Leveling confusion

I have read all the posts I could find on leveling the TM. The dealer just told me to use 2x4's under the wheels. The manual (for 2007 model 2619) says to first level front to back with you tongue jacks (placing a bubble on your refrigerator) then to use your scissor jack for the side leveling for your low side.

So where do the 2x4's come in? Also, aren't you supposed to try and level it before you open it, so it will open properly? Are you supposed to slide 2x4's under the tires after you lift low side with scissor jack or do you just leave the scissor jack up to keep it level. Very confusing when you are new to all of this. Someone else posed my same question in a previous post, but no one addressed the question. I saw these on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...luc_bxgy_01_01

Looked kind of cool and only 8 lbs and compact. (Tri Linnx Levelers) Instead of lugging 2x4's around.

Second question: If you change your 14" tires to 15" tires and install a lift kit, will you still have enough length in your scissor jacks after your trailer gets lifted up to utilize them properly?

These leveling blocks are great. Light weight, don't soak up water and light weight and wash off easily..
Leveling process should be. Level side to side first using leveling blocks. Then level front to back using tongue jack. Once everything is level, use your corner jacks to keep it that way. You may need extra blocks under the corner jacks on very uneven ground. Do not use 2x4. as they will not allow you a flat even surface for the tires to sit on. This causes stress on the tire structure if left for any time, If you do use wood, use 2X8 or 2x10 so that the entire contact surface of the tires is on a flat surface.

First, many people use blocks of the sort you referenced. These can be used under the wheels and/or under the jacks. Second, owning a 2007 you already have your trailer lifted. This became standard sometime during the 2006 model year.

The "normal" way to level is to get it correct side to side using the blocks (or 2x6s or 2x8s, 2x4 is pretty narrow). Just pull the TM wheel on to whatever combination of blocks you need to raise the lower side. Since you are now close to level side to side, you can use the tongue jack to level front to back. You are very close now, so you can set up your TM. Then fine level using the top of the refrigerator as suggested. You can now fine tune front to back using the tongue jack. Then fine tune side to side using the scissor jacks. I only use the scissor jacks to fine tune. They are plenty strong enough to support the TM, but I find using them to perform major leveling is very difficult as major adjustments tend to tweak the TM frame, making accurate leveling extremely difficult. You will probably get many suggestions on this as everyone has their own 'method', but m0st will just be variations on a common theme...

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by modhatter

I have read all the posts I could find on leveling the TM. The dealer just told me to use 2x4's under the wheels. The manual (for 2007 model 2619) says to first level front to back with you tongue jacks (placing a bubble on your refrigerator) then to use your scissor jack for the side leveling for your low side.

So where do the 2x4's come in? Also, aren't you supposed to try and level it before you open it, so it will open properly? Are you supposed to slide 2x4's under the tires after you lift low side with scissor jack or do you just leave the scissor jack up to keep it level. Very confusing when you are new to all of this. Someone else posed my same question in a previous post, but no one addressed the question. I saw these on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...luc_bxgy_01_01

Looked kind of cool and only 8 lbs and compact. (Tri Linnx Levelers) Instead of lugging 2x4's around.

Second question: If you change your 14" tires to 15" tires and install a lift kit, will you still have enough length in your scissor jacks after your trailer gets lifted up to utilize them properly?

When you 1st pull into the campsite, check your level condition, side to side. If you are a full bubble off (side to side), it's best to level the trailer using the Lynx Levelers under the tires 1st to get the trailer fairly level.

Once you have the side to side fairly level, block the downhill side of the tires so the trailer doesn't roll away when you unhitch. Crank the tongue off of the trailer hitch ball with the tongue jack. Once you are sure that the trailer won't roll away, take off the safety chains, wire harness and brake cable. Pull the TV forward a few feet, then lower the trailer tongue until the trailer is level fore and aft. Then lower your stabilizers and fine tune your leveling.

After the trailer is level, raise your roofs and continue your set-up.

Lynx levelers are great. I carry 2 sets. If I need 2 or more layers, 2 sets are handy because I can make a ramp at different heights. Once the trailer is level, I have extra to make stops on the downhill side of the tires.

I'd do it in reverse. Level side to side first, while you are still connected to your TV. I use Lynx Levelers rather than boards. Here's how I do it:

I have level bubble gauges screwed onto my TM, a front/back and a side to side. When we move into a space, i get out and check the side to side gauge first. If we're off significantly, I'll pull forward a foot or so, place a Lynx Leveler pad behind the low tire, then back onto it and check the bubble again. If we're OK, then I disconnect the trailer and use the tongue jack to adjust the front to back to a level position. That's it. Once level, I drop the four stabilizer jacks to give the trailer more support.

If you don't have the bubble gauges, you can just use a small carpenter's level.

Hope this helps.

Keith

[mcgyver210]

I use this BAL Tire Leveler & an IPhone APP that tells you exactly what to do for leveling.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by mcgyver210

I use this BAL Tire Leveler & an IPhone APP that tells you exactly what to do for leveling.

I used a Bal Leveler on my Coleman pop-up and loved it. The 1st time that I tried it on the TM, I decided that it was time to try the Lynx Levelers. They are so much less work, lighter and easier to store. Especially if you have 2 sets and can lay out 2 or 3 levels at once. Just drive on and pull up until it is level then stop.

I also found that the jack-screw on the Bal leveler hit the fender skirt before I got the camper level if I needed to go over 1.5"

Maybe if I was 20-years younger it might still be OK...........

[mcgyver210]

Hm I haven't had any issue so far & can also use my Dewalt Drill. Maybe I just haven't needed much leveling OH well it works so far & I also have leveling pads if needed since I am an overkill personality type.

Only issue has been sometimes getting it around the 15" tires.

Mine is sitting outside now leveled with the BAL Leveler.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by mcgyver210

Hm I haven't had any issue so far & can also use my Dewalt Drill. Maybe I just haven't needed much leveling OH well it works so far & I also have leveling pads if needed since I am an overkill personality type.

Only issue has been sometimes getting it around the 15" tires.

Mine is sitting outside now leveled with the BAL Leveler.

The Ball Leveler keeps the trailer more stable and there is no need for chalks once the tire is in the leveler.

I've made the levelling job just about as easy as it can be without going to an expensive auto-levelling system. I use 3 tools to accomplish this:

1) a BAL leveller, which just happens to have a 3/4" male hex head
2) an 18V cordless impact driver with a 3/4" socket attached
3) the bubble level available at this link: http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-05515-...45682&sr=1-145 - it mounts on the trailer side and swivels 90 degrees horizontally so that you can check level both front-to-back and side-to-side.

Steps:

1) Chock trailer wheels
2) Remove WDH and sway bars, then remove trailer from hitch
3) Remove hitch bar from receiver
4) Check front-back level with level gauge, use electric tongue jack to achieve front-back level
5) Swivel level gauge and check side-side level - decide which side BAL leveler needs to go on
6) Install BAL leveler on tire that must be raised - use impact wrench to adjust to level
7) Chock the tire without BAL (optional)
8) Using impact wrench, lower scissors levelling jacks and engage to a few turns past touching ground/asphalt/blocks - they just happen to be 3/4" hex head, too!

The whole process takes less than 10 minutes and results in a level, stable trailer without much effort.

One suggestion about the swivel level gauge above if you buy it - install it on the hook-up side of the trailer and not the entry side. Otherwise the wind will blow it to the open position while driving (school of hard knocks lesson!)