TrailManor Owner's Forum  

Go Back   TrailManor Owner's Forum > TrailManor Technical Discussions > Frame
Register FAQ Members List Calendar

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-22-2019, 05:07 PM   #1
amijab
Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 18
Default Bumper just broke going down the freeway!

Has anyone had their bumper storage brake going down
The freeway before? Somehow are bumper broke and everything inside went flying down the freeway. Sad day. Not even sure where to get if fixed and how much this will be.
Anyone else had this amazing experience before?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20190622_152910.jpg
Views:	345
Size:	2.29 MB
ID:	18355   Click image for larger version

Name:	20190622_152903.jpg
Views:	349
Size:	3.17 MB
ID:	18356  
amijab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2019, 08:39 PM   #2
Bill
Site Team
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,216
Default

If I understand the pictures correctly, what is broken is not the bumper, but just the sheet metal pan hanging beneath the bumper, extending fully side-to-side, and forward about a foot under the rear storage compartment. This pan is not intended to carry heavy stuff. It is made of rather light sheet metal, and is attached to the underside of the frame with about a dozen sheet metal screws, each going into a hole drilled in a frame member. The screws are rather small, there are not very many of them, and worst of all, they rust because they are exposed to all the crud on the road. All of this means that the pan is not very sturdy, and becomes less so with age. Again, it is intended to carry only lightweight stuff. Mine carried sewer hoses (two lengths) and the crank for the in the wide center part. In the left bay, the coiled up power cord. And on the right, a set of jumper cables, a long ratchet strap, and a box of latex gloves. As I say, lightweight stuff.

If you have been carrying heavy stuff, or exposed the pan to a lot of road salt, this is what caused the pan attachment to fail. The good news is that you still have the pan - you don't have to replace it. What you should do is extract all the screws that are rusted or broken or whose holes are questionable. Take one of the best screws to a hardware store, and buy a couple dozen just like it. Get yourself a corded electric drill and a high quality drill bit of the size appropriate to the screws - remember you will be screwing into steel. Prop the pan up into place on a bunch of cardboard boxes or whatever. Drill a bunch of holes though the pan and the frame above it, and screw the pan back into place. Rather than using a hand-driven screwdriver, a screwdriver bit for your drill will help a lot.

Suggestion - don't try to reuse the existing screws. They are too buggered up to trust. And don't try to reuse the old holes in the pan and the frame unless they are really clean. You can put the new holes near the existing ones, and I would suggest that you add a new hole midway between each pair of existing ones. Stainless screws would be a good idea.

Yes, I have done this. No, I didn't enjoy it. You will be lying on your back, working upward, with rust and dirt falling in your face (wear goggles). It will take two or three hours, but will cost only a couple bucks for the new screws. When you are done, and still remembering how much you disliked doing it, clear the heavy stuff out of the pan.

Bill
__________________
2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L
Bill's Tech Stuff album
Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 03:53 AM   #3
eddugo
Senior Member
 
eddugo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Big Bend area of Florida
Posts: 162
Default

I am wondering, looking at the pic of the left side, if the rear of the trailer dragged on the road coming out of a gas station or driveway? The plastic is scraped and the sheet metal looks torn. maybe it hooked something like a storm sewer??
__________________
2009 2720SL
15" Tire Upgrade
Lift Kit
Anderson WD hitch
2016 Ford T-150 Transit Van
Ecoboost
eddugo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 01:11 PM   #4
tentcamper
TrailManor Master
 
tentcamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
Default

Im think its the pan to from what I see. Just this year I was looking under my camper and found that about 70% of my screws holding the pan and 2 end sections had falling out or pulled free. I installed new screws and added about 8 new additional ones figuring the the aluminum holes had failed and I need new and additional holes for the screws.

Im with Bill dont put a lot of weight in the bumper. Maybe a total of 30-40 lbs in the 3 sections
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
tentcamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 04:16 PM   #5
eddugo
Senior Member
 
eddugo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Big Bend area of Florida
Posts: 162
Default

I'm wondering if aluminum "pop rivets" would be a better way to hold up the pan??
__________________
2009 2720SL
15" Tire Upgrade
Lift Kit
Anderson WD hitch
2016 Ford T-150 Transit Van
Ecoboost
eddugo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 05:52 PM   #6
wrenchami
Site Sponsor
 
wrenchami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 40
Default

I was thinking of some preventative attention to the bumper pan after reading this thread. I like the idea of pop rivets. Steel rivets might be a better choice than aluminum because it avoids the dissimilar metals issue.
__________________
'14 2922KB, 2x6V 115AH GC batteries up front. Slide out galley cabinet trays. All LED lighting. Awning LED light strip. LED night lights, front cabinets & in head. Liner-free shower mod. Exterior vent exhaust fan mod for head. Detachable shelves on galley walls. Bluetooth audio amp over fridge.

2017 Hyundai Santa Fe TV, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Yandina160 combiner.

PO'd '78 American Clipper (21.5' class C), TM '03 3023QS couch model, Classic '75 GMC Eleganza II 26' Class A.
wrenchami is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 07:17 PM   #7
tentcamper
TrailManor Master
 
tentcamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
Default

Most of the pan is screwed into the underside of the camper, which is aluminum. I think it's 5-6 screws in the bottom of the camper an 2-3 in the frame on each side of the pan. Those 2-3 also hold the end of the bumper covers.
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
tentcamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2024, 07:40 PM   #8
smithdarrell345
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2024
Posts: 2
Default

How much the bumper going for
smithdarrell345 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2024, 09:16 PM   #9
Kidkraz
Site Sponsor
 
Kidkraz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,089
Default

What model/year of TM do you have. Can you clarify what exactly is needed, or post a picture of the broken part/items. These parts are listed on page 21 of the 2013 parts book.

15020 Bumper Pan Rear
15021 Bumper Pan Front DS
15022 Bumper Pan Front ODS
15023 Bumper Lid (75080)
__________________
2013 2619
80 watt solar panel/swing hitch/low profile A/C.
Enduro 4445 caravan mover
2016 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 Hemi
Installed powered folding tow mirrors

Stopped playing with airplanes, now I just enjoy watching them fly by.
Kidkraz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2024, 09:09 AM   #10
Wavery
TrailManor Master
 
Wavery's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,942
Default

I used to have a 2004 2720SL (years ago). I noticed that a bunch of those screws were missing in that pan. I drilled out the original holes with a 3/16" drill and I replaced all of the screws with 3/16" aluminum pop rivets 5/8" long.

I have a rule that I use on any trailer that I've ever owned. When a sheet metal screw falls out, I always replace it with a pop-rivet instead of a screw (where possible) unless the screw goes into wood, like cabinetry. If the screw goes into wood, I use 1 size up larger screw and use a backing block where possible.

All trailers (not just TrailManors) are subject to a lot of vibration and jarring, especially from the axle to the rear bumper. This is especially true with single axle trailers.

It also looks like you will definitely need to replace your power cord. I found it best to install an inlet where the old plastic access hole is (remove and discard) and use a new detachable cord (listed below). It's so much easier to use and you can store the cord so much easier. Just cut your old power cord off, leaving about 2' sticking out of the hole. Strip the wires on the remaining cord and install the new power inlet (listed below). Then push the old cord and new inlet in the hole and screw the inlet down.

https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Extens...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...VMVLAN5UJ&th=1
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
Wavery is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bike racks on the rear bumper? Bill Exterior 29 03-17-2016 06:27 PM
Bumper storage Bailey'sMom Exterior 1 07-04-2013 05:53 AM
Bolt on bumper bike receiver CeeWoo Exterior 7 09-23-2012 07:32 PM
Dodge Ram has standard Class 3 bumper RobertMac Towing and Hitching 6 07-01-2007 10:17 AM
Bumper Sleeve for sewer hose Civil_War_Buff Plumbing 24 03-16-2004 10:48 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 2022 Trailmanor Owners Page.