unhitching

kncparks · 08-20-2019, 02:36 PM

Hi again friends!
Sorry for so many questions. We have a 2720 and an F150 supercrew. When we want to level front to back and the back is "high," we put stackers under our wheel to level. But then we are unable to get the hitch off of the ball. So then we take the levelers out and are able to unhitch, but then the trailer is not level back to front. Am I missing something? I feel like it's got to be an easy answer, I just don't know what that is.

Thanks again in advance for your input.

**Kidkraz** · 08-20-2019, 04:08 PM

No worries about having questions that's what the forum is for.

When I get to my camping location, and am parked on my site. I disconnect the rig first from my TV, then I level it out front to back, open it and then make any other adjustments. If I were staying overnight and heading further down the road I've left my TM connected to the tow vehicle. If the TM were way out of whack front and back I would disconnect from the TV and get it level before opening.

klpauba · 08-21-2019, 06:13 AM

When arriving at camp, I pull out my Anderson Camper Leveler and put it under the front of the wheel that is lower than the other (based on a bubble level attached to the TM). I then hop back in the car and pull forward until the trailer is level side to side (street to curb). It's then time to chock both sides of the wheels. Once that is done I may disconnect the tow vehicle and, if necessary, use the electric jack to level front to back before extending the stabilizers.

**rickst29** · 08-22-2019, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kncparks

Hi again friends!
Sorry for so many questions. We have a 2720 and an F150 supercrew. When we want to level front to back and the back is "high," we put stackers under our wheel to level. But then we are unable to get the hitch off of the ball.

Klpauba has a lot of really cool things, making me jealous. But if you need to do everything by hand, as I do, the proceed as follows:

#1: back into optimal site location.

#2: set 4 wheel chocks on the Trailer tires (both sides of each tire).

#3: raising the hitch coupler a bit, now disconnect the TV and pull the TV forwards.

#4: I next *LOWER* the front (relative to the rear) by shortening the hitch wheel. (In the situation you described, this is already done, because of the campsite). I now lift and clip in the front shell, with gravity helping.

#5: With the TM rear still high, I "increase" the height of rear TM levelers so that they will reach the ground in a level position, with at least one "stacker" underneath each one. They are hanging in free air at the moment.

#6: I now raise the front by using the hitch lift on it's wheel, with at least one stacker underneath. This sets the rear TM levelers on to their "stackers". I go a bit past level, making it easy to open the rear shell. I lift and clip the rear shell, with gravity assistance.

#7: I now lower the front TM levelers, so that they nearly reach the ground - with at least one "stacker" under each one. (As before, they are hanging with a bit of free air above their stackers, because the front of TM is resting on the hitch lift wheel).

#8: I now lower the hitch, so that the front TM levelers are set on their stackers and the hitch lift wheel has been pulled up into free air. I stow the hitch wheel in the TV, and do "final" TM leveling with the hand crank.

tentcamper · 08-23-2019, 12:13 PM

I also will sometimes have an issue unhitching. What I have found is if the ball is in the back of the coupler pocket it does not want to release. So we try to backup just before stopping. If i'm pulling forward just before I stop I will often have an issue.

FYI most of us will level side-to-side with blocks if needed. Then unhitch and level front to back with the tongue jack.

Peterbug · 08-24-2019, 01:28 PM

KNCPARKS, your description of being unable to unhitch sounds like you are putting upward pressure on your hitch latch before opening the latch. However, others here also mention putting stackers under 'the wheel' in a way that leads me to believe that they are referring to a wheel attached to the tongue jack. Especially when the tongue jack has a wheel, the following order minimizes the risk of movement that can go bad: 1. Chock the tires front and back. 2. Unlatch the tongue (leave safety chains on in case of movement). 3. Raise tongue off of ball. 4. Push and pull on camper to assure some stability. 5. unhook safety chains. 6. Level front to back.
Others here use blocks under the wheels to obtain side to side level, and that requires some estimate of the amount of lift needed from the unlevel position. Those blocks are fine and inexpensive. However, if you don't like that process, there is a handy little leveling tool called a BAL Leveler that allows you to raise one camper tire with fine adjustments, all without having the trailer on the hitch. I have found that to be a handy tool when setting up alone. Here is a link to a video that illustrates:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtnSz8XBILg

kncparks · 09-14-2019, 11:50 PM

I just wanted to let you all know that I appreciate your feedback. My husband was diagnosed with a heart issue right after I posted this and that's why I have not checked in since then. It looks like we will have to wait until next season to even use our TM.

Anyway, I appreciate this forum so very much.

Carole

Larryjb · 09-15-2019, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickst29

...I go a bit past level, making it easy to open the rear shell. I lift and clip the rear shell, with gravity assistance.

Rick, I might suggest that if you feel you need gravity assistance to open a shell, your torsion bars may need adjustment. My front shell was a bear to open and I did need gravity assistance at times. However, I discovered that the torsion bars were not matched to my having an awning, so I had to replace two torsion bars. Once those were in place, I can now lift the front shell with a single hand. The difference was amazing.

Make sure that when the center latches are released, the shell at the middle of the trailer opens up about 6-8" (make sure it's equal each side). If it does not rise enough you need to increase the torsion bar tension on the center torsion bars for the shell.

The shells at the ends (front if it's the front shell, rear for the rear shell) should rise slightly, perhaps an inch. You can adjust the torsion bars at the front for the front shell (rear for the rear shell) to help with the lifting force.

All of this assumes there is no binding and the torsion bars are in good shape. Make sure the screw clamps are in place for the torsion bars underneath the trailer.

__________________________________________________ ____

As for leveling, here's what I do, and it works very well for me:

1) back into spot, lining up the sewer so that the hose will be stretched once connected. (An accordionated hose will flop around when emptying the tanks, making flushing the hose difficult.)

2) Check for side to side level. I use the bubble A frame of the trailer. Add the necessary levelers in front or behind the trailer wheel of the side that is low. Pull the trailer onto the leveler, and recheck the side-to-side level. This doesn't have to be absolutely perfect, but the closer the better.

3) Chock wheels, front and back. (It's embarrassing when your trailer runs away because you are on a slope and forgot this....)

4) Unhitch, park TV.

5) Raise/lower front until bubble level on A frame is centered.

6) Place pads for stabilizers, then lower stabilizers until just touching.

7) Use a 1' level to check front to back on the trailer frame. ("A" frame is usually good enough.) Raise the low corners by lowering the stabilizer for that corner.

8) Use the 1' level on the rear bumper to check for side-to-side.

Either raise the low side by lowering the low-side stabilizer,
or
lower the high side by raising the high-side stabilizer. Check that the pads underneath the stabilizers are firm and cannot be easily kicked out.

9) Recheck side-to-side and front-to-back, making small adjustments.

Note 1: raising one corner will tend to raise the other corner on the other side of the trailer. Don't make changes more than a single turn at a time.
Note 2: don't try to be too perfect. It has to be very close, but trying to achieve perfection can be a waste of valuable camping time! If all 4 stabilizer pads are firm, the TM opens easily without binding, all doors line up well, and you're not feeling like you're drunk walking around inside your trailer, your leveling is good.

**B_and_D** · 09-15-2019, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kncparks

I just wanted to let you all know that I appreciate your feedback. My husband was diagnosed with a heart issue right after I posted this and that's why I have not checked in since then. It looks like we will have to wait until next season to even use our TM.

Anyway, I appreciate this forum so very much.

Carole

So sorry to hear that, hope he finds the right medical care and gets better so that you can go camping in your TM!

D'

Marklee · 10-05-2019, 10:54 AM

Comment above from Peterbug: "

However, if you don't like that process, there is a handy little leveling tool called a BAL Leveler that allows you to raise one camper tire with fine adjustments, all without having the trailer on the hitch. I have found that to be a handy tool when setting up alone. Here is a link to a video that illustrates: https://www.youtube.com/watch?"v=PtnSz8XBILg[/QUOTE]

We just purchased and tried out the BAL leveler. Unfortunately, we couldn't get it to slide around the wheel. We have 14" wheels, within the range called out on the box, but the device just seemed too narrow. I don't know if being parked on grass made a difference?

Any suggestions?