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03-02-2004, 10:50 AM
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#1
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Guest
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How to adjust old-style torsion bars
The front shell on my '87 3023 (actually M23?) has been 'renewed' by replacing the siding with aluminum. It actually looks like a nice job, and once I paint it, should look pretty close to the real thing.
But... it's now a bit heavier and so it takes quite a bit of effort (2 people) to lift it. I've read the discussions on adjusting the torsion bars, and thought it would be a piece of cake. It would, except that aparently in '87 there were no adjustment bolts on the bars. I've been under the TM and the bars simply end in a fixed locatio in a tube.
Anyone have any suggestions how to make adjustments to this model? I hate to think I'll always need to struggle to get that side up. The rear section works perfectly.
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03-02-2004, 12:13 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,217
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Re:OLD torsion bars
Seems to me that in the old days, the things were adjusted with shims, rather than the big bolts. I haven't done it, but do a site search for "shims" and you might uncover something useful.
Bill
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03-02-2004, 11:12 PM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 816
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Re:OLD torsion bars
[quote author=skoegler link=board=2;threadid=1734;start=msg12197#msg12197 date=1078246214]
Anyone have any suggestions how to make adjustments to this model? I hate to think I'll always need to struggle to get that side up. The rear section works perfectly.
[/quote]
The torsion bars actually come in various strengths and the adjustment bolts on the new trailers are more for minor tweaking than accomodating significant changes in the shell weight. When I had the dealer install an awning last spring on my 2720SL, they had to replace all 4 front shell torsion bars with heavier duty ones even though the added weight was only about 70 lbs. Apparently my unit...which was ordered without roof AC or awning...had the lowest strength torsion bars from the factory.
So for your situation, you may very well need to talk to Ed at the TM factory about getting stronger torsion bars to handle the weight of the siding. With the front shell properly supported, I don't think switching the bars is a horribly difficult job.
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03-10-2004, 02:35 PM
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#4
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Guest
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Re:OLD torsion bars
I am curious to know if the siding was inside or out, I presume outside, but why would you do that? Did you do it yourself, it seems like a heck of a lot of work.
I have a 1988 TM23, I measured it and the towing length is 20'3" which coincides with today's 2720. It makes sense given the interior layout matches todays 2720.
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05-09-2004, 04:12 PM
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#5
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Guest
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Re:OLD torsion bars
The siding was replaced both inside and out. This unit was in VERY bad shape and the person who rebuilt it (bless him) did a lot of work, and a very good job.
Seems TM doesn't sell replacement T-bars for the old style. I bought one and received it only to find it about 5" short. The only way to use it is to change the torque tubes... a job I'm not ready to take on.
I've shimmed the front bars as far as they can go (even shimmed the rear ones a little too far and now the back end won't lower... but a job for tomorrow). Seems the only thing I can do to avoid back injury is to rig a lever to fit the front shell and pry the thing up about 1'. At that point it does raise easily but getting there is painful.
I'll come back here with a postmortem and maybe pix. In the mean time if anyone has other suggestions, send them on.
Thanks
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05-09-2004, 05:30 PM
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#6
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Guest
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Re:OLD torsion bars
Just a thoughtful concern...... By adding the new skin, inside and out, you may have altered the weight balance of your trailer. You mentioned there is additional weight of your trailer. I would recommend that you have your trailer re-weighed to see how far the new weight is increased. Even tho you may have the storage space, it may be necessary for you to carry less or fewer items while traveling. It vey easy, especially for us novices to bring everything along, just because it will fit into some space in the trailer. We wised up when we didn't need to carry a complete set of camping gear, including tent, stove, lanterns, cots, etc. etc. What a difference it made in towing to leave it all home.
Being there is a recommended limit for the combined weight of the trailer and its contents, you have added some extra poundage. While this is not a recommendation, you might try to offset the weight of your new front end by loading something of equal weight
behind your axle. I am no expert on this topic but feel you should look into this. I hope I am incorrect but I would feel better knowing my advice were correct.
Hal
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