Upcoming torsion bar replacement

[BrucePerens]

I bet the spring steel is harder. Might be difficult to grind.

[Larryjb]

Finally got one oil change done. Then discovered that I had no replacement filter. I thought I had 3 or 4... (always wanted to use that guy!)

One more oil change, then get the winter tires off, then it's torsion bar time!

[Larryjb]

I attempted to replace the curb side torsion bar today. It is the larger of the two (13/16). I'll post pictures later, but BOTH front torsion bars were 3/4". Sonja told me that the curb side would be 13/16, presumably because of the awning. Perhaps an awning was added later and the torsion bar not upgraded, or TM made a mistake on this one. I also had to grind the guide holes larger.

However, when I tried to install the new torsion bar, the end that fits into the lift arm was sitting about 20 degrees clockwise from vertical. There was no way I would be able to wrestle the lift arm without moving the shell forwards more. To do that, I'd have to lower the shell to adjust all the pocket stops. To do that, I'd have to reinstall the old torsion bar again.


So, the old torsion bar is back in, and the TM all buttoned up again. I want to contact Sonja and ask if the 13/16 torsion bar requires a different lift arm. It's going to be quite a squeeze to get the torsion bar in there.

[Larryjb]

Originally Posted by BrucePerens

I bet the spring steel is harder. Might be difficult to grind.

The spring steel is much harder. I tried to file off a corner to get it into the slot of the frame. I also tried to grind a portion of the frame slot. I ground down my dremel grindstone more than the frame! (I probably needed a different grindstone, but I got it in.)

[BrucePerens]

Larry,

To replace the torsion bar, you will need to lift the shell off of the lift arm. You can do this with a farm jack and some wood to distribute the load and protect the shell. Don't forget to remove the shoulder bolt that holds the shell to the lift arm before you start lifting. You need that lift arm free because the torsion bar isn't straight at rest, as you've discovered. The lift arm will give you enough leverage to move it around.

Or maybe yours has pins rather than shoulder bolts.

This is probably all a two-person job. I have stuck my arm through the vinyl flap to have one hand inside the shell and the other outside, to remove the shoulder bolt, working on both sides at once. But maybe that wasn't such a great idea. I'd hate for someone to get pinned that way.

I think that same lift arm fits all of the different diameter bars.

To remove the torsion bar from the lift arm, and get the new one in, try using a clamp like a vise on the wide axis near where the four bolts go, not the narrow axis which is pierced by the bolts. Squeeze the arm there with some force, and the narrow axis should loosen on the torsion bar, and expand enough to allow the new bar in. Don't over-do it, squeeze just enough to let that bar in.

Yes, spring steel is like tool steel, while the frame is much softer.

[Larryjb]

Thanks Bruce,

I actually was able to completely remove the old torsion bar without removing the lift arm from the shell. However, removing the lift arm from the shell as you say may also be necessary to install the new torsion bar.

Interestingly, the new torsion bars have threads on one end, presumably so the lift arms can grip onto the ends better.

[BrucePerens]

There's a chance that you can remove the piece that supports the bar, under the trailer, and lower the lift arm out of the shell without having to lift the shell. It's held in with three or so lag bolts. I haven't looked under my trailer to see if this is possible. Don't strip out the holes, that piece supports a share of the shell weight. And you'll need some wood pieces or a jack to hold up that corner of the shell. Gee, that would make things easier, if it works.

[Larryjb]

Bruce,

I'm not too keen on removing the bracket on the underside of the trailer. Bolts can have a static friction that will not be restored when resecured, or will result in a weakened attachment when retorqued as the wood is compressed further. Also, while removing the bracket may allow me to align the lift arm to the torsion bar, there would be a lot of tension making reattaching the bracket more difficult and possibly elongate the mounting holes. Maybe that wouldn't happen to anyone else, but Murphy's law says that will definitely happen to me!

I do think my best bet is to back off all 4 pocket stop bolts so that the shell opens with the lift arms a little forwards from vertical. This will allow me to better align the new torsion bar to the lift arm. I may have to remove the lift arm to enlarge the hole a little, so I should make sure I have an entire day to work on this.

I haven't heard from Sonja yet. They were quick to reply when I was buying something! (She did reply quickly to a question I had a year or two ago, so maybe my e-mail got buried.)

Rain in the next few days, so this will have to wait a few days or more.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by rickst29

Slightly OT: My overweight 2619 also has a pretty severe lifting problem with the front shell (factory A/C, plus about 35lbs of Solar panels). Bars for the "stern" of the shell are still OK, but the "bow" pair require a ton of effort. In comparison to upgrading the bars, it might be cheaper and easier to replace the two "glass" panels with flex. But I'll SWAG that the bars up front are pretty much worn out after more than a dozen years, and 35 lbs won't be enough "weight loss" to make a huge difference.

This sounds difficult, so I went ahead and I changed the "glass" panels to flex panels. I won't be trying the lift until my new battery arrives 1-2 weeks,and I proceed with interior mods. (The LFP battery will be inside the coach.)

[Larryjb]

Originally Posted by rickst29

This sounds difficult, so I went ahead and I changed the "glass" panels to flex panels. I won't be trying the lift until my new battery arrives 1-2 weeks,and I proceed with interior mods. (The LFP battery will be inside the coach.)

I don't think torsion bar replacement has to be difficult. I'm trying to do this without any direction from TM. I should try sending Sonja another e-mail, but I'm sure once I figure this out it won't be difficult.

I managed to remove and replace the original torsion bar just fine. Installing a new one can't be too difficult. My big concern will likely be making sure the upper shell doesn't fall and collapse during the replacement.

Another method to support the upper shell may be to raise BOTH sides above the height of the box, then insert a 2x4 and let the upper shell rest on the 2x4. Once I get this done, and I will, I'll post a step-by-step for others.