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Old 06-27-2016, 11:56 AM   #1
Raybird
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Default No 12V after shore power disconnect

Hello fellow TM owners! First ever posting...

We have a 2008 2720SL with a power problem. We get 12V from the AC-to-DC converter when hooked up to shore power. When disconnected from the AC, there's no 12V -- except for what's coming from the solar panel. No sun, no 12V.

The battery tests ok. All the fuses check okay in the converter. Both of the fuses test okay in the solar charge controller. I'm stumped. Wiring problem? Anyone have some clues?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Ray / Dunedin, FL
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:50 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Raybird View Post
Hello fellow TM owners! First ever posting...

We have a 2008 2720SL with a power problem. We get 12V from the AC-to-DC converter when hooked up to shore power. When disconnected from the AC, there's no 12V -- except for what's coming from the solar panel. No sun, no 12V.

The battery tests ok. All the fuses check okay in the converter. Both of the fuses test okay in the solar charge controller. I'm stumped. Wiring problem? Anyone have some clues?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Ray / Dunedin, FL
There is a fuse coming off the positive terminal of the battery which is the 12v feed for the whole trailer. Sounds like it's blown and you didn't mention this. Sometimes it's located in the battery box. It is a 30 amp in-line glass type fuse on most TM's (or it was on mine). I replaced it with a circuit breaker so if it blows, I won't have to find a replacement fuse. I'll just flip the breaker back on. Check that fuse....I bet that's it.
Tom
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:10 PM   #3
Bill
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From your description, Tom is almost certainly right. Check out this picture.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=760
If you have the fuseholder on the left, you should know that the fuse occasionally pops for no apparent reason. And if the ends of the fuseholder are brown, it means that the thing has overheated, again for no apparent reason, and this made the fuse pop. At any rate, whenever you get the chance, you should remove this cylindrical fuseholder and replace it with the blade-type automotive holder on the right. A breaker is also a nice choice. This is not a panic-right-now item, but should be done when convenient.

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Old 06-27-2016, 01:16 PM   #4
Raybird
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Thanks Tom for the quick reply. Well, I'm little embarrassed... I checked that fuse. It was okay. But apparently the battery connections (which looked perfectly fine) had some hidden corrosion under the terminals. A little cleanup and woila! Duh. We got DC. Sorry for shaking the bushes for no reason. Thanks again. --Ray Oh, also thanks to Bill for his reply. Good advice.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:34 PM   #5
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Thumbs up sure, that's what this is for....

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Originally Posted by Raybird View Post
Thanks Tom for the quick reply. Well, I'm little embarrassed... I checked that fuse. It was okay. But apparently the battery connections (which looked perfectly fine) had some hidden corrosion under the terminals. A little cleanup and woila! Duh. We got DC. Sorry for shaking the bushes for no reason. Thanks again. --Ray Oh, also thanks to Bill for his reply. Good advice.
If you do put the blade type fuse holder in you might also get a blade type auto re-setting 30 amp circuit breaker that will fit into that holder. http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Amp-Blade...8AAOSwv0tVWuE9
At any rate, you should have a couple of extra fuses on hand just in case. As for the terminals, there is some spray on terminal protectorate that will keep the corrosion at bay. Any auto parts store or dept. will have this. Get some and dose your battery terminals on your TM and your tow vehicle. The old "once of prevention" thang..... ....
Happy Trails(manoring)
Tom
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:28 PM   #6
Raybird
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Never realized something like this existed. Nice find and great advice. I'm ordering one pronto. Thanks!
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