Toilet dump valve

Wavery · 03-09-2010, 10:46 PM

OK..... I'm on a mission......

New Mod.........

I have an idea for a release lever for the inside toilet dump valve lever. You know.....the one on the front of the toilet that you pull (or should pull

) before folding up the trailer.

I wanted to bounce this idea off of others. This is what I am thinking of:

1. Drill 1" hole in the floor, just below and forward of the flush valve.
2. Install a lever bracket on the floor (or under the floor), just below the valve handle.
3. Put a 8" x 1" x 1/8" flat bar up through the hole.
4. Remove valve handle and attach the top of the flat bar.
5. Attach the center of the flat bar to the lever pivot bracket (#2)
5. Attach a 1/4" rod 2' long to the bottom of the flat bar and extend it to the outside of the trailer.

Theory....... Pull the rod from the outside of the trailer to open valve on the bottom of the toilet. Push the rod in, to close the valve.

What do you think?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-09-2010, 11:24 PM

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a "lever bracket", and how exactly you are going to get ~4 inches of travel on the slide valve through a 1" hole. Can you draw something, even if it's on a piece of paper and you then take a photo of it?

I presume that you are planning for your 2-foot 1/4" rod to go UNDER the trailer floor (as in exposed to the road) vs. through the wall to clear the shells when closed, correct? How are you going to seal around the hole and still allow rod movement?

My slide valve under the toilet has always required a bit of gusto to open/close, and I've even replaced the seals on it. I have never used any seal lube though, so perhaps that is the reason. But it may be a bit trickier using a lever like you are proposing.

Dave

Wavery · 03-10-2010, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a "lever bracket", and how exactly you are going to get ~4 inches of travel on the slide valve through a 1" hole. Can you draw something, even if it's on a piece of paper and you then take a photo of it?

I presume that you are planning for your 2-foot 1/4" rod to go UNDER the trailer floor (as in exposed to the road) vs. through the wall to clear the shells when closed, correct? How are you going to seal around the hole and still allow rod movement?

My slide valve under the toilet has always required a bit of gusto to open/close, and I've even replaced the seals on it. I have never used any seal lube though, so perhaps that is the reason. But it may be a bit trickier using a lever like you are proposing.

Dave

Lever bracket = fulcrum. Just 2 "L' brackets, with a hole in them for a bolt through the lever to act as the pivot.

The hole in the floor would actually be elongated some and I'm thinking the "Fulcrum" brackets would need to be under the floor for additional throw length. It would be easily sealed with a rubber boot or just a seal with a slot in it, attached to the under side of the floor. I don't think sealing is a big issue though (at least in SoCal).

There would need to be a slot in the upper part of the bracket, where the valve rod attaches to make up for the throw of the rod.......it is doable......

03-10-2010, 08:03 AM

Wayne

If you want a more exotic solution, there are electrically operated slide valves available or you can just add a electrically operated actuator to the existing valve. You may have to turn it sideways and mount part of it under the sink, but it would be slick.

MudDog · 03-10-2010, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rumbleweed

Wayne

If you want a more exotic solution, there are electrically operated slide valves available or you can just add a electrically operated actuator to the existing valve. You may have to turn it sideways and mount part of it under the sink, but it would be slick.

link That would be slick....not sure how hard it would be to replace the existing toilet valve (imagine some of the plastic base would need to be re-worked)?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-10-2010, 09:06 AM

That is an interesting idea, although it goes against the KISS principle.

The Thetford valve is a little special, but I'm sure one could retrofit an electric valve to the bottom of the toilet. Or, perhaps it would be easier to install a small motor in front of the existing valve, but still under the toilet, to operate the valve. Mount a disc of some sort to the motor with a bar screwed to the edge of it, and the motor now produces in-n-out movement for the valve. You've got power right there already to run the motor, so that is not an issue, and no thru-hull holes.

Dave

Wavery · 03-10-2010, 10:40 AM

The electric one looks neat. However, that's not much of a challenge

.

We will be camping tomorrow through Monday so I'll have plenty of time to think about it......

03-10-2010, 11:12 AM

Haven't check but the outlet side of the existing dump valve might be a standard mount, You could add the electric dump valve in series with that and maybe avoid messing with the Thetford itself. Another option is to add another dump valve either manual or electric directly under the TM in the 3" dump line for the Thetford. It would mean a slightly larger initial charge, but the small amount of water ( etc) in the connecting piece should not effect operation. Only concern is it is not in the TM itself and might freeze if you do a lot of cold weather camping.

03-13-2010, 09:30 PM

How about a cable similar to those used on lawn mowers that can push and pull? You can see what I am suggesting on ebay as a lawnmower throttle cable. I would like to find something a little heavier to get the push pull needed.

Only need a 3/8th hole and a guide to make a 90 degree bend behind the shut off.

Currently I just pull the inside valve and connect the hose on the outside before pulling outside valve.

If anyone tries this before I do then keep me updated!