Power Converter Upgrade

[mjlaupp]

PD4600 1 of 2 - or - Installation is the Reverse of the Removal

I decided to upgrade the power converter in my 2004 3326. I did this in my 2003 2720SL using a 7345 converter upgrade kit. It improved the battery life and reduced radio noise. The latest incarnation of the Intelli-Power converter with Charge Wizard is a direct replacement for the Parallex converter installed in my TM. It provides three stage charging and desulfation to extend battery life.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600...placement.html

The included instructons are reproduced below:

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Intelli-Power PD4600 Series Converter Replacemant

Power: (page 1)
Disconnect all power sources prior to removal of the old converter. Power sources may include, but are not limited to:
• 120VAC shoreline power (unplug shoreline power cords)
• Onboard generator (disconnect per manufacturer’s instructions)
• 12VDC battery power (disconnect negative terminal(s) from battery(ies) )

Removal: (page 2)
1. Disconnect all power sources as outlined on page (1) of this manual.
2. Remove front panel by removing (4) screws at bottom of panel.
3. Remove AC power section cover by removing (2) screws.
4. Disconnect the neutral (white) converter feed wire from distribution block, and hot (black) wire from AC mainbreaker. Pull wires thru the hole at the bottom left of the AC power section.
5. Remove the (2) DC power distribution board mounting screws.
6. Pull the DC board outward and remove the blue wire from the top of the board, and red and white wires from the BACK side of the board. Pull wires thru the hole at the bottom right of the DC power section.
7. Remove red wire from the FRONT of the old DC board, and reconnect to the terminal labeled “BATT POS+” on the new DC board. Remove the white wire from the FRONT of the old DC board, and reconnect to the terminal labeled “BATT NEG-“ on the new DC board. Transfer branch circuit wiring in this same fashion.
8. Remove the (4) screws securing the old converter assembly to power center, and remove converter assembly.

Installation: (page 2)
9. Slide new converter into power center. Route black/white/green wire-set into AC power section, and black/white wire-pair into DC section. Secure using (4) screws removed in step #8.
10. In the AC power section, connect new converter neutral (white) wire to neutral distribution block, and converter ground (green) wire to ground bar. Connect hot (black) wire to AC main breaker.
11. Replace AC power section cover and secure using (2) screws removed in step #3.
12. In the DC power section, route new converter DC wires behind new DC power distribution board. Connect new converter power (black) wire to the new DC power distribution board terminal labeled “CONV POS+”. Connect the negative (white) wire to the DC board terminal labeled “CONV NEG-“.
13. Making sure new DC feed wires remain behind DC board, secure DC board to power center using (2) screws removed in step #5.
14. Connect 4-pin header on DC board to 4-pin header on converter assembly using the 4-wire harness (included).
15. Replace power center cover using (4) screws provided with kit.
16. Transfer DC Distribution branch circuit information to the new label provided with the retrofit kit, and adhere label over existing label on the inside of the power center cover. Affix green Replacement Notice label in any unused area of the power center cover.

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In all fairness to PD, they do say that this should be done by a qualified electrician. I'm not a electrician however I do have many years of installation, maintenance and programming of industrial computer and control systems so I consider myself to be a qualified technician for this install.

Mike

[mjlaupp]

PD4600 2 of 3 - or - Installation is NOT the Reverse of the Removal

I decided to upgrade the power converter in my 2004 3326. The included instructons (as modified) are reproduced below:

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Intelli-Power PD4600 Series Converter Replacemant: Modified

Power: (page 1)
Disconnect all power sources prior to removal of the old converter. Power sources may include, but are not limited to:
• 120VAC shoreline power (unplug shoreline power cords)
• Onboard generator (disconnect per manufacturer’s instructions)
• 12VDC battery power (disconnect negative terminal(s) from battery(ies) ) I pulled the battery fuse.

Removal: (page 2)
1. Disconnect all power sources as outlined on page (1) of this manual. OK
2. Remove front panel by removing (4) screws at bottom of panel. OK
3. Remove AC power section cover by removing (2) screws. OK
4. Disconnect the neutral (white) converter feed wire from distribution block, and hot (black) wire from AC fridge/converter breaker. Pull wires through the hole at the bottom left of the AC power section. OK
5. Remove the (2) DC power distribution board mounting screws. OK
6. Pull the DC board outward and remove the blue wire from the top of the board, and red and white wires from the BACK side of the board. Pull wires through the hole at the bottom right of the DC power section. OK
7a. Remove red wire (2 black #10 solid core wires) from the FRONT of the old DC board, and reconnect to the terminal labeled “BATT POS+” on the new DC board. These black wires are so stiff that reconnection can not be done at this time.
7b. Remove the white wire (3 white #10 solid core wires) from the FRONT of the old DC board, and reconnect to the terminal labeled “BATT NEG-“ on the new DC board. These white wires are so stiff that reconnection can not be done at this time.
7c. Transfer branch circuit wiring in this same fashion. 7 of the 9 branch circuit wires are too big to go into the barrier strip on the new DC board. The grommet for these wires pulled out of the box. I marked each of the wires, pulled them out of the box, reinstalled the grommet and re-pulled the wires.
8. Remove the (4) screws securing the old converter assembly to power center, and remove converter assembly. OK

Tools used to this point:

Common screwdriver(s)
Phillips screwdriver
Square head driver (on AC breaker)
Nut driver(s)
Side cutters

Installation: (page 2)
cont. next post

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Mike

[mjlaupp]

PD4600 3 of 3 - or - Installation is NOT the Reverse of the Removal

I decided to upgrade the power converter in my 2004 3326. The included instructons (as modified) are reproduced below:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Intelli-Power PD4600 Series Converter Replacemant: Modified

Power: (page 1)
Disconnect all power sources prior to removal of the old converter. Power sources may include, but are not limited to:
• 120VAC shoreline power (unplug shoreline power cords)
• Onboard generator (disconnect per manufacturer’s instructions)
• 12VDC battery power (disconnect negative terminal(s) from battery(ies) ) I pulled the battery fuse.

Removal: (page 2)
See prev. post

Installation: (page 2) - renumbered
9. Strip branch circuit wires, install a spade lug on each wire and connect to the barrier strip on new DC board.
Circuits 1 - 9 on the old board are installed to terminals 4 - 12 on the new board. Don't forget to transfer the fuses. Note: Terminal #1 and fuse #1 on the new DC board is located behind the mounting box framework.
10. Butt splice additional 6 inches of wire to the battery wires removed from the old DC board (black to black, yellow to white). Replace white wire from neutral buss with longer 8 inch yellow wire.
11. Connect 2 black battery wires to Bat+ terminal on DC board. Connect 2 white battery wires and neutral buss wire to Bat- terminal on DC board.
12. Slide new converter into power center. Route black/white/green wire-set into AC power section, and black/ white wire-pair into DC section. Secure using (4) screws removed in step #8. OK
13. In the AC power section, connect new converter neutral (white) wire to neutral distribution block, and converter ground (green) wire to ground bar. Connect hot (black) wire to AC fridge/converter breaker. Need to but splice in the old splitter for fridge power.
14. Replace AC power section cover and secure using (2) screws removed in step #3. OK
15. In the DC power section, route new converter DC wires behind new DC power distribution board. Connect new converter power (black) wire to the new DC power distribution board terminal labeled “CONV POS+”. Connect the negative (white) wire to the DC board terminal labeled “CONV NEG-“. OK
16. Connect 4-pin header on DC board to 4-pin header on converter assembly using the 4-wire harness (included). OK
17. Making sure new DC feed wires remain behind DC board, secure DC board to power center using (2) screws removed in step #5. OK
18. Transfer DC Distribution branch circuit information to the new label provided with the retrofit kit, and adhere label over existing label on the inside of the power center cover. Affix green Replacement Notice label in any unused area of the power center cover. Do this before installing the cover, it's easier.
19. Replace power center cover using (4) screws provided with kit. OK


Additional tools used:
Allen wrench for batt connections on new DC board
Wire strippers
Wire terminal crimpers
Ink pen
Multimeter

Additional materials needed: (not included in upgrade kit)
Black #10 insulated automotive wire (battery wire extension)
Yellow (or white) #10 insulated automotive wire (battery wire exxtension)
1 - blue 18-14 awg butt splice connector (for AC power wire)
4 - yellow 12-10 awg butt splice connectors (for battery wires)
2 - red 22-18 awg spade lugs (for branch circuits #1 & #2)
7 - yellow 12-10 awg spade lugs (for branch circuits #3 through #9)

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Ok, it's done! The converter is quieter, the charge wizard is blinking fast mode indicating normal mode charging, the 12v fans in the TM are quieter with the filtered DC and only time will tell about the battery life. I can now leave my TM plugged into shore power without fear of cooking the batteries. Now it's time for some LED bulb replacement.

Time investment: 8 hours.

DC output voltage: 13.96v

Pictures will follow.

Mike

[mcgyver210]

Interesting specs I may consider this if mine gives any problems but it is too new to replace now.

Did it fit existing location without modification?
What was cost of this upgrade?
How about some pics.

[Wavery]

Check out this thread on the same upgrade. There is some very interesting info in it:

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=8221

Be sure to read each post as I progressed through the installation of this converter. It's a great converter but to get the total benefit of it, it needs to be mounted very close to the batteries or very large (battery cable type) wires must be installed between the converter and the battery.

[mcgyver210]

I was comparing specs to our WFCO 8955 & they are very close although the crossover for ours is the PD4655. Looks like TM already did a pretty good upgrade on the newer ones.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by mcgyver210

I was comparing specs to our WFCO 8955 & they are very close although the crossover for ours is the PD4655. Looks like TM already did a pretty good upgrade on the newer ones.

Do yourself a favor. Run the batteries down then plug in the converter. Immediately check the voltage and amperage at the converter, then check the voltage and amperage at the batteries. I think that you may be surprised at what you find.

The travel from the converter to the batteries and back is about ~40'. Because of the wire size used, the voltage drop is great. Even if your converter is putting out 14.4V, the batteries may only see ~13.4V. Maintenance charge is even worse. When the converter is putting out a 13.8V maintenance charge, the batteries may only see about 12.9V (due to wire resistance). That is not enough to keep the battery fully charged.

Most people feel that if they put a bigger converter on their camper, it will solve this issue. Not true. It doesn't matter if you have a 15A converter or an 80A converter. It's all about the voltage that's able to make it to the batteries. Amperage has nothing to do with it.

This is why the converter should not be used as a primary source for charging and maintaining the batteries (unless the converter is within a few feet of the batteries and/or the appropriate wire size is used). A "Smart" battery charger hooked directly to the battery bank maintains the batteries better than the best converter that you can buy if the converter is mounted 20' away and only uses 10g wire to handle the current.

That is why I re-mounted my new converter right next to my batteries. I get the full voltage and I get 45A (at full charge) at the batteries. When the same converter was mounted in the back of the trailer, the best that I could get was 25A and when the converter was putting out 14.4V, I was getting 13.4V at the batteries. When my batteries get low, I can get a 90% charge in 2 hours on the generator. That used to take 10 hrs of generator run time when the smaller converter was mounted in the back of the camper. Even then, I could never get a full charge.


That reading is 47.2 amps.
.
.
.
.
.

[mcgyver210]

I saw that & do understand what you are saying I am very surprised TM didn't use a heavier gage wire to compensate for this power drop. I know I used a heavy gage wire for the charge wire directly from the battery on my Rover which seems to help allot when towing.

WOW between upgrades for Cabinet glides, drawers, shower, power, LCD TV Mounts etc. I can't catch up LOL I may have them all done when time for a new TM LOL.

I may go put a meter on mine just to check since it is always setup anyway. If it is a 40' run with lighter wire it may need changed in future. You would think the factory could figure this out though.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by mcgyver210

I saw that & do understand what you are saying I am very surprised TM didn't use a heavier gage wire to compensate for this power drop. I know I used a heavy gage wire for the charge wire directly from the battery on my Rover which seems to help allot when towing.

WOW between upgrades for Cabinet glides, drawers, shower, power, LCD TV Mounts etc. I can't catch up LOL I may have them all done when time for a new TM LOL.

I may go put a meter on mine just to check since it is always setup anyway. If it is a 40' run with lighter wire it may need changed in future. You would think the factory could figure this out though.

The converter wasn't originally meant for charging and maintaining the batteries. They were meant to convert 110v AC to 12v DC, while camping with hook-ups. They are fine for that the way that they are.

You would need to use 2g wire (like the battery cables in the picture above) to keep the voltage loss to a minimum. That would be expensive, heavy and increase the risk of fire in the event of a short (although a fuse would resolve that).

In reality, a 20A converter would be quite adequate for a TM. If you do a lot of dry camping (like we do) the bigger converter helps charge the batteries faster but only if it is properly mounted to get it's full potential.

[mcgyver210]

Although I did survival camping in BSA years ago now my family is Yuppie Campers that most likely will always have full hookups so it will probably never be an issue for us like some of you BoonDockers.

Now those cabinet, shower & tv upgrades we need LOL ROFL