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11-29-2010, 10:05 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 20
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Lowering the stabilizer scissor jacks
Hello guys,.
I have a hook tool to hook up to a drill. Is there a powerfull drill to lift the TrailManor. or is it only lower it down to the ground and i have to do the rest of the work. I'm just being lazy . I'm just wonder how everyone else is doing it. MAN POWER
__________________
2000 2619 TM:D
2001 yukon XL v8 5.3l:)
2005 tundra v8 4.7;)
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11-29-2010, 10:36 PM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey45
Hello guys,.
I have a hook tool to hook up to a drill. Is there a powerfull drill to left the TrailManor. or is it only lower it down to the ground and i have to do the rest of the work. I'm just being lazy . I'm just wonder how everyone else is doing it. MAN POWER
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I use this one:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDMQ8wIwAg#
It's a 2-speed and has plenty of torque. I use the high speed to lower the jacks in 2-3 seconds. Then I put it on low and lift the trailer. It works great.
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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11-29-2010, 10:43 PM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 621
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I am using an 18v 3/8 drill that i picked up at Harbor Freight for around $15. It is powerful enough to raise and lower the jacks for normal stabilizing but not enough power to use the jacks to lift the TM for tire changing --> would need the MAN POWER for that
Tim
__________________
Previous owners of a great 2010 [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] TM2720SL.
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11-30-2010, 02:34 AM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 432
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I use an 18V Ryobi 2 speed from Home Depot. On low speed it has so much torque that it is difficult to keep it from twisting out of my two-hand grip.
It will raise the trailer though.
Tom
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TM 3023
TV 2010 F-150 4.6, factory tow pkg, air bags
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11-30-2010, 05:50 AM
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#5
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Gloucester, VA
Posts: 340
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Ditto other reply's but mine is a 18V Makita.
__________________
2006 TM2720 w/Lift and 15" Maxxis 225 75R15 E Tires
2004 GMC Sierra 4X4 w/Prodigy
2014 Durango 3.6L AWD w/Equal-i-zer Hitch & Prodigy
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11-30-2010, 11:50 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 20
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Thanks Guys for your info. I bought a drill at harbor freight tools that thing was burning and Smoking and did not lift the Trailmanor. I return it. that's why I ask you guys for some advise. thank you again
__________________
2000 2619 TM:D
2001 yukon XL v8 5.3l:)
2005 tundra v8 4.7;)
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11-30-2010, 12:08 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speckul8r
Ditto other reply's but mine is a 18V Makita.
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What model drill do you have? dose it have 2 speeds
__________________
2000 2619 TM:D
2001 yukon XL v8 5.3l:)
2005 tundra v8 4.7;)
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11-30-2010, 12:17 PM
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#8
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey45
What model drill do you have? dose it have 2 speeds
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If you decide to buy the Craftsman, consider buying this kit:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8&blockType=G8
I will give you $60 for the right angle drill. You can keep both batteries (they are ~$35 each) the charger and case. All I want is the bear RA drill. I have all the other stuff.
I have a $300 Dewalt 18V drill that I use for my work. I bought this Craftsman 19.2V because I didn't want to take my DeWalt camping and leave it somewhere. I have found this Craftsman drill to be all as good as my DeWalt. I've had it for almost 3-years. I bought it for cranking up the roof on our Coleman 12' PU camper and it has been heavily used.
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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11-30-2010, 05:09 PM
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#9
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Guest
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I use that Craftsman too...I think mine is 18V though. Have had it for 7 years and it does a great job when needed. It is big and heavy though, the newer lithium battery units are a lot lighter.
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11-30-2010, 05:42 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,179
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I would not expect an inexpensive 18-volt drill, like my Makita, to actually lift the TM. It is great for running the jacks down in a hurry, and mashing them a turn or two into the ground. That stabilizes the trailer, but does not lift it. And it is great for running the jacks back up in a hurry. But lifting? Why?
If the trailer needs to be levelled, we do it by pulling it up on blocks with the tow vehicle. Quick and easy.
If I need to change a tire (done it many times!), I lift the frame 6 or 7 inches with my hydraulic bottle jack (an easy lift), then run the stabilizers down to the ground with the drill. Often that is enough of a lift, but if it is not, I lower the bottle jack while the trailer is being supported by the stabilizers, put blocks under the bottle jack, lift the camper a second time with the bottle jack, and lower the stabilizers again. Two lifts is always enough. And by using the hydraulic jack for the heavy lifting, and the drill-powered stabilizers just to hold it once it is up, there is no strain.
I still carry the crank handle in the rear bumper compartment in my TM, and I admire it every time I open the compartment to get the sewer hose out. But I've seldom used it.
Bill
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