Adding a Carbon Monoxide Detector

[MikeD]

Hi,

I'm planning to add a Carbon Monoxide detector to my 2004 2720. I can get a flush mount Safe-T-Alert CO detector which ties into the 12v system (it draws 60 ma). Here is a link to the product description --

http://www.safehomeproducts.com/SHP/..._Detectors.asp

My plan is to mount it just above the existing LP gas detector and tap into the feed that powers the LP gas detector. It seems like a straightforward job - mostly just making a cut in the wall just above the LP gas detector, and has the advantage that the CO detector will be turned off with the LP gas detector when the bathroom is taken down.

Does anyone see a problem with this ?

Thanks in advance -- Mike

[mjlaupp]

Mike,

• A Carbon Monoxide detector should be mounted high.
• A Carbon Monoxide detector will detect CO just every time you use your gas range.
• Most Carbon Monoxide detectors are not approved for use in an RV.

I bought a battery operated combination Smoke and CO detector to replace the TM smoke detector. I found out, after I had opened the package, that it was not approved for an RV. It is now mounted in the house where it will hopefully detect CO from the fireplace should the worst happen.
MJL

[MikeD]

Mike,

Most Carbon Monoxide detectors are not approved for use in an RV.

This one is advertised as designed for RV use.

A Carbon Monoxide detector will detect CO just every time you use your gas range.

There are thresholds on CO detection. I've tried an indoor CO detector in the TM while I had it set-up by the house this winter. It has not alarmed with either the stove, oven, or furnance, but this is a good point. When I get this unit, I'll wire it temporarily into the 12v system through the cigarette lighter to see if it is too sensitive (before I cut a hole in the wall).


On the other hand, if it does go off, then that would indicate that I should open a window or vent or just get out of the trailer until it clears out. It seems that I can't have it both ways. Either the level of CO is too high and I should take action, or I should just ignore it and not install the detector.

A Carbon Monoxide detector should be mounted high.

Why would it need to be mounted high ? I understood that CO mixes well in air (e.g.; it does not settle to the floor like propane). From the various mounting instructions that I have read - it seems that I should be able to mount it at most any height.

Mike

[mjlaupp]

Mike,
You have a good handle on items 1 & 2. Item 3 - Why mount it high? CO is a product of combustion. Combustion releases heat. Hot air (hot CO) rises. High mounting provides early detection.
MJL :

This site gives a contains good information about detector placement:
http://www.macurco.com/FAQ.html

Kevin

[MikeD]

Thanks for all of the feedback. After the discussion, I've decided to change units. I'm going to add the following:

http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstor...785D05BCA090A2

I can mount it on the folding cabinet in the back bedroom area. I had really wanted a 12 volt powered unit, but can't see a way to mount one at "breathing level" unless I replace one of the overhead lights.

The other problem with my placement is that I've learned that gas appliances (ovens, stoves, and perhaps even the fridge) normally emit some CO when they start up. Possibly causing annoying false alarms.

thanks for the feedback. The reason I want a CO detector (outside of general safety) is that I plan to run a catalytic heater when boondocking. Although I plan to open a vent, I'd like some extra security.

Thanks -- Mike

[RockyMtnRay]

[quote author=MikeD link=board=19;threadid=1622;start=msg11486#msg1148 6 date=1074820193]thanks for the feedback. The reason I want a CO detector (outside of general safety) is that I plan to run a catalytic heater when boondocking. Although I plan to open a vent, I'd like some extra security.

[/quote]
Mike...

Whilst I think that you're being quite wise in getting a CO detector for your TM's sleeping area, it's my general impression that the greater risk with catalytic heaters is oxygen depletion. Of course as the oxygen nears depletion within the trailer, CO production will naturally rise due to incomplete combustion.

The guidance provided by Olympian with their Wave catalytic heaters (http://www.uscatalytic.com/WaveSeries_Installation.pdf....see page 7) calls for slightly opening a window (about a quarter inch) in the end of the trailer. This is in addition to opening one of the overhead vents. The open overhead vent acts as an exhaust and the opened window is the source of replacement oxygen. I personally would want that oxygen source near to where I was sleeping...even if it makes for a chilly sleeping environment.

[MikeD]

Ray,

I had already planned to open a vent and a window (but perhaps not a bedroom window - you are right - this is what I should do). I wanted the CO detector as backup, and as general protection from other mistakes.

thanks -- Mike

[Bill]

MikeD -

Opening a vent and a window is also a good idea because it will let the moisture out of the trailer. When propane burns, one of the products of combustion is water vapor - lots of it. Unlike the furnace, water heater, and refrig, a catalytic heater by itself is not vented to the outside. If you didn't open a window and roof vent, the moisture would build up in the trailer, and you would have a LOT of condensation by morning.

Incidentally, venting should also carry away some of the water vapor caused by the occupants' breathing, so that's a good thing. Less condensation all around.

Bill

[mjlaupp]

[quote author=Bill link=board=19;threadid=1622;start=msg11503#msg1150 3 date=1074882777]
Opening a vent and a window is also a good idea because it will let the moisture out of the trailer.
[/quote]

Bill,
Why would you need to open a window? It would seem that the bathroom vent under the tub would provide the opening for the fresh air when the fan is off. That is unless you have sealed it, like some of the members have, to the keep the cold air out.
MJL