Hot Water Heater

Looking for some help! After a long winter I am in the process of getting the TM ready for a trip next weekend. I was flushing the water system, getting out the anti-freeze that I had the dealer put in place last fall. I filled the water system and I tried getting the hot water heater to work. It's an electronic ingnition. I flipped the switch and the light came on, as is expected. The system went through it's cycle of on and off until it fires up succesfully, which it did not. I shut the system down after a few minutes (I realized I didn't have the gas on at this point) and tried again. Again it did not work.  My problem now, is that when I try to turn the heater on, I don't even get the light coming on saying the system is trying.
Does anyone have an experience with the hot water system? Is there a fuse somewhere, that I am missing that may be blown? The owners manual mentions a reset switch, which I can't find. Please help, I don't want to take cold showers next weekend!

[BOB_STRONG]

Steve,

During the winter, I always bring my owner's manual in incase I want to read something. I checked in my maual about the hot water tank, and it said to make sure you light your stove to make sure all air is purged from the lines. Also, it stated that the first start-up of the year may require several ignition cycles. That's why it's best to purge the lines first. Also, turn on both tanks incase one of them is empty. My 2002 model has guages on the tanks so you can check the levels. Let me know how this works.

Bob Strong

Yup, sounds like ya might have a bit of air in the lines, run the stove for a while, then get the furnace going......to make sure all the gas is flowing......let em run for a bit, *then* try the water heater....

[glow=red,2,300]Happytrails.......[/glow]

Also, you might want to check for cobwebs or some other blockage in the venturi(?) tube where the gas flows.  I had a problem in the fall, and I poked something in there to clean it out, and it worked fine after that.

OK, Thanks for the input so far. I hope I'm on track to solving my problem, here's where I stand. I can get the water heater to fire up. A nice strong flame for a short time (3 to 5 minutes). The unit then shuts off and does not come back on. The water does not get hot (nor warm for that matter). Am I on the right track since the heater is firing up? Am I still fighting a problem of air in the lines or am I facing a different problem?
I have been able to reset the ECO switch a couple of times, but this doesn't change the overall behavior of the water heater. The furnace and oven are both working without a problem.
Any further suggestions?

we need help!!! if we  just filled up water tank and still leave "fresh water" hose connecting to out let(we have pressure regulator) hot water will come out at over flow valve of  hot water heater(out side),  we needed  to turn off water to stop this...
my questions are:
1- at camp site, do we need to connect to water line and turn on  all the time?
2- how hot water heater's over flow valve works?

thank you

2619er,  How much use has your hot water heater had.  It seems that with continued use, air pressure will be created. This air pressure, being that it it lighter than water will sit at the top of the heater tank.  This accumulation of air will continue until water is forced out of the overflow valve.  To stop this your tank needs to be bled of the air.

The overflow tank works differently on your trailer water heater as compared to the valve on the water tank in your home.  If your valve begins to leak at home, there is some particle caught in the valve.  Some plumbers recommend that you never release the safety valve on your home hot water heater as this could cause particles to seat where the seal is to sit, thus causing your tank to leak.  A leaky home water tank valve is a good one to replace as it could be getting ready to blow and run water throughout your house.

If water leaks out of the valve in your trailer's tank, it is a sign that there is too much air in the tank, as described above.  Most likely, your valve is still in good working condition.

You can find information on this in your Blue Notebook that came with your trailer.  If you don't have this book, let me know and I will scan the page and send it to you.

Hal

Hal,
thank you Hal, we really don't have any docs of this used TT. if you can please e-mail to us a copy of water heater section at our e-mail [email protected]
thank you

[Bill]

It sounds like we have a couple of different questions going on here.

I can get the water heater to fire up. A nice strong flame for a short time (3 to 5 minutes). The unit then shuts off and does not come back on. The water does not get hot (nor warm for that matter).

The recovery rate on gas is quite fast. In 3-5 minutes, the water should get quite warm if not hot. If you get a good flame for 3-5 minutes, and the water doesn't even get warm, it makes me ask if there is actually any water in the tank. In addition, the fact that the flame cuts off and won't restart reinforces my suspicion - it appears that the Emergency Cut Off switch has tripped, which would happen if the flame is trying to heat an empty tank. And you mention having to reset the cutoff switch.

You say that the dealer winterized the system and put anti-freeze in it. I bet he also installed a water heater bypass. A bypass, of course, allows water to run PAST the tank (giving you the unheated water that you are seeing), but won't allow any to run INTO the tank (which would result in the ECO switch cutting off). You just need to un-bypass the heater by turning the two or three valves that are involved.

we need help!!! if we just filled up water tank and still leave fresh water hose connecting to out let(we have pressure regulator) hot water will come out at over flow valve of hot water heater(out side), we needed to turn off water to stop this...

The water heater doesn't actually have an overflow valve. What you are referring to is the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve, usually just called the T&P valve. Its purpose is to relieve pressure in the tank if the water overheats and boils. If the pressure weren't released, the tank could explode, so it is important.

It is not unusual for the valve to weep a little bit as the water heats up, but it should not run continuously. If it does run continuously, especially just under hose pressure (i.e., without heat), something is wrong. The first step is to pull the trigger in the center of the T&P valve, and let the water rush out for a few seconds. If there is a bit of grit caught in the valve, this should wash it out and stop the leakage. Do this a few times, letting the trigger snap back into place each time.

If you still have leakage under hose pressure, the T&P valve may be bad. They do fail, and they are not hard or expensive to replace. Under the trigger, there is a circular metal tag that tells you the temp and pressure for which it is designed. Note these numbers, go to the hardware store, and buy another one that has the same numbers. Unscrew the old one (you'll need a big wrench), screw in the new one (you'll need teflon plumber's tape), and you are good to go.

By the way, pulling the trigger is messy - the T&P valve dumps water all over the water heater compartment, since there is no diversion. You might want to add a temporary diversion such as a funnel, a piece of pipe, or even a paper plate pushed up behind the valve outlet, to divert the rush of water out onto the ground. That way, only your feet get wet.

There seems to be some question about whether there should be any air in the tank. For the answer, I suggest you go to the manufacturer's web site at http://www.rvcomfort.com/html/suburb...questions.html and look at question number 5.

Hope this helps - let us know.

Bill

I agree with bill on both counts!

Bill, thanks for posting a good thorough answer to both issues.  I couldn't have said it better myself.

The same website you posted should provide most of the information you'll need to figure out how your hotwater heater works, even without the owners manual.

2619er's previous owner probably left the relief valve in the open position whilst draining the system.  I often forget and leave mine open as well.  There is no harm to this, except maybe wearing out the spring over many years of "forgetting."

Almost all TM hot water heaters use this valve to bleed air from the system, whilst filling the tank.  Once water comes out (or per suburban just before water comes out), you close the valve.

Remember this is a relief valve and even if you don't open it to fill the system all reputable plumbers recommend testing the valve (to make sure it isn't stuck) by opening it every few months.  This includes hotwater heaters in your home.  However, I must confess I only check mine about once per year...

Happy camping