Silver kill button

Hello,
I was wondering if any knows how to adjust the height of the kill switch in the bathroom. For some reason my bathroom wall doesn't come down far enough. The hinges look fine and there are no screw heads sticking up. Is the button adjustable? I will work for a while then the chirp noise and off everything goes. I can jimmy rig it so it stays on but I don't want to stress the hinges. Any ideas? Let me know. Thanks!

Eric Stone

[Bill]

Rather than fiddle with the height of the switch, I glued a small shim to the bottom of the folding part of the bathroom wall. As I recall, the shim was a piece of flat aluminum, about 1/16" thick and 3/4" square. Works just fine. Nothing magic about aluminum, of course - most anything else would do.

Bill

Sounds good Bill. I will give it a try. Thanks!

I don't have our unit yet so don't know exactly what the area in question looks like. But consider sticking something like a felt foot or cork foot used to pad things around the house. Easily found at Home Depot or some such and they just stick on. Look pretty good also!

I think part of the problem may be the "silver kill button" as you call it. Our button has a rubber cover on it - maybe yours is supposed to have one, too. The rubber may take up the extra space that is lacking to make good contact.

While camping I had the kill switch fail to turn power on because the wall did not depress it enough. My band aid approach was to just was up some cardboard as a spacer to get me through the tip.

Back at home I removed the nut on the top, removed the switch from the rear storage compartment and adjusted the depth by turning the other nut. The switch is mounted to a small piece of sheet metal by a pair of nuts, one on each side of the sheet metal.

I had a hard time tightening the upper nut and keeping the switch square. So I wedged a screw driver against the switch in the rear compartment and tightened the upper nut from inside. Big mistake. The case of the switch broke.

I ordered a replacement switch from the factory after failing to find one locally. Apparently it is a switch from some sort of car or truck that is not very common.

This time I removed the small piece of sheet metal and mounted the switch. Then I installed the sheet metal. It took a couple of tries to get the depth just right but all is well now.

Without boring you with all of the background, I have found a need to leave the bathroom walls down, but still have power to the rear shell.

Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't use a block to hold the switch down?

(I guess one other potential problem is that I can't positively latch the rear bed, since the latch goes into the bathroom wall. I'm figuring that with the wardrobe cabinet flipped up into position, the bed's not going anywhere anyway, tho.)

Any advice appreciated,

Steve

I would just go into my rear storage compartment and connect the two wires together, bypassing the switch.

The main purpose of the switch is to kill power to the overhead lights because they touch the mattress when closed.

Just remember to reconnect the switch if and when things go back to normal.

[Joe]

The purpose of the switch is to be sure that the overhead lights in the back shell do not come ON and burn something when it is folded down. There should be no problem 'rigging' the switch to stay on as long as you do it so that it will be 'knocked' out of the way so the switch can operate normally when you push the bed in prior to 'fold-down'.