[JohnMD]

  Update: With neighbor's help, we had success. Between a larger socket wrench with more leverage, and spraying with "Fabulous Blaster," we got the anode rod out!

[commodor47]

John,

Try spraying the exposed threaded area with a good penetrating oil. then use the rounded end of a small ballpeen hammer to gently tap the end of the anode rode. The gentle tapping will help move the penetrating oil into the hidden threads. Let the oil set up for several hours, preferably overnight. You may have to repeat the process several times before the threads loosen up. You might also try tightening the rod a bit then try loosening as this will sometimes free up the threads.

Dick

[JohnMD]

Dick,

It looks like you were typing your response at the same time I was typing my update. Thanks for the feedback. It's a beautiful afternoon in MD and a great day to be working on the TM!

John

[commodor47]

John,

Thanks for the update - it is always nice to hear an issue has been successfully resolved.

Dick

[Bill]

One added thought. Dick's suggestion to use penetrating oil and tapping and time, rather than using brute force right up front, is the right way to do it. Then, once you get the (oily) threads loosened, try VERY HARD not to get oil into the interior of the tank. Clean off the inside thread in the tank plug and the outside thread on the anode rod right away, and do NOT run the anode rod back in before cleaning. If oil drips or seeps inside, it is hard to get the taste out of your drinking water.

Bill

[Wavery]

Using brute force on that plug can have drastic consequences.

I have found "PB Blaster" to be a very effective penetrating oil. Tapping is certainly a good idea. Instead of using a hand wrench, I have used an impact wrench with great success over the years. It exserts more force with less likelihood of damage. It also helps break up the small bits of corrosion and crystalized hard water deposits that are wedged between the threads.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by Wavery

Using brute force on that plug can have drastic consequences.

I can confirm this. I've reported this before, but within the last 2 or so years, I broke the head off my anode rod in the attempt to remove it. It wasn't pretty. I had to drill it out, a very slow process, and then re-tap the hole. Don't want to ever have to do that again....

Dave

[Bill]

Dave -

Ouch! Drill 'n' retap is an unhappy process. If it happens again, would you consider using a screw extractor or an EZ-OUT, or even a drill with a left-hand thread? With one of these devices, you can sometimes drill only partway through the stuck bolt (or in this case, the anode rod plug). If you can do that, you avoid introducing metal chips into the tank. Regardless, I would always start with Dick's oil and tap-tap-tap, then put the extractor device to work. Try turning it with a hand-turned tap wrench at first. If you really can't get it, an impact wrench as Wavery pointed out might be the way to go. But avoid over-slam-torquing the extractor. If it breaks off in the hole, you are in really deep yogurt because it is hardened steel, and you can't drill into it without special bits.

Just as thought, I have heard that if you press a piece of dry ice against the broken stub, the thermal shock may break it loose. Or at least it may shrink the diameter of the stub enough to loosen the grip. Never tried it, though. Dry ice is available in supermarkets around here..

Incidentally, I followed the old mechanic's rule. You only need an extractor if you don't have one. So buy a set of extractors and put them on the shelf. Sure enough, I bought a set of extractors 20 years ago, and I've never had to use them.

I don't envy you that process.

Bill

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by Bill

Dave -

Ouch! Drill 'n' retap is an unhappy process. If it happens again, would you consider using a screw extractor or an EZ-OUT, or even a drill with a left-hand thread? With one of these devices, you can sometimes drill only partway through the stuck bolt (or in this case, the anode rod plug). If you can do that, you avoid introducing metal chips into the tank. Regardless, I would always start with Dick's oil and tap-tap-tap, then put the extractor device to work. Try turning it with a hand-turned tap wrench at first. If you really can't get it, an impact wrench as Wavery pointed out might be the way to go. But avoid over-slam-torquing the extractor. If it breaks off in the hole, you are in really deep yogurt because it is hardened steel, and you can't drill into it without special bits.

Just as thought, I have heard that if you press a piece of dry ice against the broken stub, the thermal shock may break it loose. Or at least it may shrink the diameter of the stub enough to loosen the grip. Never tried it, though. Dry ice is available in supermarkets around here..

Incidentally, I followed the old mechanic's rule. You only need an extractor if you don't have one. So buy a set of extractors and put them on the shelf. Sure enough, I bought a set of extractors 20 years ago, and I've never had to use them.

I don't envy you that process.

Bill

Hi Bill,

Thanks for your note. Great idea on the screw extractor/EZ-Out. The anode laughed at mine. Made zero progress with it. Didn't think about a left-handed drill bit, but I doubt that would have worked if the screw extractor failed. I like the impact wrench idea -- I hadn't thought of that, but that will be my go-to if it ever happens again.

I have a set of cobalt drill bits -- they're pricey, but are good at removing difficult-to-drill materials, like stainless steel. It certainly took awhile, but low and slow with some lubricant eventually did the trick. Ugh. It happened a few years ago now, but it still makes me cringe.

Dave

[JohnMD]

All,

Before my neighbor and I got the anode rod out, I was starting to have many visions of horrible outcomes. I am glad we got it out before reading these replies, or I would have really started to sweat! Anyway, the old rod was in really bad shape...more than half gone. I suppose keeping the threads from seizing is another good reason to check/replace it yearly, rather than letting it sit for several years.

John