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08-17-2009, 09:47 AM
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#1
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
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Water pump doesn't turn on - bad pressure switch?
We were on a 5-day trip this past week, and right as someone stood stark naked in the shower, the water pump failed to turn on. Poor timing. This had happened before, but after tapping it and/or wiggling the wires over the course of 5 min or so, it eventually started back up again. But this time, no such luck. Procrastination kills again.
Fortunately, I had a spare pump on hand that I use as a transfer pump -- it is actually the original pump that came with the TM, but developed a bad diaphragm, I think due to freezing. I replaced the diaphragm, and it now works like a champ.
Anyway, I switched out the pump, which is not a particularly easy task on a slideout model, and the replacement works fine. No problems.
I am thinking it's not a loose wire because 1) the replacement works fine; and 2) if it were loose wiring, the pump would turn on/off as I wiggle the wire; and 3) it would take less than 5 min of messing with it to get it back working again.
Could it be the pressure switch? Is that a common point of failure? The OEM pump lasted for 8-9 years before it died, and only then because I presumably let water freeze in it. The new one lasted only 6-months, so I will be contacting Shurflo to get it replaced.
Incidentally, the OEM is US-made; the replacement: made in China. Ugh.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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08-17-2009, 10:22 AM
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#2
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
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Also, does anyone have any experience with Shurflo's "Extreme Series" pumps that have a variable speed motor?
http://www.shurflo.com/pages/RV/rv_c...r/extreme.html
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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08-17-2009, 11:05 AM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito
We were on a 5-day trip this past week, and right as someone stood stark naked in the shower, the water pump failed to turn on. Poor timing. This had happened before, but after tapping it and/or wiggling the wires over the course of 5 min or so, it eventually started back up again. But this time, no such luck. Procrastination kills again.
Fortunately, I had a spare pump on hand that I use as a transfer pump -- it is actually the original pump that came with the TM, but developed a bad diaphragm, I think due to freezing. I replaced the diaphragm, and it now works like a champ.
Anyway, I switched out the pump, which is not a particularly easy task on a slideout model, and the replacement works fine. No problems.
I am thinking it's not a loose wire because 1) the replacement works fine; and 2) if it were loose wiring, the pump would turn on/off as I wiggle the wire; and 3) it would take less than 5 min of messing with it to get it back working again.
Could it be the pressure switch? Is that a common point of failure? The OEM pump lasted for 8-9 years before it died, and only then because I presumably let water freeze in it. The new one lasted only 6-months, so I will be contacting Shurflo to get it replaced.
Incidentally, the OEM is US-made; the replacement: made in China. Ugh.
Dave
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I used to carry a spare pressure switch on my boat (I lived aboard for 14 years). My usage of the w/pump far exceeded what most would use theirs in an RV but I did have to change the pressure switch about once every year or 2 and I always carried a spare because it always happened when someone was in the shower. When they fail, it's just as you experienced, I would wiggle the wires and the pump would run but not for long.
However, it must be recognized that we had 2 bathrooms with 2 showers and a galley. They were used 365 days a year. We went through about 300gal of water every 2 weeks (that was our tank capacity), when in port (a lot less at sea).
The variable speed pumps are made for RVs and boats that may have several faucets that might be running at the same time. You would be far better off just installing an accumulator tank IMO.
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TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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08-17-2009, 06:32 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Thanks for the info, Wayne. That's a bummer about the variable speed pumps. I wonder why mine failed so quickly. It's only been installed for 6 months and has pumped no more than 300-400 gallons total over that period.
I've thought about installing an accumulator, but there is VERY limited space under the sink where it would go. About the only place it would go would block access to the pump, which unfortunately has proved necessary to access twice in the past 6 months. That space is also required to unscrew the supply lines to remove the sink, which is the only other way to get access to that space.
Has anyone installed an accumulator in a slideout model?
I called Shurflo this afternoon, and sure enough, production of this particular pump is now entirely in China. Fortunately, they have a few domestic made units in the factory, and the guy I spoke with offered to send me one after receiving the bad unit. I was told US models have copper wire, Chinese models have wire silver in color.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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08-17-2009, 06:51 PM
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#5
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito
I've thought about installing an accumulator, but there is VERY limited space under the sink where it would go. About the only place it would go would block access to the pump, which unfortunately has proved necessary to access twice in the past 6 months. That space is also required to unscrew the supply lines to remove the sink, which is the only other way to get access to that space.
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Dave,
The accumulator tank can be located anywhere that there is water pressure. Actually, the farther from the pump, the better. You could even screw it to the frame or floor, under the TM and splice it into the pressure drain line.
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TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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08-17-2009, 07:57 PM
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#6
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Hmm....that thought passed through my head shortly after submitting my last post. Mount it under the TM....that's an interesting suggestion. It certainly wouldn't be my preference to mount it outside, but it's an option. Perhaps more of a tricky thing would be mounting it somewhere that doesn't create a low point, preventing gravity drainage and making it susceptible to freezing. Or is that not an issue because the air pressure will push the water out regardless of position?
Maybe there is adequate room under the bathroom sink. I presume they need to be periodically refilled with air, correct? So it would also need to be quasi-accessible.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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08-17-2009, 08:07 PM
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#7
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Shurflo install instructions say it can be mounted in any position, however, for "complete sanitizing/winterizing, it should be mounted upright".
http://www.shurflo.com/pdf/rv/911_tr.../911-378-Q.pdf
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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08-17-2009, 11:25 PM
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#8
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,940
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OH please.....don't talk to me about winterizing.....to me , that's something that you do on the Moon.....I don't even want to know.........
The accumulator is basically an empty tank with a rubber diaphragm in it. As the pressure builds, it stretches the diaphragm which "Absorbs" the pressure. When the water is turned on, the diaphragm releases the pressure slowly and takes all of the shock out of the pumping action.
There is no air "added" to the tank. The air pressure in the empty tank is neutral until the water pressure is added......edit.....I just read the Shurflo specs. I see that they add 20# of pressure at the factory. Don't know why.....anyway, I'm sure that the pressure is static and I doubt that any can be added (nor should it need to be).
When you use an accumulator, your pump and everything else in the system is under less stress and therefore lives longer.
I hope that makes sense......
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TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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08-18-2009, 07:11 AM
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#9
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Guest
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The Shurflo accumulator has a valve on it where air can be added with a bicycle pump. Best bet is to not add air, but if you do. DO NOT use a standard compressor or service station air.
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08-19-2009, 07:09 PM
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#10
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv
The accumulator tank can be located anywhere that there is water pressure. Actually, the farther from the pump, the better. You could even screw it to the frame or floor, under the TM and splice it into the pressure drain line.
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Ok, I got the Shurflo accumulator and am deciding on a mounting location. Why do you say it's better further from the pump? Rumbleweed said in a separate thread that it's best to have it closest to the pump...
Quote:
Originally Posted by rumbleweed
You should locate the accumulator tank on the pressure side of the system as close as possible to the pump.
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...and Shurflo's installation directions say it can be installed ANYWHERE on the pressurized line (but that's not to say one location is better than another).
In my SL model, there is very limited space for this thing. The only easily accessible interior plumbing is under the kitchen sink and under the bathroom sink. I prefer to mount it upright so that it will drain completely. I understand most of the water will drain if mounted on its side (since the diaphragm will force it out), so freezing isn't necessarily a concern, but I'd rather have the capability to completely evacuate it. That eliminates under the kitchen sink, as the only high spot to mount it is above the tank, and if mounted vertically, the air fill nozzle is inaccessible.
That leaves the bathroom sink. Same situation there, except one spot -- the cabinet to the right of the sink. Mounted inside that cabinet, I can run a hose through the left cabinet wall and downward to the sink supply line (teeing into the PEX with a Sharkbite.....I sure hope it works because it's a point of no return with no crimp tool). Once the bathroom wall is folded down, the air nozzle becomes accessible through a ~4" wide opening. So that seems like the best of both worlds.
NOTE: Although there are 2 ports on the accumulator, only one has to be connected. The other can be capped. Such an installation has no effect on function vs. installing both ports inline.
Comments?
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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