Dumb question about leveling

Ok -- so here's my dumb question about rig leveling: right now, the front end of my 3124kb tilts up a wee bit, on account of my current WD shank (hitchbar) not having sufficient drop. I did make sure that when adjusting the chains, etc. that the front end of my Expedition came down to where it was, eliminating any lift caused by the tongue.

How critical is it to get things perfectly level? I ask because it looks like I'd need to buy another hitchbar with more drop if I want things to be picture perfect.

I'd post a pic of it hitched up but everything's popped up right now whilst I wait for the seal kit for my toilet (blasted flange was leaking -- figured I might as well seal everything while I have it apart).

Thanks!
John

The ONLY reason for being level is for the refrigerator. Because of the gas they use and the necessary design of the system they will damage the refrigerator when operating out of tolerance level. I think the frig will even operate properly with no damage up to about a half a bubble off. If you are not operating the refrigerator then level is no issue at all that I am aware of.

I think the OP is referring to level while towing (hitched to TV with WD bar) versus level when camp is setup.

[Barb&Tim]

How critical is it to get things perfectly level?

Just my opinion here and i'm sure someone here will disagree

It really depends on how much

a wee bit

is. If its fairly close to level, should not be a problem -- i assume nothing is close to dragging anywhere?

Running the Fridge while towing should not be a problem since the trailer will bounce in and out of level as you drive anyway.

Is this with or without being loaded for camping? -- as that may change the level slightly.

Does your rig tow (handle)well with this configuration?

Our trailer is not perfectly level, maybe an inch difference front to rear but is towing well with no noted problems.

I'd have to measure it to be sure, but it was a significant enough difference front to back to make me take notice -- conversely, it towed without any issue, the steering felt "right" (i.e. wasn't any lighter than usual, although in this case I would not have expected it to be), and the back was not even remotely dragging. This was basically unloaded, given I was hauling it back (mostly) empty from the fairgrounds/storage...

I did call Reese today to get their opinion on using 5/8" bolts, and they basically said "it would be better if you didn't" -- so... unless I'm willing to tow with it a bit lopsided, I'm looking at a new hitchbar...

Oh -- and as expected, the front axle and trailer axle were well within tolerances, so no concerns about unusual weight distribution...

Thanks,
John

Decided to go ahead and order a new hitchbar after poking around the Intarwebs a bit more -- just seemed wise to be safe rather than sorry...

Thanks!
John

[Mr. Adventure]

The refrigerator manual has the specs on that we mean by "level" but the floor would feel pretty steep to you if it was a problem. I also think they said you don't have to worry about it when you're moving, but that could have been a previous RV refrigerator I'm remembering.

There are no mechanical issues in towing out of level except for the rear bumper dragging if the tongue is too high and bottoming out on the tongue when the hitch is set too low. Of course, it's always important to get the WDH settings right, too.

Originally Posted by Mr. Adventure

There are no mechanical issues in towing out of level except for the rear bumper dragging if the tongue is too high and bottoming out on the tongue when the hitch is set too low. Of course, it's always important to get the WDH settings right, too.

It seems to me that a difference between the trailer being slightly low or slightly high from level while towing is that air flow may be different. This may cause a modest change in fuel consumption.

It is also my undocumented opinion (aka gossip) that a trailer riding low in the front is slightly more stable than a trailer that is riding slightly high.

For a few inches of difference, I doubt that it matters.

I have scraped the front battery tray twice. I have scraped the rear hitch receiver more times than I want to think about. The battery tray scrapes were measurable in inches. The rear hitch receiver scrapes were measurable in feet. In my situation, towing a bit low has a advantage. This part does not matter for most TM owners, because most TM owners probably do not go where I go. If you don''t have 4WD and a high clearance vehicle, then you definitely won't go where I go.

Pop, what are the advantages in towing a bit low where you go?
Would you rather raise the rear bumper some vs lowering the battery tray, or what?
Just curious to learn from your "off road " experience.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by moaboy

Pop, what are the advantages in towing a bit low where you go?
Would you rather raise the rear bumper some vs lowering the battery tray, or what?
Just curious to learn from your "off road " experience.
Thanks.

There are several reasons why towing slightly low appears to have an advantage:

1. multiple people report that there is a little less wind drag. I can not confirm this. Perhaps an Engineer can.

2. multiple people report that slightly low is a little more stable in adverse conditions than slightly high. I can not confirm this. Perhaps an Engineer can.

3. When crossing a dry creek bed the first thing that happens is the front wheels of my truck drop into the bottom of the creek. This raises the rear bumper of the truck about a foot. That means that the front of the TM raises about a foot. The TM tires are not yet in the creek bed, so the rear of the TM drops, but it drops by less than a foot because the TM axle is set back from center.

As I continue to pull forward the front wheels of the truck begin to climb out of the hole, as the rear of the TM begins to drop over the edge into the hole. This results in the front of the TM being very low. As the battery tray hits the small rocks (softball size) at the bottom of the creek bed the rocks roll around out of the way. If I hang up on a larger rock I can either move the rock or use planks to lift the TM wheel over the top of the rock. I try to tow around these larger rocks but sometimes I can not.

As the truck begins to level out on the other side of the creek bed the tongue of the TM lifts rather high. The rear of the TM is still descending the slope down into the creek bed. This is when the rear hitch receiver begins to dig a trench in the dirt sloping into the creek bed. As long as this trench is not more than about 3 inches deep then the rear plumbing will not scrape the rocks.

If the dirt is not soft enough then the rear hitch receiver does not dig this trench deep enough. This means that the TM wheels are beginning to lift off of the ground.

So now I am in a situation where the TM tongue is about a foot too high, the rear hitch receiver is carrying some of the weight of the rear of the TM and the TM tires are not carrying very much load, because the axle has been unweighted. I am now towing with the TM on 2 points of road contact instead of 3. The weight is on the front hitch and the rear hitch receiver. The TM wheels are outriggers, keeping it stable as it rocks from side to side a bit.

The dirt surface on both sides of the creek bed can best be described by several inches deep talcum powder. The dirt sloping down from this surface into the creek bed is well packed dirt with some rock and some tree roots.

It is prudent to have 4WD when towing any trailer across this creek bed, dry or otherwise. A TM with the wheels not carrying any weight does not roll. You drag it. It is more of a sled.

I have seen 5th wheel trailers on the other side. I did not watch them tow across the creek bed. These 5th wheel trailers have a lot more vertical clearance than a TM does.

The problem when towing across a creek bed, or any other road condition where you drop several feet into a hole and then climb back up to the original height on the other side is the vertical pivoting that occurs at the hitch.

We like this camp sight because there are only two spaces and they are very large. We have had the TM, the ATV trailer, 3 trucks, one passenger car, 3 ATVs, 3 motorcycles, 4 tents in it with room to spare. It is adjacent to a seasonal creek. It is set back far enough from the access road that we do not get any dust.

Recently I have discovered that if I tow with a 2 drop tow ball and cross the creek with a 3 inch drop tow ball that things work out a little better. Using a 3 inch drop tow ball lowers the front of the TM an additional inch. This increases battery tray scraping and reduces scraping by the rear of the TM.

I have modified the front battery tray because I have bent it, but that occurred when crossing over a rise that was in place to divert water across a dirt road.

As a guess, very few people reading this would want to go with me.