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04-25-2022, 11:42 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 234
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12V power side question in a 2005 2720 Trailmanor
Does anyone know if the 12V electrical side on the 2005 TM is AC or DC current?
Any issues or special consideration I need to install new LED patio lights? I am also considering adding an LED light strip to be powered on the same circuit and switch as my patio light is on.
I plan on upgrading to the following lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075Y...Q1POP4BF&psc=1
And
https://www.boogeylights.com/awning-...utm_medium=cpc
Anyone have any expierience with these or installing similar lights?
Thanks in advance.
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04-25-2022, 11:46 AM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralcruze
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Nice to have you in the forum! 12 volts systems are DC (Direct Current) The lights you have chosen are, IMO great replacements/add-ons.
Post pictures when you are done to show off!
Kory
__________________
Moved to the "Dark Side" (Pop up's for 15 years)
Bought what DW calls "The Golden Unicorn"
TM 2006 2720sl
DH/DW 2018 Ford F-150
North Utah
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04-25-2022, 01:00 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,212
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As Kory says, 12-volt systems operate from a battery, which is always DC.
One thing to consider is the converter installed in your TM. In more or less the time frame you are talking about, TM used converters from Magnetek, aka Parallax As I recall, the model numbers were in the 6300 or 7300 series. These early converters had a couple of issues. One of them was that the DC output - the one that powers most of the circuits in the TM, including lights - was unfiltered. Short but significant over-voltages were common. Incandescent lights don't care about these short transients, but LEDs are (or were) sensitive to them. Early burnout of LEDs was a common result.
If you don't have a Magnetek or Parallax converter, it is not an issue. And it is possible that LEDs are over-voltage-protected these days - early ones were not.
Just something to think about.
Bill
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04-25-2022, 01:05 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmikesell
Nice to have you in the forum! 12 volts systems are DC (Direct Current) The lights you have chosen are, IMO great replacements/add-ons.
Post pictures when you are done to show off!
Kory
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Thanks Kory,
Just needed a check because someone at boogie lights said something funny to me that did not make much sense. They stated that I might have a 12v AC system and not DC. I always knew 12V to be DC.
Anyhow, if I go through with it I will def. post pics.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
As Kory says, 12-volt systems operate from a battery, which is always DC.
One thing to consider is the converter installed in your TM. In more or less the time frame you are talking about, TM used converters from Magnetek, aka Parallax As I recall, the model numbers were in the 6300 or 7300 series. These early converters had a couple of issues. One of them was that the DC output - the one that powers most of the circuits in the TM, including lights - was unfiltered. Short but significant over-voltages were common. Incandescent lights don't care about these short transients, but LEDs are (or were) sensitive to them. Early burnout of LEDs was a common result.
If you don't have a Magnetek or Parallax converter, it is not an issue. And it is possible that LEDs are over-voltage-protected these days - early ones were not.
Just something to think about.
Bill
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Awe shucks Bill I think I have one of the units you mention. I was hoping to get a little more light out there but seems like it's going to be a harder call than just checking the circuit for total amps. I dont want to have to switch out LED units as much as I have to switch out bulbs.
Thanks for your insight.
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04-25-2022, 01:17 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,279
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Up until a few months ago, we had a Parallax 6300 converter, and it had worked fine with LED retrofit lights we put into the existing fixtures. Got them from Command Electronics. Most of our camping was boondocking, but we've had those lights for 10+ years, and still had many hours where they were powered by the converter.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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04-26-2022, 06:01 AM
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#6
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 86
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We have a 2005 2720 that had a Parallax converter. I had upgraded the lights early on to LED's with no issues. I have since changed out the converter as well and you might consider it. It is very straightforward and has a few improvements over the old parallax, the big one being the charging system.
__________________
Jim and Kelli Gizzi
Ferndale, WA
2005 2720QB
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04-26-2022, 08:18 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito
Up until a few months ago, we had a Parallax 6300 converter, and it had worked fine with LED retrofit lights we put into the existing fixtures. Got them from Command Electronics. Most of our camping was boondocking, but we've had those lights for 10+ years, and still had many hours where they were powered by the converter.
Dave
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Interesting... i might give the patio lights a go and see. May I ask, you state the converter was replaced. Was there an issue with it or were you just upgrading?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jagizzi
We have a 2005 2720 that had a Parallax converter. I had upgraded the lights early on to LED's with no issues. I have since changed out the converter as well and you might consider it. It is very straightforward and has a few improvements over the old parallax, the big one being the charging system.
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Why did you change your converter if you don't mind me asking?
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04-26-2022, 09:40 AM
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#8
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yes, they hunt lions.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,361
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Let me answer (on (behalf of Jim, and others)
Quote:
Originally Posted by coralcruze
Interesting... i might give the patio lights a go and see. May I ask, you state the converter was replaced. Was there an issue with it or were you just upgrading?
Why did you change your converter if you don't mind me asking?
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The original Parallax had a strong tendency to overcharge batteries, basically "boiling them to death" at a young age.
Many versions of the subsequent WFCO charges have had a strong tendency to leave batteries undercharged (a bad thing for Lead-Acid batteries, and also reducing the amount of stored power available for your use).
Although I have bought an excellent "WildKat" upgrade, which could do a nearly perfect job with lead acid battery types, I'm not entirely please with the way it handles Lithium batteries. https://www.bestconverter.com/PD-465...te-_p_677.html. I might be doing another upgrade into a fully programmable "Victron" converter, with a small issue of having to implement my own exhaust fan for when it gets overly warm.
But I would also have to settle for 30A maximum charging current, down from the 55-60A which the WildKat can provide. (That would be a show-stopper for a person who chargers batteries from a generator, because it basically doubles the charging time.) Since I don't use any large 12-VDC appliances when I'm plugged in, and have no generator, that is irrelevant for me - but a VERY big deal for others.
__________________
TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 800 watts solar. 600AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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04-26-2022, 09:59 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29
The original Parallax had a strong tendency to overcharge batteries, basically "boiling them to death" at a young age.
Many versions of the subsequent WFCO charges have had a strong tendency to leave batteries undercharged (a bad thing for Lead-Acid batteries, and also reducing the amount of stored power available for your use).
Although I have bought an excellent "WildKat" upgrade, which could do a nearly perfect job with lead acid battery types, I'm not entirely please with the way it handles Lithium batteries. https://www.bestconverter.com/PD-465...te-_p_677.html. I might be doing another upgrade into a fully programmable "Victron" converter, with a small issue of having to implement my own exhaust fan for when it gets overly warm.
But I would also have to settle for 30A maximum charging current, down from the 55-60A which the WildKat can provide. (That would be a show-stopper for a person who chargers batteries from a generator, because it basically doubles the charging time.) Since I don't use any large 12-VDC appliances when I'm plugged in, and have no generator, that is irrelevant for me - but a VERY big deal for others.
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Excellent write up. Appreciate your expierience here. I have seen battery overcharge protection devices for RVs. Wouldn't that work with the Parallax converters to protect batteries?
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04-26-2022, 11:36 AM
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#10
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralcruze
Interesting... i might give the patio lights a go and see. May I ask, you state the converter was replaced. Was there an issue with it or were you just upgrading?
Why did you change your converter if you don't mind me asking?
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I upgraded converters because I installed lithium batteries, which were expensive and not compatible with the charging algorithm of the old converter.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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