). I've re-opened it and rechecked (to make sure I was not closing it on something, or seeing some obstruction) but nothing sticks out. What I do notice is that the front street-side corner is not setting on the frame (err the rubber stop on the frame). I push it down and it raises back up. To get it to close, I have to have someone hold down the front corner and then I can get it to catch.

I can say that I did not have this issue before the shells were adjusted. Any guesses as to what is happening? What should I be looking for? Should I just call up Shannon with Custom RV and take it back to them (not really looking forward to dragging it back out there -371mi)...

ArkyDoodle · 03-06-2017, 07:07 AM

Make sure it's absolutely level.....If that doesn't do it, try closing the street side first and then the door side...

Padgett · 03-06-2017, 07:38 AM

"What I do notice is that the front street-side corner is not setting on the frame (err the rubber stop on the frame). "

Each module has four torsion bars, one at each corner. Each is adjustable. I'd probably try backing off the one for the high corner (if front street side, adjusting bolt is on front curb side) a quarter turn at a time (maybe a 1/2 turn the first time) and see if that helps.

ps uses the double box wrench for hitch balls in the RV section at Wallmart and such)

**Bill** · 03-06-2017, 12:29 PM

I have had a similar experience, though probably not quite so bad. I've found two things that may be of interest.

1. It shouldn't matter whether you latch the door side or the street side first - but it does, and I haven't bothered to track down why. As Arky-Doodle said, try it in the other order. I think that what is happening is that if I close the door side first, the shell goes a bit askew, and then the street side hangs up on something that doesn't show when the shell is open. Perhaps the trim at ceiling level is hitting the top of the wall of the box as it comes down - that kind of thing. As I mentioned, I haven't bothered to track it down, but if I cared enough, I would put someone inside to watch what happens as I try to close that last corner. Another way to check is to have someone push the shell wall inward as it comes down.

2. If it is closing just a bit crooked - it doesn't take much - the latch pin may miss the hook entirely. You've probably checked this, but perhaps it is time to confirm it.

Bill

aslag54 · 03-06-2017, 03:28 PM

I had a similar issue after picking up my TM from Custom RV in January. I latched the street side first and couldn't get the door side to engage the latch. After several attempts I latched the door side first and had no problems with the street side. I mentioned this to Scott when I returned the trailer to them ten days later to fix other issues that weren't addressed during the first 2 1/2 months they had it. He said I should have been told when I purchased the trailer to latch the door side first. I don't recall if I was told this or not and never had a issue closing it the short time it's been in my possession until they adjusted everything. While I was troubleshooting it I noticed that the front shell sat so tightly on the rubber pads on the tongue that it cut though the door side pad. That's when I noticed the trim piece that should have been attached to the bottom of the front wall was missing and the sharp aluminum was cutting into the pads. Hopefully I'll get it back sometime next month, that reminds me I need to give Custom RV a call and check it's status.

gonzo628 · 03-07-2017, 09:31 PM

Arkie,

It is level. Never had this trouble closing it before service. The only way I can get it to close is by having someone pull down on the shell at the front street-side. Once they pull it down, I am able to latch midpoint via the stirrup.

gonzo628 · 03-07-2017, 09:37 PM

I had Custom adjust because I was concerned about my ability (don't want to mess up the camper). Is it a simple process? Is the bolt identification obvious? which way will reduce the lift force, and how far can I adjust the one side (taking it a 1/4 or 1/8 turn at a time) without adversely affecting the shell?

gonzo628 · 03-07-2017, 09:52 PM

Hi Bill,

thank you for your input. I thought procedure said to always do the curb (or door) side first. It's what I do (and if I forget, what my 11yo DS helper reminds me to do). Next time I have it open (hopefully tomorrow), I will try re-closing the front shell street-side first to see if it makes a difference. If it does make a difference, what do you think would cause that.

Worthy of note, when closed I now have a small gap on the door/curb-side between the front and rear shell. While it was at Custom RV, I had them to do the front bag seal (all 3 pieces). I noticed a couple things on the front shell (street-side). Specifically, some of the wires that run the channel down the front shell wall were not in the channel, near the bottom. I could not put them in the channel because when putting the left-side bag seal back on, they stapled through my ground wire (trapping some of the wires on the other side). I pulled the staple and moved the wires back in the channel, then hammered the staple back in. Because the staple had been run through the ground wire, and the ground wire was pulled down (some) it did not permit proper clearance for the shell. Once I put that wires back in the channel, that issue was resolved, yet the shell still had issues closing.

gonzo628 · 03-07-2017, 09:57 PM

so the replaced my "bump stops", but my walls appear to be in good condition (no missing parts, no sharp edges). I am closing the door-side first (per what I understood the instructions to be, but when closing it, the front leftside does not sit on the bump stop. I can pull it down, but when I let go, it comes back up 1/2 inch or so)... An adjustment might be in order (just a little apprehensive about making that adjustment).

Padgett · 03-08-2017, 07:17 AM

That it is able to be pulled down but pops up sounds like a spring and not an obstruction.

Personally I'd try a 1/4 turn counterclockwise first and maybe a 1/2 turn but if does not fix can put back.

Just trace down the arm closest to the problem corner on the same side and at the bottom a black rod attaches (torsion bar) and goes under the coach to the opposite side. There is a big hex screw head adjustment facing down at the end of the bar.

If this is not clear perhaps you should find a friend who understands torsion bars.