Electric brake wire connectors

[Steppy]

I’m installing new Dexter brakes on my 2013 2720SL. I’ve attached a picture of the brake wire connections on the drivers side. What are these called and where can I get some for the new brakes? I’ve been searching for these on the internet and can’t find them.

[eddugo]

Looks like the wires that go to the magnet - didn't know they came off.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...KBRKR-M10.html

[Bill]

Aside from the color, the connectors look like this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DryConn-...8230/303743688

Certainly a big improvement over the old wire nuts.

Bill

[Steppy]

Bill,
Thank you. If you were doing this, would you use these Irrigation Wire Connectors or use heat shrinking butt connectors?

[Larryjb]

I soldered, heat shrunk, and taped mine. I'm personally not a fan of trusting any sort of crimp connector for brakes on 3500 lbs behind me. But that's just me.

[Steppy]

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback. On my old 2004 2720SL, the brake wires had been connected with wire nuts from the factory! I think I replaced them with heat shrink butt connectors and then taped the connections.

[BrucePerens]

Mine had wire nuts too. I like solder and heat-shrink tubing.

[eddugo]

Wow! Never saw those before. i have 3 trailers with brakes and all have wire nuts from factory.

[Bill]

Like Larry and Bruce, I am in the solder-and-heat-shrink camp. But I don't usually use butt connectors of any kind, because I don't own a good tool to compress it into a good solid connection. Some folks squeeze the connector with pliers or dikes, or hammer it flat. I've had enough connections pull apart that I don't trust either method.

I also don't tape, since electrical tape tends to dry out and curl up, turning a protective layer into a water trap. Self-fusing tape might work better - has anyone tried it?

Instead, I do two layers of heat shrink tubing. A small diameter piece, about an inch longer than the soldered splice, is centered over the splice, and shrunk into place. Then a slightly larger diameter piece, about 3 inches longer than the splice, is centered over the earlier piece and heat shrunk into place. In my mind, anyway, both the inner and outer layers form a barrier against water, and the outer layer takes the hit from any flying road sand or debris, protecting the inner layer. The extended outer layer also minimizes wire failure from flexing fatigue.

Incidentally, I have found that the only reliable way to shrink the shrink tubing is with a heat gun (a hotter version of a hair dryer). I've tried matches, butane lighters, a propane torch, a soldering iron, and even twirling it over the flame on the gas stove. None of these produce a tight, well-formed covering. Fortunately a good heat gun is available from Home Depot for around $16, or Harbor Freight (especially if you catch a sale).

Bill

[Bill]

Follow up. If you really want to use wire nuts, be sure you get the weatherproof ones, usually blue, with the glob of silicone grease inside. Available in any hardware store.

Bill