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Old 10-25-2023, 01:45 PM   #11
joejoebo
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I'm pretty sure I found the problem. After you said something about folding down the camper that a wire could break. This is the cable for the wires running to the other box that is on the side of the camper. The white wire is completely into. Sound right to you?
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Old 10-25-2023, 02:08 PM   #12
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I cleaned up the white wire and spliced in another. It is working again. Now just to clean up and tape everything and I'm good to go. Thank you soooo much. I never would have thought to look at where the trailer folds down like you said. Saved me a repair bill!!!!
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Old 10-25-2023, 02:59 PM   #13
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Good stuff!

Your picture in your post #6 above shows a cable running into the "other box", and a second cable running past it. You must NOT leave both of these cables energized - connected to the 120VAC source. If you cleaned up the one running into the "other box", that's great. But you must disconnect the one running past the "other box" at both ends - both the source and the other end at the air conditioner.

I'll review the thread when I get a chance, and make sure I understand the situation.

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Old 10-25-2023, 03:10 PM   #14
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The other black cable running past the other box is a replacement cable for the antenna on the roof as the original had failed. My bad for not explaining.
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Old 10-25-2023, 04:34 PM   #15
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Default I'm glad you found that broken conductor. The whole capable is inadequate.

Here's what you had:

If the "black and "green" segments are undisturbed and were unable to receive electric current from white wire), then voltage difference between the wires could show full voltage, even with just one strand intact along the white wire (through the break).

But with most of the white wire strands copper damaged and unable to carry larger current (through damaged segment), the remaining portion was unable to support all the current which the the AC unit (or its heater strip) needed to receive when powered up.

The tiny portion of wire which was functional became overheated (creating a fire hazard), and the "voltage drop" through a few overloaded strands was to much for the AC to start up or run.
- - -
There are, however, issues which concern me with your photo of the broken cable. The outside insulation appears super thin, and the 3 insulated wires were NOT assembled into the cable with additional fibrous materials stranded into the cable(along with the twisting wires) in order to fill" the round center of the cable evenly.

That extra "fill" prevents movement and scraping of the main conductor wires against each other, and against the outer insulation jacket. The outside insulation is also too thin, that's a mere "300 volt" cable assembly which should not be used with sun, weather, wind damaging the insulation.

The label on the type of cable you should be using is "SEOOW". That's a 600 volt cable with superior outer insulation (sun resistant and weatherproof), and it includes the required fill. Compare your cable to this photo of an the partly stripped end of an SEOOW cable, and you'll see the differences.

Unfortunately, SEOOW cable is bit hard to find in short lengths, and it's costly.
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Old 10-26-2023, 06:52 AM   #16
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Thanks again for all the information. I work with a lot of electricians and they may have the proper cable that I need. I will replace it.
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Old 10-26-2023, 11:51 AM   #17
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Like this?
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Old 10-26-2023, 11:53 AM   #18
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Default here's a low internet price, no minum length.

https://nassaunationalcable.com/prod...4&currency=USD.

I have no idea of their shipping costs.
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Old 10-26-2023, 11:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joejoebo View Post
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No, mere "SOOW" is built with an inferior outer wrapping insulation layer (generally rubber only, more prone to cracking).

Southwire also tends to use fewer strands than some other manufacturers, but that's a smaller consideration. Tut the insulation type is the more important factor.
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Old 10-26-2023, 02:12 PM   #20
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Thanks for the link. I just ordered a 5 foot piece. That should do me. 25 bucks with shipping. You have been a real help!
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