Leveling

[hoverlover]

I have a question about leveling. I have read several threads about it and do not understand the requirement for blocks or bal levelers or whatever for under the tires that many have posted. My new to me 2005 2619 owner's manual says this:
"The simplest way to level your Trailmanor is using the two-point method. After opening you trailer, place a bubble level on the refrigerator. Using the tongue jack, level the trailer front to back. Use the rear scissor jack on the low side of the trailer to level the trailer side-to-side. To lower the scissor jacks, crank clockwise with the jack handle provided in the trunk. Once the trailer is level, you can mount a bubble level permanently on the tongue of your Trailmanor to aid in future leveling."
This is all I do for leveling except I use a power drill to raise and lower scissors, and then ensure all scissors are providing support. Why does anyone use the tire levelers?

I do because that is the way I was taught but with jacks that will support 5K each I am now wondering why I do as well. I will be trying your method next time out and see how it goes!

[hoverlover]

Thanks for the reply, Clown. I was worried that there was something I failed to account for in leveling. The scissors have provided complete stability so far in the 4 trips I have made since purchasing the 2619 in July 2011.

Your welcome, I did notice one thing in your quote though- They say to open up and then do the leveling. That can lead to a problem as the shells do not like to open if out of level. I use a small level and place it on the tongue in both directions as I level front to back and side to side, 2 positions for the level. I would do the level thing first, then open up, saves a lot of wear and tear on ME!

One other thought, do not trust the "stick on" levels. I have seen them slip a bit off level due to the heat of the sun and will give false readings from then on.

[hoverlover]

Good idea, I will try leveling before opening.

[Civil_War_Buff]

The factory instructions say to open first then level only the first time. If you place the bubble level on the tongue at that time, then you can level before opening if you wish. It is at the top of page 12 in the manual.

[HIKERZ]

I have basic bubble levelers on the two axis mounted on the outer shell so I can come close when pulling in. After I open I then do the finer adjustment based on the inside parameters.

[countrygirl]

There were some pics posted here of some sort of funny leveling situations. Example the back of trailer was on much higher ground then the front. I should have taken a photo of out Missouri leveling situation last year. The Uncles place is on a hill...and our TM was partially on the hill on the street side and we had to use a lot of blocks on the curb side.

I think if you are always in a paved camp ground you don't run into as many challenges.

Some years back we did camp at a camp ground in Ocala named Whispering Pines. (It was a soft whisper ...there was only one pine tree) Anyway...We setup the TM just fine and dandy and our brother in law in camped in his 40 ft diesel pusher .....way in the back on the new asphalt. After about an hour we get a knock on our door. He did not use pads except for his hydraulic leveling feet...and they sunk through that 6 inches of asphalt and he could not get them raised to move the motor home.

He got fussed at...and maybe a fine for not using the pads.

Leveling is primarily for the fridge operation. It needs to be close to level, but not perfect. I always set up a little off level with one corner low for rain or AC condensate runoff.

[irenepl]

I carry a set of the orange leveling blocks. If the ground is unlevel then i use the blocks, this minimizes how much I have to crank the jack to finish the leveling. I also use the leveling blocks as chocks on the wheel with the blocks as it is impossible to use a standard chock on the leveling blocks.