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04-20-2023, 10:06 PM
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#1
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,274
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This doesn't look good....sagging floor?
Spotted this on my 2007 3124KB this week. It looks like the floor on this side is sinking. The outside shower leaked when I bought it, so my assumption it could have leaked for awhile, and there is some rot there. But the exposed wood doesn't seem rotted at all, so it's not obvious. From the top of the wall, it doesn't appear the wall is moving, but from the underside of the trailer, it does appear that way, and so I'm not sure how the floor and wall are tied together.
Has anyone seen this? Any ideas on how to rectify it, or at least stabilize it? I can put a jack under that wall to lift it back into position, and that did push much of it back up (no wood is exposed any more), but I'm not sure yet what my options are after that.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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04-21-2023, 06:57 AM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,891
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I dealt with something similar on my 3326. What is on top of the floor here? The tub? So the top of the floor isn’t very accessible, right?
You’re gonna need some help from a welder friend. Cut a steel plate however big can fit to cover the saggy floor. Jack the steel plate to push the floor into place. Measure and cut a few steel triangle buttresses and weld them from to the bottom of the steel plate and side of the frame. Seal with your favorite flavor of sealant. It’s not really fixing the problem but it’s supporting the floor in place like a shelf.
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04-21-2023, 07:46 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 41
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Claim it on your insurance as flood damage and have them total the camper out.$$ Then go buy another one. Man...I wouldn't begin to think how to fix that. I would bet you would have to tare apart half the camper to get to the floor. Then replace it with new plywood. Wow, that would be a lot of work. let us know how you fix it. Curious on how to fix this.
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04-21-2023, 12:28 PM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,891
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I think the wall is just stacked on the floor so if you got some 4” lag bolts you might be able to drill up through the floor frame and into the wall frame…
My floor frame “broke” and was hanging down at the wheel well but I was able to get to the top of the floor to do some repair.
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04-21-2023, 08:41 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,274
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From the photo of the underside, it actually looks like the bottom part of the wall is sagging, not the floor. Only about the outer 1.5” seems to be sagging, which I was thinking would just be a piece of 2x4 framing. But the wood that is exposed does not appear to be rotted. Above the sagging portion is the rear compartment I think, but I wasn’t able to check inside as I had forgotten my key.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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04-22-2023, 08:11 AM
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#6
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito
Spotted this on my 2007 3124KB this week. It looks like the floor on this side is sinking. The outside shower leaked when I bought it, so my assumption it could have leaked for awhile, and there is some rot there. But the exposed wood doesn't seem rotted at all, so it's not obvious. From the top of the wall, it doesn't appear the wall is moving, but from the underside of the trailer, it does appear that way, and so I'm not sure how the floor and wall are tied together.
Has anyone seen this? Any ideas on how to rectify it, or at least stabilize it? I can put a jack under that wall to lift it back into position, and that did push much of it back up (no wood is exposed any more), but I'm not sure yet what my options are after that.
Dave
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Dave,
Just a thought...... Is that where those big heavy Trojan T125 batteries used to sit?
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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08-25-2023, 01:14 PM
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#7
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826
I dealt with something similar on my 3326. What is on top of the floor here? The tub? So the top of the floor isn’t very accessible, right?
You’re gonna need some help from a welder friend. Cut a steel plate however big can fit to cover the saggy floor. Jack the steel plate to push the floor into place. Measure and cut a few steel triangle buttresses and weld them from to the bottom of the steel plate and side of the frame. Seal with your favorite flavor of sealant. It’s not really fixing the problem but it’s supporting the floor in place like a shelf.
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Reviving this older thread, so I'm now ready to do the repair.
Shane - When you did this sort of repair to your 3326, did you weld the steel triangles to the frame? Just wondering if the heat from the welding caused any damage to the floor, and if not, what you might have done to protect it.
Wayne - No batteries in that rear compartment. They're all up front -- this is my 3124KB, not the 2720SL.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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08-25-2023, 11:07 PM
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#8
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,891
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No heat issue that I know of… But even if a little foam got soft it’s a helluva a lot better than the floor falling out!
__________________
2007/21 TM 3326 (Pride of the Fleet)
2000 2720SL (Rebuild Project)
2002 2619 (Parts TM)
SMARTER THAN GOOGLE!
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08-26-2023, 05:25 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,179
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How much is it actually drooping? Have you pulled a string across the length of the wall of the lower box, just above the bottom edge, and gotten some idea of the amount of droop between the ends? And noted the location of maximum droop? How about marking the wall near the front and rear of the box, at a fixed distance down from the edge of the roof, almost to the bottom edge. Pull a string across these two points, and confirm that the shape there matches or doesn't match the shape at the lower edge.
I'm not sure where I am going with this, but it seems easy to confirm that the wall is still solid and square, and the problem is indeed some sort of detachment of the floor from the wall.
Similarly, you might pull a string along the metal cross-members under the floor. Are they straight, or bowed? Can you tell if one of them is straight but is not in the same plane as the others - in other words, has an end of one of them dropped?
I'm just noodling here, and perhaps you have investigated all of this. I'm just trying to get the picture in my mind. Somehow, I'm thinking that you should be able to push the floor (?) back up, and if you can't reattach it to the wall, weld a piece of I-beam front-rear between two adjacent cross beams to support the floor. This is kind of a mini version of the plate Shane suggested. I would like to go out and look at mine to help' me visualize, but it has been captive at a service place for two weeks.
Bill
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08-26-2023, 09:21 AM
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#10
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Did anyone do any service that required jacking up your trailer? For example, to replace tires?
I'm going out on a limb here, but looking at your original pictures in your first post.
It almost looks like some one tried jacking up the floor about 2 inches from the edgeI It even appears as if some one used a bottle jack in one place. If so, this could have bent the outer edge of the floor, and possibly damaged the connection between the floor and wall allowing the floor in that portion to sag.
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